Starting on my motor

[john95 5.0]

Hey guys, I have finally gotten all the parts to do my H/C/I swap on my car. But I have a few questions that i would like your guys help with.

1st, the oil pan gasket, and rear main seal leak pretty badly, I want to just re-gasket the entire thing. Is it easier to just pull the motor out by itself or to pull the motor and transmission as one?
2nd, The car will have 1.7 cobra pedestal mount roller rockers. My question is will i ever have to readjust them? I've heard that after you install them and get your motor warm you should go around and re-torque them to quiet them. Will they get loud if i install them properly from the start?
3rd, the entire combo will be ported gt40 heads, ported gt40 intake, 70mmtb, 75mm MAF with 24lb injectors, UD pulleys, tfs stage one cam, and cai. Is there anything I am missing that will make the combination better? This is really just a little side project I want to do for fun. But if there is something that dose not match well with the combo then I will be willing to switch it out. But i would like to pull as much power as possible from the gt40 set up. Is there anything i could do to maximize the power from this combo?

I'm sure i will have more questions as a get further into the process but you guys have always been helpful. Thanks you!

 

[revhead347]

I personally I prefer to just pull the engine to change the oil pan gasket. Might as well throw a new oil pump in there while you're at it. The rockers never need adjusting. Only solid lifter cars need regular lash adjustment.

Kurt

 

[john95 5.0]

Thanks for the reply. And yes the motor will be getting a new oil pump and water pump, along with timing chain etc. I would like to get it as freshened up as possible without taking it to the shop!

 

[revhead347]

If it's a 5 speed, you might as well throw a new pilot bearing in there too.

Kurt

 

[ratio411]

Nevermind. Misread what you had going on. Sorry.

 

[RangerJoe]

Thats correct that they don't need readjusting; however, after about 500 miles go back and retorque them...18-20 lbs of torque. I neglected to do this like I was advised to and had two of them work loose. They didn't come completely off, but with the rattling and the valve not opening it made me think my motor had blown up.

Also, you might want to shave the heads a little..... .030 should net you about 1/2 a compression point, not massive, but worth an extra couple of horsepower. Your combo is almost exactly like mine, just a few less cubes. Good luck with it.

 

[john95 5.0]

Thanks for the info! After I retorqe the rockers will I have to keep doing that every so often?

 

[revhead347]

Thats correct that they don't need readjusting; however, after about 500 miles go back and retorque them...18-20 lbs of torque. I neglected to do this like I was advised to and had two of them work loose. They didn't come completely off, but with the rattling and the valve not opening it made me think my motor had blown up.

Also, you might want to shave the heads a little..... .030 should net you about 1/2 a compression point, not massive, but worth an extra couple of horsepower. Your combo is almost exactly like mine, just a few less cubes. Good luck with it.

Oh pedastal mount rockers I always put a dap of red loctite on them. Stud mount rockers you can just wrench down and they don't come loose, but the pedastal rockers just have too little torque on them, and oil always drips down in the holes.

Kurt

 

[95snoozer]

sounds like a fine little setup, and should have no problem making 280-290 on a proper tuns.

Check your balancer or upgrade! The new cam and revs will add new found stress to that old rubber.

 

[john95 5.0]

Thanks for the recommendation on the balancer. I have a few questions about the cam. I see a lot of available kits for degreeing a cam and I am wondering if there are certain piston stops that wont fit our blocks? Also is there a degree wheel that is better for ford 302 motors?
Also, when im done degreeing the cam and I find that the specs dont match up then what do I do? I have just a stock double roller timing chain to replace the old one, mine dosent have the dots to advance or retard tbe cam. Do I just buy one with the ability to be adjusted?

Tbanks guys you have all been a great resource!!

 

[revhead347]

Degreeing a cam is a matter of opinion. I've never been big on it. If it's a little off, it's just going to make peak power at a slightly higher or lower rpm, but the same peak power. In order to correct the problem, you adjust the relative position of the gears. All double roller chains are adjustable. Some have measurements on the gears, and some don't. If your chain only has the single dot per gear, it means you're going to have to wing it. Seeing as you would be checking the centerline of the cam each time, there is no danger in it, it just means it will take more time.

I don't understand the question about the piston stop.

Kurt

 

[john95 5.0]

Alright guys i started tearing down the motor, and ran into some suprises. 1St i didnt have any bolt break on me so far! Lol second i only got the passenger side off, and noticed i could literally grab and turn both the springs on the cylinder closest to the fire wall. I could turn it 360 with two fingers...wth? Any ideas guys?

 

[revhead347]

Wow, I've never heard of being able to turn the springs. Is the valve height different on those 2 cyldiners. If the valve height is the same, I would just assume that those 2 springs have failed. Interesting to see if the piston is ok.

Kurt

 

[john95 5.0]

It was both the intake and exhaust springs on one cylinder, I could spin them while they were on the head. This piston didnt look messed up at all and honestly I think I can see some crosshatching on the walls which leads me to believe its been rebuit. I didnt reall get a good look at anything, I was tired and called it a night after pulling that one head off. If it helps I do recall a tap from that area when the car was running, I assumed ut was just a bad lifter.

 

[john95 5.0]

On a side note how long do oil oan gaskets last? and about how many miles does it take for the cross hatching to wear away? Im thinkin maybe it was improperly rebuilt and would just like to see about how long ago this was done.

thanks guys!

 

[revhead347]

Oil pan gaskets don't have a definitive time when they fail. I've seen cross hatching on the cylinders on a Mustang with over 200K. Stock 5.0s make so little power, they can't even wear themselves out.

Kurt

 

[john95 5.0]

Alright well things have been pretty slow, here are some pics
This is day one when i got the mustang

here it is as it sits in the garage right now

on a side note what is the best way to get the gasket material off of the block? Ive seen everything from using a razor blade and brake cleaner to buying these plastic wheels you can attach to your drill and buzz it off.

2nd There are some smaller particles in the bores and was wanting to know the best way to get that stuff out? there isint much but I would like to know if this would effect anything?

3rd what the hell is up with the power steering bracket? lol didin't know i had to buy a puller for the thing, wanted to pull the head but guess not. Sorry about the picture quality if its bad, they were taken with my phone so I will try and get better pics later

 

[revhead347]

I generally use a gasket scraper, and a razor scraper to get gasket material off. To get small crap out of the cylinder bores, I use foamy engine bright to foam it up, then suck it out with a shop vac.

You don't need to buy the pulley puller, Autozone and Advance rent it.

Kurt

 

[john95 5.0]

is it necessary to clean the pistons as well? If so what is the best way?
Also with the new oil pump would it be wise to buy a new pick up as well?
I would like to paint the block and pan, what paint would you recommend for the application? and how do i get the rust off the block?

Thanks for answering all my questions kurt, I cant tell you how much I appreciate it. I just want to make sure I do this right the first time and don't have any problems down the road. This is just a fun project for an 18 year old college kid but I would rather not spend money for someone to fix my mistake lol

 

[revhead347]

Ok, I'm not sure exactly what you are doing here. Is the engine coming out of the car? If so, then definately a new oil pump. Replacing the pickup tube isn't necessary, but they are not that expensive if you just want to change it. That's a personal call, if you just want to clean it out. Most engines just require a standard volume oil pump, don't get all messed up in buying a high volume. A Melling replacement is only $16.

I wouldn't worry about the pistons. Just get the loose stuff off the top. In order to get all the stuff off the piston, you either have to have it pressure washed, or get in there hard with a wire brush. If the piston is still in the block when you do it, you are more likely to do more damage. I'm not sure what you are doing with this engine, so if you are having it remachined, the machine shop will most likely pressure clean the piston for you.

You don't really get the rust off the block, you just have to neutralize it. Tape off the machined surfaces for the job. Then get a little wire brush, and this stuff called "Naval Jelly." It's a pink jelly they sell with the rest of the rust removers in the body section of the auto parts store. You use the wire brush along with this stuff on the rust, and it turns it black. Clean if off with brake parts cleaner, or degreaser, and it's ready for paint. It actually doesn't take that long to do at all.

Kurt