Motor Mounts on 65 289

[notny41]

Did some searching on this and couldn't find my answer.

I should probably just buy a manual but you guys are so good and willing to answer my questions! I really appreciate all of the responses I get from this forum.

I have what appears to be a bad motor mount on my passenger side. To the best of my knowledge my mounts are the "post" type not the "ear" type.

1. Can the average person replace motor mounts?

2. Is there anywhere on the engine case that you can put a jack under?

3. Do you have to disconnect anything before lifting the motor up high enough to get the old one out and the new one in?

4. I have the part on order - what should this cost me if I have to take it somewhere to have it done?

Thanks guys!

P.S. - I live in the Minneapolis area if anyone wants to volunteer to help me with this!

 

[302 coupe]

you're lucky to have the post type mounts, the other ones are complete junk. You should have been able to order the mounts over the counter at most parts stores, we used to sell them for around $10. What I do is use a 2x6 peice of wood under the sump on the oil pan, let the jack push on the wood to avoid crushing the pan. You should have enough room to lift the engine 2" or so to remove and replace the broken mount. Be sure to unbolt the other mount to avoid tearing it. You should be able to handle it yourself in less than an hour.

If you have a fan shroud, check to make sure the fan won't hit it when the engine is jacked up. You shouldn't need to disconnect anything, just lift the engine slowly and keep an eye on things. Good luck.

 

[notny41]

Thanks 302!

I ended up getting the part from autozone with tax and shipping for about $10.35.

Is that oil pan is strong enough to lift the engine up? It must be if you've done it before. Those things must be made of some thick sheet metal.

Is it easiest to get at the nuts from the top of the engine compartment or from underneath?

 

[notny41]

I heard from a neighbor that he puts a 2x4 under the bolts that hold the oilpan on and jack on the 2x4.

I think I can get a bottle jack to lift right on one of the bolts that hold the oilpan on. I might put some wood in there just so I don't marr up the bolt.

P

 

[1320stang]

Are we talking cast mounts verses the steel mounts? The cast mounts are what I consider the post type and raise the engine about an 1" and are prone to breakage in a souped up car. the later mounts are steel and about an 1" lower than the cast ones and are much stronger. 302, are we talking about the same type mounts? The cast mounts are up to early '66 and the steel ones are late '66 and on.

 

[Max Power]

Don't forget to loosen the tranny mount before jacking too.

 

[notny41]

Mine have the rubber and the post and I would say they are probably the cast mounts based on your description. I'm guessing the one I am replacing is an original as the rubber on it is pretty crusty.

Got the bolts and nut off (as well as the one nut on the opposite side) and the engine jacked up a little and am ready for my new part to arrive so I can put it on. That is one of the easier things I have had to do on the car.

Thanks guys!

 

[302 coupe]

Are we talking cast mounts verses the steel mounts? The cast mounts are what I consider the post type and raise the engine about an 1" and are prone to breakage in a souped up car. the later mounts are steel and about an 1" lower than the cast ones and are much stronger. 302, are we talking about the same type mounts? The cast mounts are up to early '66 and the steel ones are late '66 and on.

yep, the steel ones are the kind I've grown to hate. The frame mounts are ok, but the motor mounts are terrible about seperating. One hard launch and the rubber comes unglued from the two metal channels. I've heard of people putting a bolt through them, but I don't see how because one side of the mount has to be flush where it sits on the frame mount. Anyway, I broke 4 drivers side mounts in less than a month, and punched a hole in my original perfect hood when a mount snapped and the air cleaner wing nut and stud went thought the hood. After replacing the hood, I replaced the mount one last time and added a homemade torque strap, seems to work ok now. My falcon has the cast post type mounts and I've never had a problem with them.

 

[1320stang]

Ahh, I knew about the seperation, I thought you were speaking of the steel mount.

On the 4 mounts, were any of them new or were they all used? What kind of power are you making? Are you using an engine limiter strap or chain?

 

[302 coupe]

they were all new mounts, 2 were made by Anchor(reputable) and 2 no name brands but I think they were made by Anchor too. Only making about 320 horses, broke one while I had a C4, three others with the T5(and no I don't dump the clutch), broke them all on 225/60/15 radials. In my opinion, thats not the kind of circumstances that should be shredding motor mounts. Now I use a torque strap, wound steel cable with just enough slack for it to not be in tension all the time. Seems to be working out well, as soon as the mount starts to stretch the cable gets the load. The post style mounts have a bolt that runs thru the rubber, the bolt gets the tension and the rubber just serves as washer basically. The motor mount is stronger, but I could understand the frame mount being prone to cracking, being made from relativlely brittle cast iron. It would take quite a shock to crack it though I would imagine.

 

[notny41]

I think I have the separating kind. But on the one I am taking off, the rubber actually tore in the middle (it didn't separate the rubber from the steel).

I might try a strap. Where did you mount the strap? What part of the engine and what part of the frame?

 

[302 coupe]

notny, looking at the bolt that secures the motor mount to the frame mount...does yours run parallel(forward/backward) to the ground or perpendicular(up/down).

 

[302 coupe]

pics of said mounts

The first one pictured above is for 11/65 and after convertible mustangs. They have a bolt(nice upgrade), but they don't work on hardtops, the mount is too short(heigth wise) and the bolt holes will not line up on the block, part number for those is 2287. A similar mount, part number 2286, is for hardtops, looks similar but is taller and has no bolt. I have the 2286's and they suck. the other mount shown above is for V8 stangs made up until 10/31/65. They are the post type mount that require the cast iron frame mount. Part numbers for these are 2220 and 2221 for LH and RH sides, respectively.

 

[notny41]

302

I have the perpendicular post mount. The nut unscrews straight down when I am under the car, as do the bolts that attach the mount to the engine. In fact, 2221 is the part number I ordered.

I'm going to replace it with that same stock part, but I would really like the recipe for your tie down strap!

Thanks - P

 

[302 coupe]

I could tell you, but then I'd have to kill you

Its real simple, the only fabrication you have to do is make a little brakcet to hold it to the frame. I made mine from angle iron and mounted it to the top of the sway bar bracket. All you have to do is cut/drill a hole in it to run the cable through. You can clean/grind it up as much as you like to make it pretty. The other end of the cable mounts to the drivers side head on one of the miscellaneous accesory mounting studs. Just be sure to put a nut and a large enough washer on the stud to keep the cable from sliding off. You can simpy run the cable between the mounts and clamp it back to itself using cable clamps OR you can make it adjustable by adding a turnbuckle, running the cable from the eyelets on each end. This way you can adjust the tension if you wish. I think I used 3/8" cable, not sure. That cable is strong stuff, so theres no need in getting anything bigger. The 3/8 was rated for some ridiculously high load, but the smaller sizes just looked real dinky to me.

Other options include chain(not aesthetically pleasing to me), or fab up a bar with heim joints on each end. I would have done the bar/heim joints but I no longer had a lathe at my disposal. The bars do look slick though, you could probably have a machine shop fab one up for affordable price. Or you could buy some tubing and cut to the right length, buy the threaded inserts and weld them in, and then buy the appropriate sized heim joints to install. I was kinda in a hurry because I was planning on going to the track the next day, and I could do the cable setup in short order. I might go back and do the bar one day though..... note that the bar will transmit vibration whereas the cable will not.

 

[notny41]

Thanks 302!

Does the strap really bolt to the driver's side head?

I thought it was the passenger side that wants to lift up?

 

[302 coupe]

yep, its the drivers side

 

[notny41]

Gotcha. Thanks for clearing that up. So the fact that my passenger side mount went out on me, would indicate that it was not due to engine torque.

 

[302 coupe]

it would be unlikely but anything is possible, especially with 40 year old parts.

 

[notny41]

Got the motor mount in tonight. Piece of cake. Worked well to jack on the bolts holding the oil pan on. Thanks for the idea 302!

The carb is almost perfectly level again - I can't wait to get it out on the road to see if that cures my running-rough condition...

Will work on the limiter strap next.

P