yes its the exact same circuit just controlled from a different output. and wired to the solenoid.Are you using a circuit similar to the one I use for boost duty?
yes its the exact same circuit just controlled from a different output. and wired to the solenoid.Are you using a circuit similar to the one I use for boost duty?
Well im doing it to set the flow amount by rpm, I bought a solenoid from prometh that is meant for that application to be pulsed at 25hz for up to 20mins. So this should not happen again.Personally, I don't think pulsing a big assed solenoid is a good practice. Nitrous systems have been using that practice for years now, and there are a lot of bad reviews to their detriment. The solenoids get hot, current draw changes as a result, impedance changes and things cook.
Just open the solenoid when you want the water to flow, and shut the thing when you want it to stop.
Yeah but you think your circuit failed And burned up a transistor.Well im doing it to set the flow amount by rpm, I bought a solenoid from prometh that is meant for that application to be pulsed at 25hz for up to 20mins. So this should not happen again.
I use it to keep temps down, the car is not tuned on the meth. the meth is just another safety cushion.... when the temps start to come up [and they do] I have it set to start pulling timing in scads.Yeah but you think your circuit failed And burned up a transistor.
The very first time I cooked a circuit trying to do something that resulted in the stuff that keeps my engine out of detonation to stop flowing would be the last time I test out that theory.
In my case it's both. I'll be content to just opening and closing the thing.I use it to keep temps down, the car is not tuned on the meth. the meth is just another safety cushion.... when the temps start to come up [and they do] I have it set to start pulling timing in scads.
dont worry when you do the MS3 upgrade there is a whole section in there just for Wmeth injection so we can set a whole bunch of parameters.In my case it's both. I'll be content to just opening and closing the thing.
The only thing I'd change is triggering the thing at a higher throttle percentage ( possibly a higher boost # too) to keep it from dumping a buttload of water into the engine when all I'm trying to do is get on the interstate. I thought I added a variable, and included TPS percentage into the circuit equation, ( and maybe I did) but my engine gets into boost w/o any throttle it seems.
I depend on the stuff.
That's only 50 volts PIV rated. Almost any inductive load will generate more than that when it is open circuited and the magnetic field collapses.Yes a 1n4001
That's only 50 volts PIV rated. Almost any inductive load will generate more than that when it is open circuited and the magnetic field collapses.
A 1N4004 (400 V PIV) is a better choice for an inductive snubber.
See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode for more information.
Sorry I didn't quite get that...[CHAT=][/CHAT]
Meh.......I can’t say that I even know what the hell happened there.Sorry I didn't quite get that...
For the benefit of those of us not in tune with the same interstellar network as you, please explain...
Sorry I didn't quite get that...
For the benefit of those of us not in tune with the same interstellar network as you, please explain...
No problem, I wish i could have gotten away with just changing the connectors to ev6 by crimping on new terminals and building each connector. Some of my injectors need the extra length in the harness so splicing on a pre-made pigtail made the most sense.
I have no idea how many pins need to be moved on the extension harness yet so i will try and document that as well as i can for you.
Maybe when i do the full MS3X upgrade and move to COP ect ect....As a temporary measure while you build a new harness from scratch?