PI intake swap question ( again )
- Thread starter Killa
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I thought the PI nipple was thicker or thinner, to match the different heater tube, than the non-pi nipple, but I may be wrong.
A lot of power talk about the heads, cam, or even intake swap is a bit exaggerated and you won't feel it to much...it should breathe easier in the topend.
A lot of power talk about the heads, cam, or even intake swap is a bit exaggerated and you won't feel it to much...it should breathe easier in the topend.
I just receive some motorcraft plug and wire part # WR-5938 F8PZ-12259-HA , part # for plug is SP-432 AGSF32FM platium plug, what gap should I get for factory recomment for these platium plug and how much torque i should put down. Btw are those is right part for my 98 gt ?
whould I use anti-seize on plug ?
How do I know which number is these wire ? they dont have number on them.
thanks
whould I use anti-seize on plug ?
How do I know which number is these wire ? they dont have number on them.
thanks
The spark plug wires I got were: F8PZ-12259-HA, looks like the same to me
My plugs (for a PI Headswap/more compression) were SP-505 -Motorcraft AGSF-22C's gapped at .048-.050".
I believe stock gap is .052"-.056"...
A little dab of antiseize on the plug thread is fine, torque to 13 ft. lbs and no more...
My plugs (for a PI Headswap/more compression) were SP-505 -Motorcraft AGSF-22C's gapped at .048-.050".
I believe stock gap is .052"-.056"...
A little dab of antiseize on the plug thread is fine, torque to 13 ft. lbs and no more...
Is the weird noise a shrill? If so, you have a vacuum leak...
Check all hoses, find any loose ones and post pictures of them and we can help you out!
Did you torque the intake down to 18 ft. lbs?
You losing coolant can be a reason for it overheating. Once you get the leak fixed, you need to add coolant again once the thermostat opens. Just because you put coolant in the car when cold, doesn't mean it is full. The thermostat opens and allows more coolant to be put in.
Where is the coolant leaking from?
Check all hoses, find any loose ones and post pictures of them and we can help you out!
Did you torque the intake down to 18 ft. lbs?
You losing coolant can be a reason for it overheating. Once you get the leak fixed, you need to add coolant again once the thermostat opens. Just because you put coolant in the car when cold, doesn't mean it is full. The thermostat opens and allows more coolant to be put in.
Where is the coolant leaking from?
My friend did all the work, I leak coolant before so I though it that my intake is crack, so I replace it with new PI intake, but it still leak but worse. My car miss fire alot low speed, is oil on plug cause this problem ? Im thinking let these guy rebuild my engine
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
Misfires could be from leaking coolant/water on spark plug wires. I have been there and done that with mine, when my stock plastic intake cracked in the t-stat area...
Oil on a plug isn't a good thing...hopefully it isn't a bad thing for you...good luck!
Oil on a plug isn't a good thing...hopefully it isn't a bad thing for you...good luck!
Did you ever replace the PCV valve like you where told todo?? IF not then that's why you have oil on your plugs... and probably the oil is why you are misfiring....
Also if your leaking coolant LOOK to see where it's coming from... that would be a great clue as to what needs to be done....
Another piece of advice.... I NEVER let a freind work on my car, I'll work on theirs, but NEVER let them work on mine.... Not to be smart, but if your as clueless as what your posts seem to make you out to be just take it to an ASE mechanic.... You'll end up spending less money in the longrun....
Also if your leaking coolant LOOK to see where it's coming from... that would be a great clue as to what needs to be done....
Another piece of advice.... I NEVER let a freind work on my car, I'll work on theirs, but NEVER let them work on mine.... Not to be smart, but if your as clueless as what your posts seem to make you out to be just take it to an ASE mechanic.... You'll end up spending less money in the longrun....
First off...the PI intake isn't a straight swap to the NPI heads. Did he RTV around the coolant ports like in the write ups? Second the coolant tube and nipple are needed because the PI intake sits deeper in the cavity between the heads so the coolant tube has to be rerouted so the intake will fit flush. I'm not sure how he got away without doing that. Sounds like you will be tearing it down again to fix the problem.
Im back, after long ass time my car was park in the garage, cause I was waiting for the guy did the swap to do again, some how he ignore all my call, the only reason I scare to do the swap myself is because the fuse rails ( I dint knew how to remove it ), but last night I was really piss off about I just getting the car and now it been park here over a month, I finally desince to do it myself, that way I take it easy and careful ly. I read and read on hayness book and internet, I finally can remove the fulse rails and take the intake out, I was supise that he use WAY TOO MUCH of orange looking rtv that almost block the front water port. Dint he support to use black rtv ( cause I was bought brand new black rtv and gave to him.
after remove the intake, I ran into the problem. in my kit randy include the nipple thing, where do I put it on and how ? and he include the water pump o-ring, where is the water pump and how do I remove it ? thanks
About fulse inject 0-ring, how do i remove the hat to put new oring on ? I bought some oring from autozone, its ok ? or I have to use motorcraft once thanks .
after remove the intake, I ran into the problem. in my kit randy include the nipple thing, where do I put it on and how ? and he include the water pump o-ring, where is the water pump and how do I remove it ? thanks
About fulse inject 0-ring, how do i remove the hat to put new oring on ? I bought some oring from autozone, its ok ? or I have to use motorcraft once thanks .
The water pump nipple has to be removed by taking the water pump out. Pull out your Haynes and look in the first section. It should have a picture with the water pump pointed out. Once you remove the water pump you will see the hole where the nipple has to be remove. Look on the back side of that hole, under the intake manifold and you will see the nipple. Use a socket that just barely fits over the end of the old nipple and tap it out with a hammer. The socket will keep it from flaring on the end to allow it to slip through the hole.
The RTV color has no bearing...just look at the instructions on where you should run the beads and follow them.
The injecters just pop out...just make sure you replace them carefully and not break them. They ain't cheap.
The RTV color has no bearing...just look at the instructions on where you should run the beads and follow them.
The injecters just pop out...just make sure you replace them carefully and not break them. They ain't cheap.
Just got every thing back together, Im gonna let the car sit overnight and will start tomorrow, I dint replace the nipple, I find out my reginal nipple 0-Ring is tear apart, so I just get new 0-ring from new nipple and put it on.
I find out that my oil is kinda green ? how can coolant getting into oils. Im changing oils soon any way.
Wish me luck guy
.
I find out that my oil is kinda green ? how can coolant getting into oils. Im changing oils soon any way.
Wish me luck guy
.
first thing is change the OIL NOW ........if you are still losing coolant you probably didnt get the silicone to seal up , my advice would be to check this out
www.livernoismotorsports.com
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product.phtml?p=457
this kit has a set of adaptors , both sets of gaskets and milled down intake to clear stock hoods ........worth the 500 bucks ........
sell your intake and get their kit , that way there wont be any sealing issues , I know tons of guys have done the swap with silicone but I personally would never trust just silicone alone on an intake gasket .........
www.livernoismotorsports.com
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product.phtml?p=457
this kit has a set of adaptors , both sets of gaskets and milled down intake to clear stock hoods ........worth the 500 bucks ........
sell your intake and get their kit , that way there wont be any sealing issues , I know tons of guys have done the swap with silicone but I personally would never trust just silicone alone on an intake gasket .........
If the intake wasn't sealed properly you probably got some water into the oil. Make sure everything is sealed properly and change the oil.
HPS offers the adaptors for $85
Link Please
.One more question. I dont think my NPI intake is crack at all. because when I change the T-Stat I still saw full of coolant in the housin, what else that can cause my car loose that much coolant.
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