Break-in proceedure.

[DMAN302]

Ok so I now have my new mill under construction and this is what is going in it:
Forged pistons
Stock spec block
ARP fasteners
Comp XE270hr-12 cam, comp lifter and 1.6RR's
Edelbrock RPM heads 1.9/1.6 valves with mild port job
And the intake and such listed in my sig.
Now the thing is this engine will be completed about the end of October (my present mill stays in while this one get built) and sit on a stand untill spring....now is there anything I should do for maintenance while it sits all winter in my garage having never been started. Also as for break-in who goes out and pounds on her right away and who babies there mills for the first 500 cause I really don't drive mine hard now, so I don't know if going out and loading her up hard in the first 1000 miles it the answer. Let me know what you guy do when it comes time to welcome the new baby into the world.

 

[notchback501993]

I followed this guys advice: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm . My engine runs great!

 

[DMAN302]

What is ment by hard decelerating, just remove your foot from the throttle after a hard 3rd gear run up to 65mph?

 

[Michael Yount]

Hard decelerating is backing completely off the gas from a relatively high rpm in a lower gear.

I think way too much attention is paid to break-in procedures. Component materials and machine tools/procedures have changed drastically from the 60's. Hundreds of millions of new cars over the last 30 years are cranked for the first time on the assembly line with nothing more than a minute or two's worth of driving on a chassis dyno mainly to be sure nothing's leaking or broken, driven off the lot by their first owner with no idea of what 'break in' is, rarely have the oil changed until the first interval is called for by the manufacturer, NEVER have any engine retorquing done -- and the vast majority of these cars cover well over 100K miles without any particular problems.

Prime the oil system before you crank - check all pressures/temps for normal, check for no leaks or unusual noises, and then drive the car. After a few heat cycles, change the oil and filter. If you want to take it easy for a while - great. If you want to run it harder for a while - great. It's simply not that big a deal. Break it in the way that makes sense to you.

As for your motor - if the storage location isn't heated, I'd wait and build it in the spring if that's when it's going in. When a component like that sits in a spot where there are big shifts in temperature (fall, winter, early spring), condensation is gonna occur. With the heads on it, condensation is gonna occur inside the cylinders, and inside the rest of the crankcase. And you know what water on freshly machined metal does. If it's gotta sit in an unheated space -- Just leave the block on the stand, and lightly coat any machined surfaces/components with oil. Check it every now then to see how things are doing over the winter. Be careful about wrapping in plastic - that just seals in the condensation -- you want airflow around the stored components.

 

[DMAN302]

Thanks Mike, I find your posts to provide the most credible info around. I agree 100% with everything you have stated above, I was more curious as to wether there might be some trade secrete here. I should note I will be storing the mill at my Shop for the winter, it is heated and I think should provide a safe enviroment for it.
Thanks again,
Derek

 

[Michael Yount]

Cool Derek - it's heated, no condensation to worry about; just oil/lube stuff up good during assembly, and put something breathable over it to keep the dust out. You might throw a socket wrench on the crank bolt every now and then and rotate things a bit.

 

[DMAN302]

Mike would you recomend priming her with a drill on the dist maybe once every month? and if so how long do you run the drill (in reverse), and what speed...sorry for all the questions.
Again Tanx,
D

 

[Michael Yount]

It certainly wouldn't hurt anything priming it every now and then (counterclockwise - but you can't screw it up; if you turn it the wrong way, you'll feel no resistance in the drill; turn it the other way, you'll feel the drill working to turn the pump). But I doubt I'd do it on mine - provided you used liberal amounts of good assembly lube. I'd leave the plugs out (airflow to the cylinders) and just rotate the crank a turn or two every now and then.

 

[DMAN302]

Mike you is A1.

 

[Michael Yount]

Call my wife and tell her....

Good luck with the rebuild - let us know how the fire up goes next year.

 

[DMAN302]

I'll let you know for sure..as for wives the fire up should go as planned as long as the wife never finds out how much it really cost to build the fire..lol.

 

[Michael Yount]

Not that you asked - but 33 years of experience has told me it's best to face the 'wrath of Kahn' right up front. Confessions are dealt with much less harshly than cover-ups.

 

[DMAN302]

33 years has taught me you are right there my man. Fortunately I have a very understanding lady, she was even more understanding when I began the conversation regarding the new mill with the sentence..."Honey I've been thinking you're right a pool would look good here."

 

[extozy]

funny ass old people.

 

[MadMatt5oh]

33 is old? wow, Im 31 looks like I better move my 401k into more conservative funds. Perhaps, I should look at homes in Florida as well. You dont think Im being to hasty do you?

 

[CobraGT87]

Not that you asked - but 33 years of experience has told me it's best to face the 'wrath of Kahn' right up front. Confessions are dealt with much less harshly than cover-ups.

Scott

 

[Michael Yount]

Uh - I was referring to 33 years with the same partner....my daughter turns 30 in November - now SHE'S old!

 

[HighMileage]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


1. This guy is talking about built/rebuilt engines, not manufactured ones.
2. This guy's concern is not to break the engine on the track.


This is a competition-only guy. He's not talking about "break in" at all. What he's talking about is stress testing. He gives tips on how to break the engine at home, rather than on the track. I'd would say he built many engines that didn't make it on the track, so he devised this method. Pretty interesting.


I think his concerns, as a biker, are a little different from drag racers. I can see how this article would be good for someone who endurance races their built Mustang engines, especially if there is a trophy involved.

 

[Michael Yount]

I agree with HighMileage - and with a screen name like that, perhaps we should all listen.

 

[DMAN302]

yup!