Progress Thread My Kenne Bell Twin Screw'd Foxbody thread, (new addition to the family)

[RacEoHolic330]

Plates inside the frame rail with nuts welded to them are probably perfectly fine. I tend to over-engineer things! I would personally use 3/16 plate though.

I'm not sure about relocating the fuel filter.

 

[bird_dog0347]

I didn't relocate the filter. I also didn't strengthen the frame rail, I just used a hole saw in the trunk to access the inside of the rail, and put a washer and bolt inside the rail only through one side so as not to crush it.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Plates inside the frame rail with nuts welded to them are probably perfectly fine. I tend to over-engineer things! I would personally use 3/16 plate though.

I'm not sure about relocating the fuel filter.

Do you mind divulging your front and rear wheel widths and offsets?

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Do you mind divulging your front and rear wheel widths and offsets?

18x8 with 5.10" BS for the front. 18x9 with 6.75" BS for the rear. I don't know the offset numbers.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

18x8 with 5.10" BS for the front. 18x9 with 6.75" BS for the rear. I don't know the offset numbers.

Thank you that helps a lot. Hopefully ordering my wheels today.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

What wheels are you going with?

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

What wheels are you going with?

I had my heart set on some ROH Drift R's but Group A wheels have been inconsistent with info on the wheels. At first they had the size and offset I wanted and needed then when it came to ordering they changed the story to only having one offset and I'd have to run a 1" spacer up front. Then they said they don't have the color wheel I wanted so screw them.

I continued searching and I believe my heart is settled on this wheel. Still debating black w/ machined lip or silver w/ machined lip.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

This video is funny, and explicit, but very funny!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2uYPcDjv7Y

 

[bird_dog0347]

18x8 with 5.10" BS for the front. 18x9 with 6.75" BS for the rear. I don't know the offset numbers.

Thank you that helps a lot. Hopefully ordering my wheels today.

I'm pretty sure you really only need to know one or the other... I mean, if you know it's 9" wide and has a 6.75" BS then every wheel I've seen with that measurement I think is +45... I do know it's all math and such, but I'm only good at math when it comes to how many drinks I've had.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

I'm pretty sure you really only need to know one or the other... I mean, if you know it's 9" wide and has a 6.75" BS then every wheel I've seen with that measurement I think is +45... I do know it's all math and such, but I'm only good at math when it comes to how many drinks I've had.

Most websites don't even give you the back spacing, only offset. Also most 18"x9" wheels were a low offset and those that were a higher offset I didn't like. I thought the wheel selection for 4 lug was tough until I started shopping for wheels required for IRS.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

I'm pretty sure you really only need to know one or the other... I mean, if you know it's 9" wide and has a 6.75" BS then every wheel I've seen with that measurement I think is +45... I do know it's all math and such, but I'm only good at math when it comes to how many drinks I've had.

You're basically right. Offset is just the distance from the center of the wheel to the hub. Backspacing is the distance from the inside edge of the wheel to the hub. True Forged only speaks in backspace numbers. I believe my offset is 57mm. 6.75" - 4.5" = 2.25" = +57mm

 

[bird_dog0347]

Most websites don't even give you the back spacing, only offset. Also most 18"x9" wheels were a low offset and those that were a higher offset I didn't like. I thought the wheel selection for 4 lug was tough until I started shopping for wheels required for IRS.

If only someone had told you the wheels would be a pain... oh... wait, we did.

You're basically right. Offset is just the distance from the center of the wheel to the hub. Backspacing is the distance from the inside edge of the wheel to the hub. True Forged only speaks in backspace numbers. I believe my offset is 57mm. 6.75" - 4.5" = 2.25" = +57mm

Yeah, I can tell you that a 9" wheel with 6.75 BS is perfect with a 275 tire and the MM low profile bolts. The hard part is finding a wheel that is also available in the size/offset you need for the front, then the REALLY hard part is finding all that AND it looking good on a fox for under $2k.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

With 18" wheels, I don't even think the MM bolts are necessary. The heads of the bolts aren't even close to the tire or wheel. I can see 17" wheels coming a lot closer though.

 

[90sickfox]

For my wheels I searched under a 2002 Nissan maxima...just have to make sure the center bore is 73mm... I think. I had a set that came off a max with 45mm bs and 18x 8.5 that fit well with a 265/35 18 tire. I used a regular sharp hammer and chisel on my bump stops. Ground flat and sprayed. The part of the frame that mounts through the frame rail through the trunk doesn't take a lot of stress ( unless you like peeling out in reverse.lol ) the wheel spin clockwise putting stress on the bottom of the rail. I used long bolts and a steel plate in the trunk. I drilled straight up from the bottom and used sleeves. Seems way easier to measure the distance between the holes...make a plate...weld nuts on it and slide it into the frame rail from the rear bumper support area. I've got to check because I can't remember if you can access the rail from the bumper supports ;shrug. My IRS will be going in the third car soon. Always nice to see threads on these swaps. When I did mine there was almost no info out about it. Can't wait to see yours done man. [emoji106]

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

If only someone had told you the wheels would be a pain... oh... wait, we did.




Yeah, I can tell you that a 9" wheel with 6.75 BS is perfect with a 275 tire and the MM low profile bolts. The hard part is finding a wheel that is also available in the size/offset you need for the front, then the REALLY hard part is finding all that AND it looking good on a fox for under $2k.

Yes you did warn of how difficult it was and you were definitely right. I ordered my PU subframe bushings from MM along with the removal tool but I think they're back ordered which sucks so I'll just have to test fit the IRS subframe with the stock rubber mounts until they arrive.

 

[bird_dog0347]

Yes you did warn of how difficult it was and you were definitely right. I ordered my PU subframe bushings from MM along with the removal tool but I think they're back ordered which sucks so I'll just have to test fit the IRS subframe with the stock rubber mounts until they arrive.

That'll be ok... do yourself a favor and spread the lower torque boxes like @RacEoHolic330 did with all thread, washers, and nuts before you try to fit the subframe in the front. It was a massive PITA for me and my Dad to do it, it took us 2-3 hours to force it in there with jacks since I didn't spread them first. As for the removal tool, use plenty of anti-seize and DO NOT use power tools as per MM's instructions. In fact, I found it's much easier to take a drill and a small drill bit and make lots of little holes in the rubber bushings before you try to push it out as that will help immensely!

Also, while you're at it, for not much more money, go buy these and install them too! You will regret leaving the factory rubber in the upper/lower control arms and Diff if you don't replace it while it's out...
Prothane Mustang Irs Control Arm Bushing Set (99-04) Cobra 6311BL
Maximum Motorsports Mustang Rear IRS Urethane Differential Mounts w/ Tool (99-04) MMIRSB45

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

That'll be ok... do yourself a favor and spread the lower torque boxes like @RacEoHolic330 did with all thread, washers, and nuts before you try to fit the subframe in the front. It was a massive PITA for me and my Dad to do it, it took us 2-3 hours to force it in there with jacks since I didn't spread them first. As for the removal tool, use plenty of anti-seize and DO NOT use power tools as per MM's instructions. In fact, I found it's much easier to take a drill and a small drill bit and make lots of little holes in the rubber bushings before you try to push it out as that will help immensely!

Also, while you're at it, for not much more money, go buy these and install them too! You will regret leaving the factory rubber in the upper/lower control arms and Diff if you don't replace it while it's out...
Prothane Mustang Irs Control Arm Bushing Set (99-04) Cobra 6311BL
Maximum Motorsports Mustang Rear IRS Urethane Differential Mounts w/ Tool (99-04) MMIRSB45

Thanks for those links. Now I know what to use my LMR gif card on that I got for Christmas.

 

[90sickfox]

I've never had a problem getting an IRS to bolt in the lower torque boxes. Not saying it doesn't happen but I've done quite a few conversions. I usually put the front in first with the rear tilted up towards the front at an angle then I swing it up to attach the rear. I run stock bushings in my IRS and have no wheel hop or noticeable handling issues. I've run 245 45 17s and 265 35 18s.... I even ran cheap Monro fox shocks with sleeves on the lower bolts....softer ride but the bilstiens feel way better. That's with just over 300hp...maybe w/400 plus it becomes an issue... I'll find out soon. [emoji12]

 

[bird_dog0347]

I've never had a problem getting an IRS to bolt in the lower torque boxes. Not saying it doesn't happen but I've done quite a few conversions. I usually put the front in first with the rear tilted up towards the front at an angle then I swing it up to attach the rear. I run stock bushings in my IRS and have no wheel hop or noticeable handling issues. I've run 245 45 17s and 265 35 18s.... I even ran cheap Monro fox shocks with sleeves on the lower bolts....softer ride but the bilstiens feel way better. That's with just over 300hp...maybe w/400 plus it becomes an issue... I'll find out soon. [emoji12]

I did the same thing with the front going in first then swinging the rear up into place... but I also replaced the front IRS Subframe bushings with poly before I tried it and it could have been a little wider from never having been compressed from a previous installation. Like I said, spreading the mount location first isn't necessary but will make your life much easier.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

I've never had a problem getting an IRS to bolt in the lower torque boxes. Not saying it doesn't happen but I've done quite a few conversions. I usually put the front in first with the rear tilted up towards the front at an angle then I swing it up to attach the rear. I run stock bushings in my IRS and have no wheel hop or noticeable handling issues. I've run 245 45 17s and 265 35 18s.... I even ran cheap Monro fox shocks with sleeves on the lower bolts....softer ride but the bilstiens feel way better. That's with just over 300hp...maybe w/400 plus it becomes an issue... I'll find out soon. [emoji12]

Have your few conversions been for yourself or did you help others?