75 help

Discussion in '1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech' started by 75_2+2, Jul 15, 2009.

  1. About the switch, yea I did turn it left and right too. It does turn the dome light on and off but.......still no instrument lights.

    I also bought a switch (just in case it's the culprit).
  2. About the bogging issue, it's definitely the carb (jets). We poured fuel additive and about 2 gallons of racing fuel and took her for a drive. Now, we hit 60 with no problem just cruising around.

    She still bogs though at WOT. I'll drive it around and see if the additive does the trick before taking the carb down.
  3. Have you checked the fuel pump? You may have enough to keep her going, but not enough psi when you open it up. I had that prob, and if I drove for a half hour or so, it would just quit. If it purs at idle, carb may not be too bad. But it could be the accelerator pump on the carb as well if it bogs when you ask for it too.
  4. Hmmmm might as well replace the carb and fuel pump all together to eliminate the guessing game. What do you think? :rolleyes:
  5. I'd start with the fuel pump if anything, cheap and easy fix. Of course, all the rubber in the carb will be the next to go. But kits are cheap and easy. The first ride of my King was under the hood pouring fuel down the carb to get her out of the pasture it was sitting in for 8 years. I bolted in a used pump, which sort of worked, but that one had been sitting for some time as well, but it was handy at the time. But congrats on the car, very nice shape! I would try to keep her original as possible. Good luck and welcome to the fun but sometimes frustrating world of the mustang II!:nice:
  6. Wow! That's a beauty! Looks like all you need are some center caps for your wheels and speaker grills and its ready for showing!
  7. Thanks!! I did get some center caps from ebay and put them on. However, one is a little flimsy and I'm afraid to lose it if I hit a bump on the road or something.

    Yea, I don't have the speaker grills but I do have the carpet pieces that were cut out to install the speakers.

    I just bought a new fuel pump and carb as well and will be installing them this weekend. :D
  8. If you want to keep the speakers, check with some MII suppliers or eBay and purchase the factory speaker covers.

    Otherwise you should be able to pull the door panels off and tape the carpet pieces in from the back side. A little brushing of the carpet fibers and the cuts will just about disappear.
  9. Speaker covers for the II were also used in other models.

    While factory installed covers were color matched to the interior the factory replacement covers I bought from Ford came in black, as far as I know that was the only color they came in. Which was a **** back in the day because there weren't paints readily available that adhered well to plastic.
  10. Like what i mentioned, I bought a carb. However, I bought a Weber 32/36 which I thought was similar to the Holley 5200 that came stock with the car. Boy was I wrong!!!

    The throttle is inverted in the carb! I mean the throttle cable from the car pulls while the carb pushes. We installed it and soon as we started it, it revved so high.

    Darn it, is there a way to make this work or do I have to get a rebuild kit for the 5200 instead???? How do I get to the jets on the 5200, do I just take the top off?
  11. Try adding an equal length lever on the other side if you want to keep the Weber.
    But it's not too hard to rebuild the original carb.
    And I have also seen them on ebay.

    Attached Files:

  12. Sorry for my ignorance but can you please be more specific with what you mean? :D
  13. Attach the linkage so that the throttle plates open when the linkage arm pulls. The accelerator arm or cable pulls the throttle plates inside the carb to an open position.
    In your case, the plates are being closed when the cable or arm is pulled, and wide open when at rest.
    This will be reversed when the cable or arm is at the opposite side(180 deg.) of the axle/pivot rod that goes thru the throttle plates themselves.
    Simple and basic mechanical leverage laws of physics.
    See my attached simple diagram.
  14. Ok folks, here's an update:

    We changed the fuel pump, rebuilt the carb took her for a drive and STILL bogs at 30 - 40mph. What I can think of next is the catalytic converter or all the emission equipment.

    She did sit for 24 years in the garage and I'm not sure if all that carbon settled in there?????!!!!!

    Any more suggestions before I pull out the saw and start cutting that cat.
  15. Plugged converter would fit the scenario.

    If it isn't being driven it isn't making carbon,

    But there was still leaded fuels around a quarter century ago.

    I hope you mean removing the Cat in one piece as, depending where you live and where you drive the car, you may need to put the/a Cat back on (even if it's had the guts punched out of it). Or, you know, you could always replace the Cat ... $$$
  16. I'm in CA and the car being 75 doesn't require emission testing. Are there other emission stuff that I can remove?
  17. Most likely, the cat is clogged. Get rid of it. If it has an egr, then it can go also, just make sure you plug the holes.

    I didn't see you say what engine it has..

    Either its a 2.3l 4 cyl or 2.8l or 2.9l v-6.

    good luck
  18. From watching Cali from this distance you may want to take many pictures before you remove anything, and you may want to save anything you remove because, well, you know. The Wind of Emission Testing may change direction. :shrug:

    I'm keeping Cats on my cars because in the past I've had out of state LEOs enforce their laws on my Ohio plated cars, and I've had out of state LEOs enforce Ohio laws on my car(s),

    I figure I will dodge a bunch of the BS if I keep things so they will pass a cursory visual.

    Just throwing this out for consideration.

    The EGR but some say there is a potential for detonation problems, and the PVC but then it will run a bit rich, but both these can be attended to by jetting, but then OTOH it's not like stock mid '70s engines ran on a fine tune at the razors edge of self destruction .... :rlaugh:

    Just keep in mind that during the II era with the exception of the EGR, PVC and Carb Heat the plumbing and heat operated valves were emissions controls to manage the engine during cold start and warm up. There were also some deceleration controls on some engines (I don't know about/ if they were on any II) so WTF, are they really needed? Not really.

    Short answer: Should be OK long as you have a Vac Advance.