I mean really Blake! How did you get Mike out of Davedacarpainter?
Wait a minute, you were talking to Mike, weren't you? Lol
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Progress Thread My '89 Lx "barn Find" Restoration Project
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Wait a minute, you were talking to Mike, weren't you? Lol
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- Jul 12, 2017
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I mean really Blake! How did you get Mike out of Davedacarpainter?
Wait a minute, you were talking to Mike, weren't you? Lol
A chance to use the same meme twice in the same day!
Yeah I meant Dave. There’s a guy at work named Mike I was talking to when I posted that. 
I'm soliciting your opinion, product recommendations and any other comments... better pictures to follow... If my memory serves me correctly, Ford was experimenting with an E-coat primerless paint in the late 80's. The paint would just flake off the hood on all of their trucks. This clearly has a grey primer underneath, because they painted the car with primer, and then installed the spoiler and small plastic pieces at front lower fender, then shot the color. I was surprised to see no color under the spoiler and these plastic pieces... If you look at the picture where I took off the 5.0 badges... even after using the 3M adhesive eraser, this had to be sanded with 500 wet to get the rock hard tape remains off the surface... You can clearly see what I call the 3 layers of the paint... The primer, the white looking paint under the blue then the blue. What do you think the White is? some sort of sealer before the blue, or is this just the result of the blue being completely oxidized and void of color? But there is no white over the gray primer that was under the spoiler....
I know it looks like Bondo, but the reason I can assure you that it is not is because I'm the only owner the car has ever had... Better pictures to follow...
I now have to go get 3 wobble joints and a variety of socket extensions to get the last nut on the rear bumper cover off. The one at the bottom passenger side, right behind the gas filler tube. Wish I had done this when the gas tank was dropped. (and band-aids for all the cuts and scrapes)
The reason I think the fender was replaced is that appears to be the original white color underneath it all.
I'm not saying it's not factory either. The factory might have damaged the original fender during assembly and had another brought up the line during the refinish process.
I've seen vehicles back then fresh from the factory with up to NINE paint jobs on it. I'm not exaggerating. I had to strip that particular '91 F150.
The various manufacturers back then would send a vehicle back through for repainting when enough serious flaws were found.
It would be sent over to their body area for repair and sent back through the refinish line.
I understand the theory, but there is white under the blue everywhere. Where there is no blue, there is grey.
Wide shot in the sunlight with magnet on the bare metal... The funny thing is that whatever I ran over so many years ago (road gator) slapped the side of the car but left no dent at all.
Then the close up shot showing the thick flaky paint that doesn't seem to be sticking at all to the primer
Then the close up where I inserted an exacto knife between the color and primer layer to show how the paint can just flake off in large chunks here.
Then the close up shot showing the thick flaky paint that doesn't seem to be sticking at all to the primer
Then the close up where I inserted an exacto knife between the color and primer layer to show how the paint can just flake off in large chunks here.
Been forever, but kind of crazy. Finally got the bumpers taken off, sanded down, grinded out all of the spider web cracks, refilled with my plastic welder, re-sanded, skim coated with polyvance 2 part flexible body filler, block sanded and primer coated with Flexible primer coat.
Pulled my quarter windows, and I'm sure y'all will think I'm crazy... But after extensive research I found a urethane material that matches the injection molded urethane on the quarter windows. I used the same flexible body filler to build the deteriorated quarter window molding so I can cast a fiberglass mold. Next, I will remove the damaged window molding, and restore the urethane molding with actual urethane molding.
It has been a while, doing a lot of boring sanding and such on the body, some interior work, and after having some trouble with the oil pressure and original starter... Then a replacement starter, I decided to go ahead and pull engine and trans to go through them. Quick question... Since its all stock, what should I do with the AC system. Keep it as R12 or convert to R134A. Can you use an R12 compressor with R134A?
- Mar 2, 2015
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You can use a r12 compressor with r134a. You have to pour the oil out and use esther oil with the r134a for a retrofit. The local parts store used to sell a retrofit kit that came with all the new fittings and cans of freon and the correct oil. I've used them many times and never had an issue.
I know it has been a while. I've been doing a lot of boring stuff like engine removal, inspection, cleaning, measuring, more measuring, and more measuring. I finally got my bearing removal tool ( I spared no expense and got the specific one for the SBF) and I love it. Anyway, removed the cam bearings today and I have a question...
There are of course the two oil holes in bearing 1, and all the rest have the one slot being fed from the crank bearings. But the block in bearing location #2, has an extra hole that goes up to the valley, but this hole is completely blocked by the #2 bearing after it is installed. Why is it there and what is it for if it gets completely blocked by the bearing?
There are of course the two oil holes in bearing 1, and all the rest have the one slot being fed from the crank bearings. But the block in bearing location #2, has an extra hole that goes up to the valley, but this hole is completely blocked by the #2 bearing after it is installed. Why is it there and what is it for if it gets completely blocked by the bearing?
Water passages were pretty rusty, so I E-tanked the heads. They turned out great. If you aren't familiar with E tanking. You take a plastic tank with water and baking soda, a Power supply with negative hooked up to the rusty object, positive to sacrificial steel plates and run it at about 18Volts and 3Amps for a week. Only rust is removed. The close up in the last picture shows the hydrogen bubbles starting to form as the process just gets under way.
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