Taurus fan install(in the process of)

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by iskwezm, Sep 19, 2006.

  1. The wire colors weren't mentioned, nor did we ask about them. I feel bad cause it wasn't covered and we could've saved him time & money. I'm sorry about that Iskwezm. But at least someone was paying attention (Baskin :nice: )
  2. like i said, its only 3 wires, i have been doing electrical for A LONG time, but like everybody,i dont know everything.As long as it helps somebody else later,thats all that matters:nice:

    I still only have about $175 bucks into it with the fan,relay and new motor, would have been cheaper if i pulled it myself from a junkyard.
  3. Like was stated before using these guys controller http://www.dccontrol.com/ is pricey but you will see less startup shock on the circuit. I used the bosch 75a relay style with diode but it would till drop the engine RPM's at the initial amp surge where the dccontrol is gradual. By the way you have a super looking ride!!!
  4. That is the reason I bought the DC controller. Its a Varible switch
    so your not run the electric fan full power until it clicks off. Know I
    had a Blue Black and Brown wire on my Taurus fan. On mine Brown was
    low speed and Blue was high Speed.
  5. Yeah it kicks the fan on low speed whenever you want, say 160°. Then you program it to kick the fan on high at your specified temp, say 185°. The fan does not run any time below 160°, which will help getting the motor up to operating temperatures to prevent excess wear. It also allows your fan to run at lower speed which extends the fan motor life. It also prevents the power spikes that the Taurus fan causes when it first kicks on and on high (if wired that way). I paid $65 for my SPAL controller and love it. No relays, just the controller :nice: Mounted under the dash (although weatherproof) to eliminate underhood clutter.
  6. The DCC varies the speed from 0 to 100% depending on cooling load, the spal is a two speed controller. It doesn't do anything prevent power spikes, as their website states, it starts at full voltage and then drops down, so it probably triggers the external relay to start the fan atfull speed and then shuts the relay off so that it can supply 6V to the fan.

    Are you running the taurus fan with the spal without the relay?
  7. I did'nt realize the DCC controller varied from 0 to 100% and not 2 speeds. The spal controller still does a damn good job at controlling voltage spikes because when the fan does kick on, it is in low speed and is nearly half the amperage. I'm running a Zirgo fan that's "supposed to be" over 3500cfm. I have a 75 amp and my lights don't even dim when it kicks on low. Not sure what the Taurus/Mark IV fan would do, but mine does not even blip on the radar when the fan kicks in.
  8. Zirgo says their fans only draw about 7 1/2 amps, so you don't need the relay, I hate to tell you this, but I think their ratings are pretty much fictional, you can't flow that level of cfm at that current level with any reasonable sized blade, don't take that personally, I'm just telling you what I've found. You would need the relay on the Taurus fan though

    I don't know why Spal did it that way, but it always starts at full speed and then drops off, so it helps on the overall draw, but not on the current spikes. It's still a decent controller, but ny time you add the relay and temp sensor, the price goes up quite a bit.

  9. Yeah the Zirgo fans pretty much suck and only blow about half their rating.
  10. whew, almost bought a spal controller to help my lil 100a alternator. installing a 16" spal (bcool) fan on the 66 right now.
  11. It should be covered for all else to know.. he did mention the wire colors to me over a phone call, But even I dont rermember all these things unless its written down in front of me. I'll be poking around my car tommorw so Ill take note of the fan number and wire colors. I have another car that has the dcc with a custom built billet shroud that uses the tauras fan motor and blade that Im gonna take some pics of.
  12. My fan is the F4DH--CB. There are three wires, ground is the black wire, low is the brown/orange wire and high speed is the brown/yellow wire. The brown wires are the top and middle wires with the black the bottom wire........
  13. hmmm, I had the brown/orange as high. i wonder if it was or will work better when i get the new one :shrug:
  14. so what is the conclusion, how well does the taurus fan work, what should one look out for when installing one, is it worth it? just wondering, thanks:SNSign:
  15. still waiting for the new motor, think i got took on Ebay.

    But from the one day it worked, i KNOW it will work,and even better with a bigger alternator.:nice:
  16. If you need max cooling and can afford to upgrade the alt at the same time, then either the Mark VIII fan or the Taurus fan is your BEST bet, bar none. If you can foot an extra 120$ or so, then buy the DC Controller; if you can't/won't then a 75A relay, a fuse, a swtich, and the correct size wire (from a welding supply store) will work.
    I've been a firm believer of this since 2000 when I put in my first Mark VIII in a 90 coupe. Doing the same to my 65 and would recmnd it to anyone who will listen.

    Just my 2 cents....
  17. what wire from a welding supply?
  18. Standard welding wire. It comes in all gauges, is black, hundreds of strands, and double insultated. Also, get the lug ends when you are there; they are copper and need to be either hammered or use a vise to squeeze them on. I finish it off w/some shrink tube (both red and black) to make it look more 'complete'.
  19. where in the electrics is the welding wire used?
  20. * fan motor
    * relay/DC Controller
    * alt if upgrading
    * grounds