My stang was pained about 9 years ago with the old style enamel paint. How can I make it look a little better. It sat outside for a while and looks pretty bad now. I cant afford to have it repainted so I thought maybe you guys would know some tricks for making it look a little better...thanks in advance...
Bring older paint back to life...
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xoxbxfx
Founding Member
a PROFESSIONAL buff would do pretty well. Im to big of a baby to do it myself with the worry of burning through anything... Id leave it up to the pros. You can do amazing stuff with old paint
If you were local to me, Id highly recommend my buddy Nick...heres a couple pics of his work
to
[/QUOTE]
good same angle shot:
[/QUOTE]
A 69 Camaro:
Here are couple of good close ups...
View attachment 387573
to
same angle:
[/QUOTE]
If you were local to me, Id highly recommend my buddy Nick...heres a couple pics of his work
to
good same angle shot:
A 69 Camaro:
Here are couple of good close ups...
View attachment 387573
to
same angle:
geostang351
Member
That camaro is not a repaint???? WOW!
How did he repair the large missing paint areas on the passenger fender?
How did he repair the large missing paint areas on the passenger fender?
xoxbxfx
Founding Member
not a repaint...I think that big spot you are reffering to is actually a huge waterspot.
geostang351
Member
Can he/you post the procedure on how to buff a car/paint? I never know how to apply the compound (by hand or buffer) what pad to use when and what speed. A write up on this would be SWEET!
CarFreakGT
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
DITTO. My car is not near ready for a re-paint--too much other stuff to do. But, I would love to look into buffing it out. Just a little scared to try, since I've never done it before.
xoxbxfx
Founding Member
I'll ask him..but Im going to say its his trade secret. He does this for a living (well it suppliments his aircraft mechanic gig). Check Maguiers forums, he posts on there all the time. Heck, hes actually on the front page of Meguiers website
Well..he was...heres the forums link. Dont know where his posts arehttp://meguiarsonline.com/
xoxbxfx
Founding Member
good thread on Maguiars site about doing some work
http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10293&page=2&highlight=camaro
http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10293&page=2&highlight=camaro
geostang351
Member
I'll ask him..but Im going to say its his trade secret. He does this for a living (well it suppliments his aircraft mechanic gig). Check Maguiers forums, he posts on there all the time. Heck, hes actually on the front page of Meguiers website
http://meguiarsonline.com/
I won't take any of his business I promise. Just want to learn.
I've read may sites, watched lots of how-to's on TV but still there is never a complete, informative way to do this. See what you can do for a fellow stanger!
:SNSign: :SNSign: i've done that kind of amazing stuff too. i used to own a detail shop, so i got a bunch of crap in like that. in fact i just did my 93 jeep last week that i haven't even washed in almost 2 years, looks better than the day i got it and it had a repaint shortly before i got it too.
the trick is to do it in steps. heaviest compund to lightest compound, glaze, the wax. i use 2 different waxes, first carnuaba wax then i follow that with a sealer wax.
on some cars you may find that it will need to be color sanded and the buffed, especially on really oxidized metaliics. this step is the worst by far. use the lightest grit paper you can to get the job done. i usually use around 1500 grit to start and adjust from there.
it doesn't look like your car will need to be color sanded or even need a very heavy compound, in fact you might able to do it with just a glaze, then wax it really good.
the trick is to do it in steps. heaviest compund to lightest compound, glaze, the wax. i use 2 different waxes, first carnuaba wax then i follow that with a sealer wax.
on some cars you may find that it will need to be color sanded and the buffed, especially on really oxidized metaliics. this step is the worst by far. use the lightest grit paper you can to get the job done. i usually use around 1500 grit to start and adjust from there.
it doesn't look like your car will need to be color sanded or even need a very heavy compound, in fact you might able to do it with just a glaze, then wax it really good.
I dont have any kind of buffer or anything and it would probably kill you to do it by hand. I may try to borrow one or try a spot by hand first. My car has some places that are rusting through but mainly are nickel to quater sized with maybe two places that are 3-4 inches. I just want to make it a little more presentable while I drive it this summer without a repaint. what kind of glaze or whatever would you recommend first. I am going to try by hand forst so what would be best for that?
xoxbxfx
Founding Member
geostang351
Member
xoxbxfx
Founding Member
I emailed ya back... great thing is...He comes to you
But you will be on a waiting list because that kid is BUSYif you're going to do it by by hand you need some no.7 brand rubbing compound, it comes in a green and white can like a paste wax, they have a rubbing compound and a polishing compound you'll need the rubbing compound but you can use both if want.
geostang351
Member
how do you apply the compound? With a cloth on paint or on the buffing pad then turn on and make a mess? squeeze on in squiggly lines or apply and rub in with cloth?
the number 7 brand is a paste so use a good terry cloth or microfiber applicator pad. and wipe it off with a microfiber towel.
if you are talking about using a buffer, i put little dots all over and do one panel at a time. i use a wool pad for the harsher compounds and most of the glazes. i use a foam pad for wax and the polymer glazes. some compunds require a foam pad so you need to see what is recommended for the specific product.
buffring a car is messy, i generally will give it a quick wash afterwards if so needed, but it's not always needed.
if you are talking about using a buffer, i put little dots all over and do one panel at a time. i use a wool pad for the harsher compounds and most of the glazes. i use a foam pad for wax and the polymer glazes. some compunds require a foam pad so you need to see what is recommended for the specific product.
buffring a car is messy, i generally will give it a quick wash afterwards if so needed, but it's not always needed.
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