What tool to use to install rear main repair sleeve?

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
4
79
Arkansas
The tool brand new to install a rear main sleeve tool is $30 bucks. Do I have to use "the tool" or is their other methods or ways to use and install it that are cheaper but just as effective?

Thanks:nice:
 
  • Sponsors (?)


89stangWhiz said:
whats a rear main repair sleeve?

Okay what it is, is a shim of sorts that slides over the end of your crankshaft (on the rear). It makes the end of the crankshaft "fatter" for a tighter seal to the rear main seal. It gets rid of possible grooves in the crank and slows any leaks down. Make sense?
 
yeah, it makes a lot of sense. Where do you get it, local parts store?
Was thinking maybe it could help me, but not sure, I have grooves but they are in the block i think not the crank. Been a long time since i replaced it and saw it. But the grooves do give me a small leak...
 
I went to an O'Reilly's part store with the felpro number of 16250. They did find it in there systems even though they had never heard of it.

FEL-16250

Bump...

Hopefully we can both get our problems solved:nice:
 
89stangWhiz said:
Was thinking maybe it could help me, but not sure, I have grooves but they are in the block i think not the crank. Been a long time since i replaced it and saw it. But the grooves do give me a small leak...


Your grooves are in ur block? then i dont think that sleeve would help. Its a thin piece of metal that goes over the end of the crank, to prevent a new seal from leaking or so it doesnt ruin ur new seal. Although ive never seen one, when my crank needed one my teacher said you'll need a crank sleeve and he said he glued them on with an epoxy, i dont think u need a tool to put them on with.

What i dont get is how rubber cuts into metal....Beats me
 
I'm not for sure the inside part of the seal that goes against the crank is rubber. It's more of a plastic. I guess after 100k miles it could wear a groove in the crank.:shrug: Also happens upon removal if the remover scrapes the end of the crank.

I thought the sleeve hammers over the crankshaft? I guess I need to order it and see what it looks like...and maybe post a pic?

Bump...
 
Now that i think about it IS hammered into place. Well more like tapped into place since its such a thin material. You definitly should use some type of adhesive on it just to make sure it stays on there. I remember taking mine off and i had used a flat head and a hammer to slide it off and i had seen a sticky residue underneath it
 
I know it is coming from the rear of the valve covers but the oil is too great IMO to be coming just from that.

I'm sure crankcase pressure is due to part of it, but shouldn't I change out the rear main seal anyways since oil has made it's way out and get a fresh seal in?

My tranny and and underside of car is coated in oil...probably need to pull the tranny to clean and my clutch is slipping bad (as the oil leak has progressed) so that makes me assume it is coming from the rear main seal. I know my clutch wouldn't slip dry...

So I'm also going to replace my clutch disc and do some cleaning...
 
Yeah - if the clutch is slipping, it's probably a rear main leak in addition to the valve cover leaks.

However, if you think you have crankcase pressure issues, you should solve those first. High crankcase pressure will force oil right past a brand new rear main seal. You can put new seals and sleeves in repeatedly, and with high crankcase pressure, it will keep right on leaking. Be sure the pressure issue is solved first -- you may find you don't have valve cover gasket leaks OR a rear main leak once crankcase pressure is where it should be.

I was experiementing with different crankcase venting options on mine. At one point, within 1000 miles of a topend rebuild with all new gaskets/seals on the motor, I had it leaking big time out of the valve covers, and both front AND rear seals. Once I put the stock pcv configuration back on with new valve and screen -- all leaks ceased immediately. Just a thought....
 
Make sure it`s not a PCV issue first...pull out that wire mesh screen below the pcv valve/rubber grommet and see what kind of shape it`s in.If it doesn`t look too bad/plugged soak it in acetone to clean it.If it looks really plugged up,buy a new one.
 
Good call on the acetone - I've used that before; enough in a glass jar to completely cover the screen; drop it in, leave it over night with a lid on the jar. That will clean it right up.

5 spd - how old is the bottom end? Any possibility you simply have more blow-by than the stock pcv system can handle?
 
The pcv valve screen and grommet will be changed. I'm doing a lot of work to it at one time. Changing rear main, new clutch disc, longtubes, ported intake, cleaning, valve cover gaskets, valvetrain geometry adjustment, etc.

Hopefully all the problems should be cleared up after this:nice:
 
Michael Yount said:
5 spd - how old is the bottom end? Any possibility you simply have more blow-by than the stock pcv system can handle?

162k as of now...I don't think that is the main problem but who knows. A compression check could give me a better idea right?
 
Cranking compression won't tell you as much as leakdown tests. 162k -- you could be seeing the beginning of tired rings. If you're changing clutch anyway -- doing the rear main is a solid idea -- I'd change it too under those circumstances.
 
So how could I go about doing a leakdown Michael? I'm not familiar with it...:shrug:

I wish I had the money for a rebuild. I know summit sells a "cheap" rebuild kit for about $250...but the machining itself would cost more...