DCC controller issues.

[5.0CRAZY]

Installed the DCcontroller from dcconrtol.com today with the taurus electirc fan. Wired it up all correctly following the directions. But the fan doesnt seem to come on as the temp climbs, I let it get to just under 210 before shutting it off without the fan doing anything.

Did some troubleshooting, using 12V from the battery with a jumper on to the AC wire (blue), and the fan turns on, seems kind of slow but pulling some air at least. Then I tried adding 12V to the igition wire (yellow), using a jumper again, and the fan turns on, and seems to stay on regardless of the temperature.

I tried moving the temp probe to different parts of the rad, making sure it was sitting flush, and still nothing from the fan. ( I know its supposed to be by the outlet, I just moved it around for testing purposes.)

Any other ideas or suggestions? Faulty temp probe maybe?

Edit- Im pretty sure my thermo is just a stock 195* which I know doesnt match the controller, but after the thermo opens at 195 and the rad starts the flow it should trigger the controller to start the fan regardless shouldn't it?

 

[HISSIN50]

The t-stat thing could cause some issue perhaps.

The stat might not open fully till 210*F or so. Now hot coolant is flowing through the coil and going over the probe and the fan comes on. Then the stat closes and the probe sees cool coolant (because hot coolant is not making it into the radiator and thus going over the probe) and the fan shuts down. Said another way, the fan is entirely dependant upon the t-stat being open.

Because there's no point in having the fan run with the stat closed, if you didnt get the rheostat, you could pin the jumpers for 202*F or 212*F target temps. This would be for diagnostics, as I'd change stats (see below).

I would wire up the ignition input how you want it (I like having it connected to accessory power so the fan doesnt run with the car off).

FWIW (for testing): If you install the U/D jumper, when you have the AC on, the fan should spool at 100% duty cycle.

You can disconnect the connector for the probe (disconnect it from the unit). You should see 5 volts with your meter (biased across the two pins). Be sure to not short the meter leads to other terminals.

If it still isn't acting the way you desire (or even if it does), I'd go to a balanced t-stat. They are less likely to suffer from hysteresis like non-balanced stats.

Of course, contacting Brian is always the best way to go.

Random thoughts.
Good luck.

 

[5.0CRAZY]

The car ran at about 180* and occasionally would creep up to 195 with the mech fan setup. I've never seen it hit 200* before so I think the t-stat is fully open much earlier than 210*
I have the u/d jumper on and the fan still doesnt run at all. I could see the t-stat causing issues but I dont think it would stop the fan from running at all.

I put 12V to the ign. wire (direct from the battery with the car not running) with the U/D jumper in and the fan ran constantly. But it doesnt seem to be running at 100%, only seems to be pulling as much air as the stock fan at idle, if not less. I'll the voltage across the probe pins, then maybe email Brian for some advice. Meanwhile I have no car to drive.

 

[HISSIN50]

The U/D jumper only makes the fan run at like 10%.

The AC input makes it run at 50%.

Both combined give you 100% IIRC.

You dont have a stock thermostat if you ran at 180*F before.

 

[5.0CRAZY]

Well, I tested the the pins for the probe and they measure 4.84V. The probe measured 104.6Kohm. Seems close enough.

Anyways I guess I scared it because it seems to have started working now. At least at idle, just have to give it a test drive now.

Whats a good underhood source for the ign input wire, accessory source that is? I dont have the low coolant sensor to tap into.


Thanks for the help hissin.

 

[jrichker]

Well, I tested the the pins for the probe and they measure 4.84V. The probe measured 104.6Kohm. Seems close enough.

Anyways I guess I scared it because it seems to have started working now. At least at idle, just have to give it a test drive now.

Whats a good underhood source for the ign input wire, accessory source that is? I dont have the low coolant sensor to tap into.


Thanks for the help hissin.

Check out the red/green wire on the ignition coil.

 

[HISSIN50]

If this is on an aero fox, the VPWR feed to the cannister purge solenoid also works.
It's sometimes a little closer to the controller (and it avoids having wires jump from the body to the motor).