Extremely Beat 68 Fast Back

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by horse sence, Apr 11, 2013.

  1. this poor thing has seen better days:ack: it has been partialy sandblasted and left to rust. the main structure and frame rails appear to be solid . the trunk floors ,outer wheel tubs, quarters tail panel rear trunk brace will all have to be replaced . going to do this one in fazes the rear half first.later the floor, all of the front approns ,radiator support and front cross brace will have to be replaced .the first step will be removing all the old scraps of sheet metal left then sand blast inside and out and epoxy prime before new sheet metal can be replaced using dynacorn sheet metal . it can be saved. IMG_3001.JPG IMG_3000.JPG IMG_3002.JPG IMG_3003.JPG IMG_3004.JPG
  2. Do you think it will need to sit on a fixture?
  3. leveled with adjustable jack stands and checked for square
  4. Is that your next project?
  5. customers car
  6. So what's the plan? Full resto, resto-mod, or bare minimum to make it drivable?
  7. make it a solid body again and get paid:nice:
    S&B and Noobz347 like this.

  8. LOL... well I kinda had an idea about YOUR end. I was more interested in owner's plan but I think you've answered that piece too. :lol:
  9. not realy sure what the owners plans are but probably to sell as a full body
  10. damn ,7.30 already.looks like i have to go to work. motor to build ,car to sand blast .gona be a long day
  11. i put the doors back on this morning and fit the best possible. they will be used to aid in the new quarter alignment. the lead line at the top of the quarters is next. use gloves ,long sleeve shirt safty glasses and dust mask here. i start by melting the lead a little at a time keeping the heat mostly at the lower part of the lead line so as not to warp the roof panel using a wire brush to brush away the hot lead. when as much lead as can be brushed off is gone i lightly heat in small areas and wipe with a dry rag ,nice and clean.ran out of gass on the driver side but it it is clean enough to see the welds.now the welds are visable and can be drilled with a spot weld cutter. next step will be to sand blast the edges where ever there is spot welds so the welds are clear and visable.you can also hand sand or paint strip to find the welds. IMG_3030.JPG IMG_3031.JPG IMG_3032.JPG IMG_3033.JPG IMG_3034.JPG IMG_3035.JPG
  12. brought out R2 D2 the little sand blaster:rlaugh: .this is a harbor freight unit and it works very well for small things. dude screwed me over about 15 years ago for $300 but left his sandblaster :nono:i have made a lot more than $300 off this little blaster so i look at it as an investment:stick:
    blasted the edges of the panels i will be removing and then used a wire wheel to bridghten up the welds. they shine and will be easy to find now. IMG_3036.JPG IMG_3037.JPG IMG_3038.JPG IMG_3040.JPG
  13. Maybe my current project has toughened my skin a little but looks like a good platform to start with. Only problem is since he is paying you to do it. Seems like a Dynacorn full body would be more cost effecient for your customer.
  14. yeah ,the under structure is very sound .he will be comming out far better than the cost of a dynacorn body and no vin # issues
  15. Shop rates must be very reasonable.
  16. i trimed off the scraps of sheet metal. the guy from the San Jose plant here in cali. back in 67 -68 that spot welded these bodies realy put them together, i recognize his work. the spot welds are over laped like fish scales. very hard to cut apart. it still looks prety sad but i will be blasting and primering tomarrow it will look a lot better then .every thing is solid ,no rot, just rusty from being blasted and left in the weather. after blasting and primer it will be time to level it up and square it and start replacing sheet metal. IMG_3060.JPG IMG_3061.JPG IMG_3062.JPG IMG_3063.JPG
  17. You definitely have a lot of work ahead of you!
    Can't wait to see how it turns out.
  18. it's realy no worse than doing a conversion,except i have to do the trunk floors this time .off to get sand and primer .i want to get finnished early this morning it is supossed to get around 90 degrees today,to hot ,to soon:drool:
  19. it's realy no worse than doing a conversion,except i have to do the trunk floors this time .off to get sand and primer .i want to get finnished early this morning it is supossed to get around 90 degrees today,to hot ,to soon:drool:
  20. ok i got it blasted and primed ,if you blast any part of your car primer as soon as possible.i had a hard time getting the rust off where it had been blasted and left to sit. it came clean with a little work. every thing looks very solid i do not have to replace any structure. i sprayed the primer very heavy and turned the nozel down and sprayed up inside of every thing .it's time to level it up and start on the panel replacement.it may take a bit to actualy get started ,very very busy IMG_3065.JPG IMG_3066.JPG IMG_3067.JPG IMG_3068.JPG IMG_3069.JPG IMG_3064.JPG