I hear these 5.0s run hot...

The links in my first post would have helped you with some of this stuff.

The OEM fan is a two-speed unit.

The WOT relay is in the CCRM. The power to the AC clutch passes through the N.C. and common terminals at rest. The only time the relay is active is if you're at WOT.
 
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Sorry, my assumption. Do you agree with my assumption? I'll be really testing it this weekend.

I try not to guess or make assumptions, especially when it comes to expensive parts (CCRM's are not cheap). Five minutes of testing will really narrow things down for ya. Then you can feel pretty good about things and not kick yourself if the new part is *not* the solution.

The fan circuit is kind of complex (the EDF monitor throws a variable into the mix) and there are several things which can cause an issue like yours.

Once you know what's going on exactly, we can also help you rig up fan switches or circumvent the issue probably.

Good luck Sal.
 
I try not to guess or make assumptions, especially when it comes to expensive parts (CCRM's are not cheap). Five minutes of testing will really narrow things down for ya. Then you can feel pretty good about things and not kick yourself if the new part is *not* the solution.

The fan circuit is kind of complex (the EDF monitor throws a variable into the mix) and there are several things which can cause an issue like yours.

Once you know what's going on exactly, we can also help you rig up fan switches or circumvent the issue probably.

Good luck Sal.

Thanks for the explanation. I was curious if you know what and where I should start testing. I really think the CCRM may be biting the dust. Is there a wiring diagram that I can go off of that would show me what to test on the CCRM?

Thanks for all the wonderful information so far! Thanks again
 
HOLY CRAP!!:jaw: This sounds exactly like the problem I'm having now! Car just started doing this same thing today! It usually never went past O on the NORMAL and all day today it was between M and A and sometimes on A. Coolant is good, thermostat opens and fan still kicks on. But I didn't even know that it was a two speed fan. The fan never kicked on till it hit the A. Could that mean that the low speed is not workin?

Sorry SableSal....seems like I keep jumping in your threads! lol
 
HOLY CRAP!!:jaw: This sounds exactly like the problem I'm having now! Car just started doing this same thing today! It usually never went past O on the NORMAL and all day today it was between M and A and sometimes on A. Coolant is good, thermostat opens and fan still kicks on. But I didn't even know that it was a two speed fan. The fan never kicked on till it hit the A. Could that mean that the low speed is not workin?

Sorry SableSal....seems like I keep jumping in your threads! lol

Low speed come on at about 220*F and stays on until temp drops to 200*F. Hi fan is on at about 230*F or when the A/C is on and vehicle speed is less than 48 mph.

Another fact with the OEM T-stat is its operating characteristics. It starts to open between 188-195F and isn't fully open until 212*F. The Ford gauge spec position is between the mid and upper portion. This according to Ford puts the normal operating temp in the 205* - 220* range.

This to many seems high but those are the specs from the Ford service CD.
 
Ok, well I replaced the thermostat with a 195 degree tstat. I drove it there on after and it seems to be pretty good. Although it still doesn't hold a steady temp which leads me to believe that the fans are still having an issue. I will be driving the car all next week and I'll report my findings.

I still am going to pick up a CCRM as I do believe my A/C concern is in direct correlation with this component. Anyhow, I can get a used one for $55.00.

Anyhow, I'll let you guys know what I find! Thanks again for all the great input!
 
Ok so I went to go see Davis3 today and we checked a couple of things and are pretty certain that the CCRM is still in decent shape. I've come to the conclusion that I should get an aftermarket gauge and stop messing with this factory gauge.

I also got the chance to take a good look at the A/C issue. I think I need a compressor... I DO have power going to the compressor. The clutch does not kick on at all. I tried adding a bit of freon and it wouldn't take it in. I bypassed the low pressure switch. The fans turn on, but nothing as far as the clutch on the compressor.

Im thinking I'm replacing the compressor really soon.




Sal
 
Damn man...looks like your running out of options!

I'm gettin confused with mine now...everything is workin like it's supposed to. Fan kicks on both speeds and I'm not gettin any temp. codes. I get home from school (at around mid-night) and can smell antifreeze outside the car. Pop the hood and there is no antifreeze anywhere!! Why the hell would I smell burnin anitfreeze and not find any puddles, wet spots or even a steamy, smokey effect anywhere??
 
Damn man...looks like your running out of options!

I'm gettin confused with mine now...everything is workin like it's supposed to. Fan kicks on both speeds and I'm not gettin any temp. codes. I get home from school (at around mid-night) and can smell antifreeze outside the car. Pop the hood and there is no antifreeze anywhere!! Why the hell would I smell burnin anitfreeze and not find any puddles, wet spots or even a steamy, smokey effect anywhere??
You and I are in the same boat...
 
Damn man...looks like your running out of options!

I'm gettin confused with mine now...everything is workin like it's supposed to. Fan kicks on both speeds and I'm not gettin any temp. codes. I get home from school (at around mid-night) and can smell antifreeze outside the car. Pop the hood and there is no antifreeze anywhere!! Why the hell would I smell burnin anitfreeze and not find any puddles, wet spots or even a steamy, smokey effect anywhere??

You are either burning coolant, your radiator is cracked or your hose clamps aren't tight enough. The latter two would not let the coolant get up to 16psi, thus making the coolant get hotter faster. Are you loosing coolant? Pop the radiator cap and make sure your radiator isn't half empty.

I'd also recommend a coolant pressure test. I would lend you mine id you were in Los Angeles, but that commute is a killer. :D
 
You are either burning coolant, your radiator is cracked or your hose clamps aren't tight enough. The latter two would not let the coolant get up to 16psi, thus making the coolant get hotter faster. Are you loosing coolant? Pop the radiator cap and make sure your radiator isn't half empty.

I'd also recommend a coolant pressure test. I would lend you mine id you were in Los Angeles, but that commute is a killer. :D

Well thanks! :lol: I'll have to check that out. Gonna get a new cap and thermostat for it here in the next couple days and see what that does.