PI Intake on 98GT?

I did the intake swap recently and I do notice a difference up top as far as pull goes. I bought mine used off of an 02 GT for like $200, pretty good deal and it wasn't cracked. So just beware of what you buy if it is really cheap.
 
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If you know where to buy them, you can get the aluminum crossover PI Intake brand new for $170.00. Also with the PI intake and PI cam swap, the NPI motor will pull to 5500 RPM just like the stock PI motor. The PI Cam/Intake Swap is worth about 35 RWHP, the PI Head/Cam/Intake swap is worth about 45-50 RWHP. The extra 10-15 HP comes from the compression bump which limits your power adder options on the stock NPI shortblock.
 
n3oinc said:
So PI intakes will directly bolt to NPI heads? I was unaware of this untill now. All my research seemed to have only pointed to the intake bolting to a PI head.

>=?

The PI intake will bolt on to any modular 2V head. The ports do not match exactly though.
 
I did the PI intake swap with the adapter plates and it was easy. After about 2 months i got a good deal on PI heads/cams and installed them. The intake alone was a nice boost after 4000rpms. After the heads and cams went in it was an increase all over.

I know a guy on Corral who is selling a set of the adapter plates he bought and didn't use. If anyone is interested i'll post a link.
 
IMHO, you don't need the adapter plates.

You are going to need a tune if you use the adapter plates, which is part of the reason I don't like them. If you have a tune, you are going to have to have it updated when using the plates. The plates change the spray of the fuel injectors as they move them farther away from the stock location.

The other part of the reason I don't like them is that they have not shown any improvement in HP or TQ. The only good thing about the plates is that they do not require the need for RTV, and IMHO, RTV is just fine. It is what some auto makers used to make factory gaskets in the past.

Some people swear by the adapter plates and some don't. I don't really care which method someone uses. This is my opinion that the plates are a huge waste of money which is also part of the reason I don't recommend them.
 
TGJ said:
IMHO, you don't need the adapter plates.

You are going to need a tune if you use the adapter plates, which is part of the reason I don't like them. If you have a tune, you are going to have to have it updated when using the plates. The plates change the spray of the fuel injectors as they move them farther away from the stock location.

you know, I thought I've heard that before - its probably a good thing that I didnt use adapter plates when I installed my intake, I certainly do not have money for a dyno tune right now. Thanks for the info!
 
the plates aren't going to move the injectors that much farther out. the plates are like as thick as a silver dollar. The livernois plates on the other hand are quite thick. So maybe that would change the spray pattern...i don't see that happening with the united majority plates.
 
Heres how thick it is

gasketplatestock.jpg
 

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What is that, 5/8 of an inch, including plate and the extra gasket required to use the plates. That is more height on an injector I wouldn't want to have. I would rather keep the injector where Ford intended it to be, but like I said earlier. Why spend at least $100.00 on something that has no proven gains when a $2.00 setup would do the same and you know with the $2.00 setup, you are not messing up the spray pattern of the fuel injector?
 
Just one more ?

can you port match the PI intake to the non-PI heads? has anyone done this? is there a template? can you make a template and transfer it yourself to the intake and then with a little patience and a dremel at least get the ports closer?

-jp
 
itshowmuch said:
can you port match the PI intake to the non-PI heads? has anyone done this? is there a template? can you make a template and transfer it yourself to the intake and then with a little patience and a dremel at least get the ports closer?

-jp


there is plates availible out there. about 100 bucks. but the rtv does work fine if you do it right.
 
there are two things that are bothering me about this swap.
1) the repeated advise to RTV it right. makes me think and probably rightly so that if you dont seal the non-PI gasket well with RTV and provide a solid seat then you are going to have problems. are likewise if you use to much and get RTV all over the place like i tend to do then you still are going to have problems.
2)the news that i have to custom fab a coolant line to go from the front to the rear of the intake.

so given those two things i am beginning to think this is not as straight a bolt on swap as i believed and someone that isnt as "handy" creating solutions on the fly and prefers straight bolt swaps (like me) should probably spend some extra $$ and get the kit.

thanks for all your input. and just info. i just cracked my intake so i was doing a little reading up on what my choices were in replacing and maybe upgrading that component. i am very excited about the 2 intakes coming out for the 2v and wonder what my choices in a few more weeks may be.
-jp
 
itshowmuch said:
can you port match the PI intake to the non-PI heads? has anyone done this? is there a template? can you make a template and transfer it yourself to the intake and then with a little patience and a dremel at least get the ports closer?

-jp


yes you can. it isn't easy. all you are doing is making trumpets. there isn't enough space to actually fix the mismatch. it may be worth a few hp, but remember the angle these port align with the intake acts like a ramp instead of a solid wall. the upper part of the ports are very close to the same anyway. templating and mark matching is easy if you know how, but time consuming. i got rid of the heads i did it on when i switched, but make sure to use dense sponge rubber in the ports and double them up and vacuum carefully to get aluminum out of them. i greased the edges of the sponges to make sure. i do stuff for my own satisfaction. 1 hp gain? probably. the livenois parts lose plenum volume to match them. i can't see that helping HP. just rtv and get some PI heads and do it all later. you will in the end anyway. we all do in the end.

btw the heads i "port matched", i ported to destruction, only to find out they really do suck, even inside. not really that much there to make better. ported PI seems to kill them.
 
itshowmuch said:
there are two things that are bothering me about this swap.
1) the repeated advise to RTV it right. makes me think and probably rightly so that if you dont seal the non-PI gasket well with RTV and provide a solid seat then you are going to have problems. are likewise if you use to much and get RTV all over the place like i tend to do then you still are going to have problems.
2)the news that i have to custom fab a coolant line to go from the front to the rear of the intake.

so given those two things i am beginning to think this is not as straight a bolt on swap as i believed and someone that isnt as "handy" creating solutions on the fly and prefers straight bolt swaps (like me) should probably spend some extra $$ and get the kit.

thanks for all your input. and just info. i just cracked my intake so i was doing a little reading up on what my choices were in replacing and maybe upgrading that component. i am very excited about the 2 intakes coming out for the 2v and wonder what my choices in a few more weeks may be.
-jp
If you use the pi head gasket on the NPI head you only need a very small amount of RTV. Look above for pics....this has been laid out in detail numerous times. Enough that everyone here should be a pro by now. :D
 
Johnny Langton was the first to do just the PI intake swap. His intake had a material put in to match the PI intake to the NPI intake ports, I don't recall that material was. So that can be done. However, you do not remove material from the intake, you have to add it.

Now you can do what I have had done and what JL has as well which is port-matched NPI heads to the PI intake ports. I don't recommend this unless you intend to use P&P NPI heads or P&P SVO heads.

Now you don't need to fab a coolant tube from the front to the back, Ford has an available tube for this. You need this tube if you have a PI head swapped car, PI intake swapped car or a factory PI headed car.
 
ok, i am taking the plunge. i called up and ordered the parts. i'll found the install directions that were posted. hopefully see you on the other side of a successful mod.(not really a mod because the intake is cracked and was coming off anyway)

hopeful - jp