Not as a basic kit. Just some good high temp paint. Always an option though. I just want to make it affordable for as many people as possible. I'm too cheap. I'm not gonna coat my new kit. Just paint it.
turbo set up and custom made headers
- Thread starter 12sec67
- Start date
Not as a basic kit. Just some good high temp paint. Always an option though. I just want to make it affordable for as many people as possible. I'm too cheap. I'm not gonna coat my new kit. Just paint it.
-
Sponsors (?)
68FBJJZ109
Member
Haha thats awsome, well i know it does wonders in heat transfer, maybe something to think about for your own.
Yeah, I know with the coating. But I really didn't notice any difference in heat under the hood compared to pre-turbo.
Darkstoj-yeah, sure have. Got another to build for 12sec67. Just about done with his 8 point. Pain in the butt to install in his car. With headliner and wanting the back bars to go in parallel with his stripes. We're gathering parts now and should be done real soon. Just started, should get the parts soon.
Chrome Moly isn't much more fun. Putting a 10pt in mine now. If you get a chance to do it yourself, skip it.
Darkstoj-yeah, sure have. Got another to build for 12sec67. Just about done with his 8 point. Pain in the butt to install in his car. With headliner and wanting the back bars to go in parallel with his stripes. We're gathering parts now and should be done real soon. Just started, should get the parts soon.
Chrome Moly isn't much more fun. Putting a 10pt in mine now. If you get a chance to do it yourself, skip it.
how much are you charging? What size turbo are you using? I've been wanting to do this FOREVER! Do you still have to get rid of the swaybar for these? I got a good 5.0L ready to go into this 65 I just got and want to do something fun with it!
The kit will fit almost any turbo with a T-4 flange and a P-trim turbine. Anything else, and I just need to know so I can change the flange on the pipping. Turbonetics run a flat flange instead of the V-band I have on these.
The single kit still gets rid of the sway bar. I just need to make a header for the passenger side so you can run twins. Then Swaybar is OK. But it still doesn't fit the 65
. If these sell I want to make more headers for different years. It's just too expensive to do all at once when not making alot of them. I have to pay for setup, and them buy a minimum of 5 sets.
They will probably cost about 1250 for the headers, crossover and down pipe. I am selling them cheaper than that right now so I can move some of them and get "word of mouth."
The single kit still gets rid of the sway bar. I just need to make a header for the passenger side so you can run twins. Then Swaybar is OK. But it still doesn't fit the 65
. If these sell I want to make more headers for different years. It's just too expensive to do all at once when not making alot of them. I have to pay for setup, and them buy a minimum of 5 sets. They will probably cost about 1250 for the headers, crossover and down pipe. I am selling them cheaper than that right now so I can move some of them and get "word of mouth."
The kit will fit almost any turbo with a T-4 flange and a P-trim turbine. Anything else, and I just need to know so I can change the flange on the pipping. Turbonetics run a flat flange instead of the V-band I have on these.
The single kit still gets rid of the sway bar. I just need to make a header for the passenger side so you can run twins. Then Swaybar is OK. But it still doesn't fit the 65
They will probably cost about 1250 for the headers, crossover and down pipe. I am selling them cheaper than that right now so I can move some of them and get "word of mouth."
I'm still waiting for my 351W headers! Let me know when you are ready as I'd really like to buy premade headers instead of attempting to make my own.
There's a little more room in the 69/70's... maybe the 302 headers would fit? I'd like to go with a Master Power T70, with P trim exhaust housing and T4 flange. Sounds like it would work perfect with your setup.
But it still doesn't fit the 65
Much to my dismay. I too want one or two for my 65 as well. I've been following your progress for a while now
and just have a few questions/comments.If you made a set of 289/302 headers for the 65-66, wouldn't they fit the later years as well since 65-6 are the tightest?
Is it the cross-over that makes you remove the sway bar, I want to keep mine?
I'm serious about doing this and have been talking with some of the known kit makers about a kit for the 65-66. I think there is a definite market for these cars and with the growing popularity of turbos it could be a money marker. I just don't have the skills to make headers/hot side. I could do the rest.
Anyway, keep up the good work and post updates.
That's exactly what I built the kit around. I'm trying to get these all made. Send me a measurement from the buldge in the shock towers. If it wider than mine mock up cars('67), then I'll make you a set.
88dragtop. OK I guess I'll put the winter upgrades on hold then. I wanted to finish my cage and buy a stall and lay the smacketh down at the track
. But I have so many people wanting these. It will just have to wait, again.Just becaus it'll fit one, it woun't always fit another. they all vary a little from where the upper A-arm mount and down.I'll order the parts tomorrow.
Oh yeah. The crossover is why you can't have a swaybar. Twins will be fine, but a little more in the long run. I can't tell I don't have a swaybar. You can build around it if you come real close to rad hoses. But if you run it one way to go around a stock lower rad hose placement, it won't fit a crossflow. So I planned for no sway bar for hard core drag racers, and twins for the others.
I may have found a way for P/S. But more on that junk later.
I may have found a way for P/S. But more on that junk later.
Yes,
twins will be more but I just like the looks of it. Probably better to make a specific header for the various years, the other one size header fits all 65-70 seem to have issues. Even in the 65-66, there were 2 different motor mounts with the later ones raising the motor about an inch. I'm trying to figure how to shoehorn an IC in front but want to try to keep stock appearance, maybe shelby lower valance with opening. I don't have any accessories but this isn't a dedicated drag car or intended to be. With twins could the return exhaust go over the crossmember? I can't even go out and look at possibilities since winter here means my car is covered up. We need more boosted classics to hang with the new stuff, poor old red gets whooped up on out there.
twins will be more but I just like the looks of it. Probably better to make a specific header for the various years, the other one size header fits all 65-70 seem to have issues. Even in the 65-66, there were 2 different motor mounts with the later ones raising the motor about an inch. I'm trying to figure how to shoehorn an IC in front but want to try to keep stock appearance, maybe shelby lower valance with opening. I don't have any accessories but this isn't a dedicated drag car or intended to be. With twins could the return exhaust go over the crossmember? I can't even go out and look at possibilities since winter here means my car is covered up. We need more boosted classics to hang with the new stuff, poor old red gets whooped up on out there.
I find that quite surprising. For me going from a stock to a 1in sway bar was a night and day positive difference. I cant imagine what no bar would be like!
it all depends on what your suspension combo is.
I had intentions of doing the whole Road Race thing when i first got started and bought the 750 grab-A-trak front coil springs from mustangs plus with an adjustable shock (set on 70/30) and did the A-arm drop. As i started going to the drag strip track i removed the end links to the sway bar to help weight transfer. i didn't notice a difference driving it home without the links connected. I haven't had a sway bar on for the past 2 years.
Most people will notice a difference since they are running 620's but i didn't with my set up.
I had intentions of doing the whole Road Race thing when i first got started and bought the 750 grab-A-trak front coil springs from mustangs plus with an adjustable shock (set on 70/30) and did the A-arm drop. As i started going to the drag strip track i removed the end links to the sway bar to help weight transfer. i didn't notice a difference driving it home without the links connected. I haven't had a sway bar on for the past 2 years.
Most people will notice a difference since they are running 620's but i didn't with my set up.
Glad to see this brought back up. The intercooler issue is problematic on the 65-66 cars. I have hacked up a R-valence and set a huge intercooler in place on my 'vert project. Given the flow of the D2 procharger, I wanted a LOT of intercooler, but this is ridiculous [click on the link below if you are interested]. Then again, the car is a show car / drag car [well, as much as a 'vert can be, anyway!]...and even fitting the big blower is going to require cutting out some of the driver side inner sheet metal [it sits several inches too wide]. When I start working on measurements and layouts, I tell myself I have lost my mind, and need to go a different direction.
I love turbos...and having had some issues w/ my engine builder [that's a whole 'nother thread]...I probably should have done something like your from the git-go. MII front end sure would allow plenty of room to route twins, eh?
Keep us informed!
I love turbos...and having had some issues w/ my engine builder [that's a whole 'nother thread]...I probably should have done something like your from the git-go. MII front end sure would allow plenty of room to route twins, eh?
Keep us informed!
I'll try to answer all of these. Doc, the IC's are easier for the 65-66 than the 67-68 only because the grill angles back as it goes toward the headlights. An IC can definetly can fit with some massaging. I would like to offer a kit with an IC, but not until I can get a pretty way to do it. the kit I have now puts the turbo in a location so it can be clocked, and the cold side goes forward. I planned ahead for that. So It can be done if someone wants to take to take the time to make on fit, it possible.P.S., twins in a 65 with MMII ? Easy. Tons of room. PM me if you would like some help with that IC. You could make it smaller and more efficient than that.
Basically at this point I need to make 3 headers. Two that will fit 65-66 in a single app, and then a pass. side that will make for twins. The other header on the driverside is already a twin header due to the close shock tower and having to be above the oil filter.
Dragtop I'd have to look closer at it. But that's probably where the DP's would run. I want the plugs to be easy to get to. I will probably only make the kit once for a 65-66. They will need 67 and up motor mounts since the ealry ones tear so easily. And this will only be, if the 67's change the motor hieght. (Don't know personally)
I think I got them all...any more q's ?
Basically at this point I need to make 3 headers. Two that will fit 65-66 in a single app, and then a pass. side that will make for twins. The other header on the driverside is already a twin header due to the close shock tower and having to be above the oil filter.
Dragtop I'd have to look closer at it. But that's probably where the DP's would run. I want the plugs to be easy to get to. I will probably only make the kit once for a 65-66. They will need 67 and up motor mounts since the ealry ones tear so easily. And this will only be, if the 67's change the motor hieght. (Don't know personally)
I think I got them all...any more q's ?
My procharger has the cast 3core which is about 1/3 of the size of docs. I think it can be done easier, the 2core would be no problem but probably too small. With twins obvioulsy makes IC'ing harder but there's a lot out there, been searching. I like being able to reach the plugs too. I'm not sure if you can use 67 mounts in the earlier cars, I'd have to check. It definately isn't going to be easy.
taylor4g63
Founding Member
Have a question for you 10secgoal
I was going to PM you this question but there might be others that are wondering as well.
I attached a picture of your setup with crude labels just to make sure we're tlaking about the same parts.
What size pipe to you use for the crossover (A)?
What size is the merge pipe into the turbo (B)?
I will be using a T61 turbo, shooting for 400hp MAX, so what would you recommend? I dont' want to rev past 5,500, so I THINk smaller pipe would be better from me. But I don't want to restrict it too much. I'm thinking 2" for the crossover, and 2.5" for the merge. Any opinions on that?
I was going to PM you this question but there might be others that are wondering as well.
I attached a picture of your setup with crude labels just to make sure we're tlaking about the same parts.
What size pipe to you use for the crossover (A)?
What size is the merge pipe into the turbo (B)?
I will be using a T61 turbo, shooting for 400hp MAX, so what would you recommend? I dont' want to rev past 5,500, so I THINk smaller pipe would be better from me. But I don't want to restrict it too much. I'm thinking 2" for the crossover, and 2.5" for the merge. Any opinions on that?
Attachments
The plugs on my headers are a peice of cake. Easier than some of the long tubes I've had to work on.
Taylor... The crossover is 2.5, and the merge that goes into the turbo is the same. To be honest, I have used 2.25 for a crossover into a 2.5merge into the turbo. I plan to test that against this system I just made. But I have talked to bigger companies than me and they have told me that the 2.5 will spool a turbo faster. Again, I have no proof of this though.Just what the bigger guys tell me. I will know when I get my new kit running on my car. I have some safety upgrades to makes first though. That's a good size turb. would be alot of fun with a .84-.81 housing on it. Once I tighten my stall up, I think this kit could spool by 3200ish with 12-15 psi.
Any more Q's, shoot. Don't mind at all.
