Bought my 1st FOX a 92 GT

NWJason

New Member
Jun 13, 2008
13
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Seattle/Tacoma
Have alot of learning to do and a few questions for you guys who know all this stuff.

What are the bennifits of

* deeper oil pan

* long tube short tube equal or unequal length headers

* x and h pipes

* the cheapest way to do a 5 lug conversion

* better aftermarket radiator

* electric fan

* taking off the smog pump

* ummmmm???

I have so many questions and so many things i want to do to my car, I love this car wish I had it when I was 17...or maybe not lol,

basicall im trying to build a 11 second weekend date car, something i can enjoy for fun throughout the years.

so far i''ve got

lunati cam
afr heads
bassani x pipe w/cats (want them gone for the louder sound is that a hard removal if not how)
edel brocl intake
c&l 73mm
bbk CAI fender mount
19lb injectors going with 24lb.
gonna get a fuel pressure regulator, whats i good one to get?
there may be more im forgetting?

I want this car to stay naturally aspirated and what are the power benifits to a aluminum drive line?

oh yeah i wanna lower it would 1 inch be fine for performance and handling?

thats it for now i will be back to learn more from you guys, any advice on the best prices out there for parts please throw me some links =)

I gave up sport bikes for this ride!!! got get it rolling like i want it now

-Cheers

-Jason Spalding
 
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Have alot of learning to do and a few questions for you guys who know all this stuff.

What are the bennifits of

* deeper oil pan
More oil capacity means cooler oil temps

* long tube short tube equal or unequal length headers
never really researched it so i dont know the exact reason, but there is alot of documentation go LT headers making more power than shorties, but the tradeoff is a PITA working with the headers, IMO shorties are a great way to do. easy to take off and etc, the ease and simplicity of the shorties far outweighs the few HP you gain with LTs IMO... at least on a street car where you're not going for 100% power...

* x and h pipes
sound mostly, there is a negligable difference in performance b/w the two IMO(at least nothing you can feel), generally the H has the deeper tone than the X

* the cheapest way to do a 5 lug conversion
dont know never did one

* better aftermarket radiator
better cooling, larger surface area in the radiator for the coolant to touch and dissapate heat better.

* electric fan
less parasitic draw on the engine, and generally a nice E-fan will cool alot better, but you need the alternator thats up to the task of the additional amp draw

* taking off the smog pump
mostly weight and to clear up clutter and clean things up, no performance increase beside the small weight savings, the smog pump shuts off at WOT so i doubt a difference will be felt. some people get a CEL when they take it off, you have to get a tune or get into the EEC's binary someway to truly disable the smog system to get rid of the CEL. the back of the cyl heads need plugged also where the air injector tube hooks up to them, and there is a tube of the midpipe that needs plugged or welded up, some aftermarket pipes done even have it there..

* ummmmm???
:shrug:

I have so many questions and so many things i want to do to my car, I love this car wish I had it when I was 17...or maybe not lol,

basicall im trying to build a 11 second weekend date car, something i can enjoy for fun throughout the years. its going to take more than the mods listed to run in the 11s, with the parts listed i can see solid 12 sec passes, but i dont see 11s with just that, add a shot of nitrous or a blower and you will definatly be in th 11s, may be able to run up on the 10s if you want to get serious...

so far i''ve got

lunati cam
afr heads
bassani x pipe w/cats (want them gone for the louder sound is that a hard removal if not how)
edel brocl intake
c&l 73mm
bbk CAI fender mount
19lb injectors going with 24lb.
gonna get a fuel pressure regulator, whats i good one to get?
if your going to run without a tune you can grab an adjustable FPR, it will give you a little ability to adjust AFR at WOT, the EEC should be able to compensate and still run stoichiometric during CL, but once you go WOT the car is in OL and if you jacked up the FP you will get richer AFRs in the cylinder..... my AFPR is from orielys, its borg warner i believe, the same as the aftermarket regulators and only cost 40 bucks, you may try a part store and see if they can find one....

there may be more im forgetting?
i'd suggest gears.. 3.73 is a good ratio for the street....

I want this car to stay naturally aspirated and what are the power benifits to a aluminum drive line? less rotating mass, doubt you would see a SOTP feel but its quite a bit lighter and stronger and a better balanced unit.

oh yeah i wanna lower it would 1 inch be fine for performance and handling?
i'm a staight line guy so i'm no expert on handling, but a lower center of gravity should help the cornering ability. i wouldnt expect just a lowering kit to help out much, when lowering the car your whole suspension geometry changes and to get the best handling you need to have the suspension adjusted to better suit the applicated, with adjustable control arms and C/C plates etc etc. lowering the car definatly hurts the drag racing part of it, lowering the car negativly affects weight transfer, doubt it would make much difference at lower power levels, but if you have some serious power running in the 12s or 11s i would bet it would hurt it more then.... wont be able to cut the fast 60's unless you tune your suspension for it. then you can lower the car for drag racing..

thats it for now i will be back to learn more from you guys, any advice on the best prices out there for parts please throw me some links =)
try summit they are pretty cheap..

I gave up sport bikes for this ride!!! got get it rolling like i want it now

-Cheers

-Jason Spalding

good luck...
 
if your going to run without a tune you can grab an adjustable FPR, it will give you a little ability to adjust AFR at WOT, the EEC should be able to compensate and still run stoichiometric during CL, but once you go WOT the car is in OL and if you jacked up the FP you will get richer AFRs in the cylinder..... my AFPR is from orielys, its borg warner i believe, the same as the aftermarket regulators and only cost 40 bucks, you may try a part store and see if they can find one....
That's not entirely true. From what I've read, the adjustments applied by adaptive learning are also
 
That's not entirely true. From what I've read, the adjustments applied by adaptive learning are also

adaptive is applied to OL conditions at the same load and maf readings AFAIK

adaptive is used in CL, in OL it applies these to the same loads, it learned in CL how far off the calculation is so in will apply the same multiplier in OL in attempt to bring the AFR closer to the commanded LAMBSEs

but since WOT is OL (and adaptive works only in CL), the adaptive can never "learn" at WOT conditions so it cant apply anything to WOT conditions because it never learned anything there... (and never can)

only difference AFAIK b/w WOT and OL is WOT has several mulitpliers it adds to spark and fuel, some people set their TPS WOT breakpoint so high the EEC can never get into WOT in attempt to do away with the multipliers, it can also be done by just simply nulling out all the WOT multipliers by making sure all the entries are just 1 so each multiplier will do nothing to the final PW caclulation....

i havent been tuning for too long but this is how i understand and i'm no tuning expert so someone who knows for sure will need to chime in and let us know the real answer...
 
I wouldnt waste time on a aftermarket oil pan. Stock ones work just fine.

If you are searching for the most power and best sound, go with longtube headers. If not longtubes, dont waste time and money on equal length shorties as they only make a couple hp more than regular short tube headers.

Definitely get a mid pipe. If you are going with longtubes, make sure to get one for them as the stocker or any made for short tubes wont work. Most will agree that H pipes produce a bit more low end torque whereas X pipes produce higher rpm hp. Ive also heard that chambered mufflers sound better with H pipes and Straight through mufflers sound better with x pipes.

The cheapest way of going to a 5 lug setup is going to a junkyard and snag parts from acceptable donors. Lots of writeup out there that cover it such as:
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/lug.html
http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/5lug.html
Just a couple of em...


Start your cooling system with a 180* thermostat. Unless you are overheating then there is no need for an aftermarket radiator.

Electric fans are nice because they replace the crank driven stock units and free up some hp. Cheapest way of getting one of these is also from a junkyard. Here is a good writeup:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.php

If you take off the smog pump you most likely wont pass emissions, so i hope your state/county doesnt test. But if your not worried about emmisions, than yank that thing out of there. You will free up some hp and drop some weight. You can either try to run a shorter belt or replace it with a free spin pulley.

Any ADJUSTABLE fuel pressure regulator will be fine. If you replace your 19lb injectors with 24s than make sure you get a new sample tube for the C&L MAF. Also, throw some subframe connectors on there and check your torque boxes.
 
Wow my mind is blown! haha alot great info and im a complete newbie

So i wont worry about a deeper oil pan, the car has sub frame connectors and 3:73 gears.
my exhaust set up is currently a set of ceramic coated shorties (dont know what brand) into a x pipe with cats running into an unknown muffler in the rear?

So would long tubes into a off road H-pipe with dumps sound like a BEAST and free up HP or would i want to run all the way back into some flow masters?

how hard is it gonna be to get into the 11's with out bottles or blowers?

If i sell my zx636 (sportbike) i would be interested in putting that money into a twin turbo set up for a future mod :nice:

but for now I wanna build this already nicely built car up a tad more enjoy it and learn learn learn, I have a wealth of knowledge with sportbikes but know nothing about cars, I do know I have loved fox boddies for ever and at 25 finally have my first one which i am stoked! and wanna buil it up so more:D

I will be focusing all my money into the motor and handling aspects of the car, an din the end get the cosmetics end of the deal done, the car is already immaculate but i have always wanted a bright red white race striped saleen winged cobra wheeled fox body....damn thats a sexy a** car! WHEEEEW!
 
NWJason, where are you located?

Hi, I live in Tacoma but work in Everett, yeah long drive but the stang is my babied weekend/date/fun/H.S. dream car.

currently im working with Andy from TMS (the mustang shop) in Auburn to get ideas on building up my car a little more and I was thinking of talking to Blood Enterprise about adding more HP those 2 buisnesses seam to be the most knowledgable in town that i can find.

deffinitley looking for more Foxes to cruise with, I am originally from Northern CA where these were the car to have when I was in HS, Im kinda bumed that i cant find many enthusiasts out here. In Sacramento I remeber a club of about 8-10 of the most gorgeous beastly sounding fox boddies would cruise the strip and i would stand at the bus stop drooling hahaha. Finally got one:D
 
Brad's Custom Auto in Seattle is the best local shop for the kind of stuff you're talking about. You might want to check out the Northwest section here on Stangnet as well as StangNation, which is a local board. We have a weekly Mustang only cruise-in at Kidd Valley Hamburgers in north Seattle every Saturday through the summer. Last weekend we had 50 cars there with LOTS of Fox cars. Details in the stickies in the NW section. Lots of good information there if you're willing to get out of your car and mingle. :rolleyes: