Progress Thread “Rising from Ashes 2” 95 Saleen S-351 build
- Thread starter 95steedamustang
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
- 570
- 145
- 74
This is kind of like watching a 1:25 scale model car get assembled. You need to hang up a Monogram or AMT banner in your shop. 
Are those spherical UCA bushings in the axle to the left of the car? If so, how streetable are they?
Are those spherical UCA bushings in the axle to the left of the car? If so, how streetable are they?
Thanks man. Good idea.This is kind of like watching a 1:25 scale model car get assembled. You need to hang up a Monogram or AMT banner in your shop.
Are those spherical UCA bushings in the axle to the left of the car? If so, how streetable are they?
those bushings work good in straight line cars but I just use them in rear ends that won’t require bushings for upper arms because upper arms aren’t used with a torque arm
Application which this car will have. It’s the easy to remove and use in another rear end that I like
This was a tough one but still... I think I like it.
Needed to drop an unnecessary verb for space sake. 
SorsCode
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I bought a bunch of NOS. Sets years ago. Then I took several used sets out of wrecked ones and refinished them for future projects
WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
- 570
- 145
- 74
VERY NICE! Painted or powder coat? In either case, how did you prep the cover?
I have a new Ford racing cover sitting on the shelf to go on when I tear into the 8.8, but the casting surface is just rough and porous aluminum that I know it will get dirty and uglied up in no time with normal road / track driving. Would you have any suggestions on the best way to coat it, even a clear coat to keep the cast look staying clean?
I have a new Ford racing cover sitting on the shelf to go on when I tear into the 8.8, but the casting surface is just rough and porous aluminum that I know it will get dirty and uglied up in no time with normal road / track driving. Would you have any suggestions on the best way to coat it, even a clear coat to keep the cast look staying clean?
Sanded it with 80 grit, 150 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, 600 grit and smoothed all the stuff your talking about. Then painted black base. 6 coats clear. Let it cure, sanded with 400 grit. Then did the extra painted stuff. Then cleared the whole thing again with 7 coats of clear. In short. If you want stuff to look this way it’s all grunt and hand work. Can u clear it as is....No. Clear will flake off if not properly prepped and sanded prior to
WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
- 570
- 145
- 74
Thanks for the run-down on the process! I sort of guessed that it would be a lot of sanding and paint coats.
No problem. The easiest thing to do to make it look good and last is have someone sandblast and Powdercoat it. The blasting will knock a lot of the rough off and the powder will fill the imperfections better
Ask the janitor. He mentioned something about verbs or adjectives or some other english class crap
Getting suspension together. The upper mounts and red springs are only temporary until I get the torque arm and springs coated in yellow
Steel1
Mustang Master
OK so the paint job on your diff cover looks better than most of our cars.....hooray for you !! lolRear end cover done
Your attention to detail is unreal , amazing.
