I agree with mike on a couple things, 4.6 blaa blaa been done, 351 and a chinee hair dryer? blaa blaa been done, now a 5.0 and a m112, custom intake with other backyard built crap that can fry the tires with 10 lbs of pressure stuffed into it, that is not blaa blaa anywhere you look. Only a few can pull that off and your on that list, fix the engine, turn on the ac and enjoy the ride.
All the unique in the world doesn't change the fact the a stock block 5.0 was never intended to handle 500 ft lbs of torque. Couple that to the fact that that Eaton probably doesn't like compressing water/meth, was already showing him fuel distribution issues, and upping the boost requires a new belt and pulley (s) and one way or the other, this space ship is gonna end up with " Houston,.....we have a problem".
Hell for that matter he can keep the Eaton on the 351, but that would require making intake manifold spacers to adapt the current intake, and some new bracketry on the front. In the end, compared to the fabrication to make the turbo work, it may be the lesser of two evils. But In my experience, adapters and spacers where oil/water/and air move past increases the potential for a leak of one, or more of any of the three.
A 351 crank is capable enough stock to just prep it and leave it in the block. Better Rods are cheap enough...
300 bucks.
Another 500 gets him a .030 + set of 4030 alloy forged Pistons, pins, locks, and rings..
I'd just about challenge anybody here that I could build this engine short block for the price of a bare Dart block, and have new bearings, timing chain, oil pump, pan, and machine work all in.
*edit...for another 300 bucks, the intake adapter is already out there..
The chassis can be dramatically stiffened with a good set of SF connectors like what I, Dave, and the other guy that overbuilds things have done. Add a side to side floor brace, that ties each side together and you will dramatically stiffen the car.
A roll bar (not cage) in a street car makes for even better side to side stiffness..But add door bars....and you'll hate yourself for doing it. Swing out bars are noisy, dangerous, and the fact that they aren't solid offers jack when compared to the solid versions. Low bars are better than nothing, but anything you do to make it a more safe drag car, makes it a less safe street car.
( drag cars don't typically get t boned at intersections,....t boned door bars make for really good broken legs, and hips.)
Brake upgrades on a street car are overkill....how many times have you been on the street in your present car, where your existing brakes failed to stop your car?
The only reason I upgraded my brakes was because I wanted 5 lug wheels, and it made sense to switch to a bigger brake as a byproduct.