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To be honest....the girdle will only help save the rotating assembly if the block cracks. I'm not sure if it'll clear a stock pan.
If you're not planning to possibly make more than 450hp or add boost then the girdle isn't needed. High rpms also aide in cracking these blocks....6 grand or less shouldn't be a problem.
My block is girdled because ( at the time ) I didn't know better. If I could do it all over it would be a 351 based stroker. A 393 is calling my name as we speak. For the cost of building a 331 you could have 91 more cubic inches and a block that can hold 250 more HP. You'd need a swap oil pan, a different intake, and headers...but you would need a set of heads, distributor, intake etc. already. Even a stock 351 has more cubes than a 331.
If you wanted my honest opinion I'd tell you to build a 351 with a good cam and heads...or stroke it to 393, 408, or 427.
Now you'd have a powerful street/strip car- with a combo you can grow with. [emoji106]
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
since no one has addressed this yet, NO to underdrive pulleys. Complete waste of money
All that a main girdle does is help hold your broken parts in the pan
Going from EFI to carb is like going from a computer to a typewriter because it's "easier to deal with" imo
NO to high pressure oil pump and water pump
A stock radiator an the stock SN95 e fan should be fine to keep the car cool.
My advice- pick your heads then build the motor around them- cam, springs, pistons, etc.
All that a main girdle does is help hold your broken parts in the pan
Going from EFI to carb is like going from a computer to a typewriter because it's "easier to deal with" imo
NO to high pressure oil pump and water pump
A stock radiator an the stock SN95 e fan should be fine to keep the car cool.
My advice- pick your heads then build the motor around them- cam, springs, pistons, etc.
You can bet there are, just no 'speed' shifting or sticky tires.
Make sure you have a steel retainer on the input shaft where the throw out bearing rides. Be nice to it and it will live for quite a while.
Make sure you have a steel retainer on the input shaft where the throw out bearing rides. Be nice to it and it will live for quite a while.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
which heads- what size runners and valves, not sure how you can have springs before getting the cam
what rockers
Custom cam- that means nothing. what are the specs. You can get a "custom cam" that has the same profile as many OTS cams.
Many have used a stock T-5 behind a warmed up small block/big block. Or with blowers or a snail and even probably a bottle. And the things they all have in common? When they break em-
they rebuild/replace/upgrade
Put it behind your motor and roll with it till it quits,cause it's gonna be Fun lol
they rebuild/replace/upgrade
Put it behind your motor and roll with it till it quits,cause it's gonna be Fun lol
Scat. And go with a cast crank. Don't bother with forged or the girdle. The cast crank will out last the block and the girdle doesn't add any structural strength. Keep the RPM's below 6500 rpms and power levels below 500rwhp and it will all live for awhile. The t5 surviving is a crap shoot. With powershifts,sticky tires,etc it won't last long. If it's a street car that is mostly granny shifted...should last a long time.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
^^ this Forged internals in a stock block are a waste of money as the block is the weakest link. Save the forged internals for an aftermarket block. If I were you, I'd call Woody at Fordstrokers and have him build a motor for you right the first time.
krazedstang
15 Year Member
Thats what I tell EVERYONE when they question why I didn't get forged internals on my stock block when I did my top end kit.
T5 will hold up if you don't power shift it and slip the clutch on the launch. use a stock clutch as a fuse it will slip some and be more forgiving. No drag radials.
I put down 380rwtq at 2500rpm.... stock t5.
I put down 380rwtq at 2500rpm.... stock t5.
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