Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

#2,301
a91what said:
Well some new developments. Don't know if it has anything to do with the bucking and popping but....

I ran the car and got the knock when I got home, then removed the belt to help isolate the sound... except there was no longer a knock.
Put belt back on and the knock is back loud as ever, I went and got a piece of wood to use as a makeshift stethoscope. Sure enough I think the blower has begun to eat itself. Goes away with rpm but is loudest at the blower, then sheet metal intake I have on it likely amplified the sound.
While this sucks I at least have a starting point. Still does not explain the backfire though
Click to expand...
When you take the blower belt off, you remove a lot of load on the front of the crank.....
 

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#2,303
Depends. I am listening to your video on a 4 year old Samsung tablet, speaker quality leaves a lot to be desired. I may not be hearing the noise in the correct way to really offer anything other than gut feeling. I suppose it is possible that the rotors in the S/C are hitting each other with no load and causing the sound you are hearing, but I really can't tell from this far away. Lol.
 
#2,304
Well i appreciate the input either way, its better to have a direction to begin with than feel around in the dark on my own lol.

I am half decent at tuning and can make things work that others would otherwise not attempt, but when it comes down to it i need help with some of the troubleshooting when things dont go the way i hope they will.... I am at a loss where to begin most of the time which is why i ask the contingent and rely on the opinions within.

so even if it is a shot in the dark from where i am standing its a great idea!

Nothing i build has a tech support number that i can call. The backfire issue is driving me nuts, i cant pin it down it has done this ever since i put this thing together with the new ignition system. I just cant figure out what is going wrong.. :scratch: I have replaced the coil packs and wires checked the wiring harness and replaced the VR sensor... the only thing i can think of beyond what i have done is completely rerouting the plug wires so they dont run near the wiring harness [will need another set of wires so i can use just the long ones] AND OR pull the loom off the wiring harness and shield them with some kind of braided covering or even tinfoil wrapped around them would work i think. i dont see any induced noise on the sensor inputs but i cannot see what is going on in the wiring between the vr sensor and the EDIS8 module or from the module to the coil packs.:shrug:

If you know any one that may have experience dealing with these things tag them plz i want to drive my car.
 
#2,305
a91what said:
Well i appreciate the input either way, its better to have a direction to begin with than feel around in the dark on my own lol.

I am half decent at tuning and can make things work that others would otherwise not attempt, but when it comes down to it i need help with some of the troubleshooting when things dont go the way i hope they will.... I am at a loss where to begin most of the time which is why i ask the contingent and rely on the opinions within.

so even if it is a shot in the dark from where i am standing its a great idea!

Nothing i build has a tech support number that i can call. The backfire issue is driving me nuts, i cant pin it down it has done this ever since i put this thing together with the new ignition system. I just cant figure out what is going wrong.. :scratch: I have replaced the coil packs and wires checked the wiring harness and replaced the VR sensor... the only thing i can think of beyond what i have done is completely rerouting the plug wires so they dont run near the wiring harness [will need another set of wires so i can use just the long ones] AND OR pull the loom off the wiring harness and shield them with some kind of braided covering or even tinfoil wrapped around them would work i think. i dont see any induced noise on the sensor inputs but i cannot see what is going on in the wiring between the vr sensor and the EDIS8 module or from the module to the coil packs.:shrug:

If you know any one that may have experience dealing with these things tag them plz i want to drive my car.
Click to expand...

You don't have your VR sensor shielded? I thought that was mandatory due to the plug wires giving interference. I would defiantly recommend shielding them just to mark that off the list of possible issues.

Have you emailed Matt Cramer at DIYAutoTune to see if he could help as well?
 
#2,306
stanglx2002 said:
You don't have your VR sensor shielded? I thought that was mandatory due to the plug wires giving interference. I would defiantly recommend shielding them just to mark that off the list of possible issues.

Have you emailed Matt Cramer at DIYAutoTune to see if he could help as well?
Click to expand...
I did use 2wire twisted pair with a shield grounded at the edis8 module. I have already contacted them and we tried to troubleshoot but because the VR sensor does not connect directly to the MS there is no trigger log.

If i cannot find a reasonable solution to the ignition issue and the engine and blower are easily fixable then i may consider using a tiny io to move the digital switches off the main board and use the main switch circuits to trigger the coil packs. I believe this setup should give me feedback from the VR circuit and i will be able to track missfire but only if i really have to.
 
#2,307
Sounds like a wobble to me. Give it throttle, centrifugal force forces the shaft to load the bearing, and it rides the side of the bearing ( noise disappears) allow the engine to idle, wobble returns, what ever is slopping around is making that clank.
Is the front drive on the blower removable? Can there possibly be a bearing in the drive of the huffer that has wallowed?
 
#2,308
CarMichael Angelo said:
Sounds like a wobble to me. Give it throttle, centrifugal force forces the shaft to load the bearing, and it rides the side of the bearing ( noise disappears) allow the engine to idle, wobble returns, what ever is slopping around is making that clank.
Is the front drive on the blower removable? Can there possibly be a bearing in the drive of the huffer that has wallowed?
Click to expand...
yes just like the m90 this is fully re buildable, spins freely by hand no grinding or clanking. it does have a questionable amount of miles on it, complete disassembly will hopefully make it apparent. still doing the comp and leak down test and going to check the rockers, i need to pin down the cause of the missfire.
 
#2,310
Pulled plugs and the first thing I said was WTF?!?
This thing runs lean at cruise and idle 14.7-15.5
Wot in boost 12.3......

Why do the plugs look so damn sooty? Either the wb is reading incorrectly or I'm burning oil. What do these plugs say to you guys?
20180224_113647.jpg
20180224_113706.jpg
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I know it's not a intake gasket leaking I am able to see them when I pull the blower but I will check again when I have it off the car.

The oil has to be from inside the engine there are no gasket leaks on the outside.

Compression test in a few minuets
 
#2,311
20180224_134352.jpg
compression numbers by cylinder, I went ahead and tested the lowest 2 wet and it concludes the rings are toast. This was all done cold if it matters.

The low compression and bad plugs may be the cause of the backfire issue with a wasted spark setup.??

Either way I think my fun is over.


I don't have a leak down tester So I just put compressed air at top dead center I got a lot of air coming out of the valve covers even on the good cylinder
 
#2,312
a91what said:
20180224_134352.jpg
compression numbers by cylinder, I went ahead and tested the lowest 2 wet and it concludes the rings are toast. This was all done cold if it matters.

The low compression and bad plugs may be the cause of the backfire issue with a wasted spark setup.??

Either way I think my fun is over.


I don't have a leak down tester So I just put compressed air at top dead center I got a lot of air coming out of the valve covers even on the good cylinder
Click to expand...
Here's the answer to the blow down compression tester problem...
Click to enlarge the tiny picture.
blow down compression tester.gif
 
#2,313
All that aside, a friend stopped by today and gave me a hand with some load testing. The blower is definantly the problem, we load tested the engine by clutching out against the ebrake. I figured it was a good test to liken acceleration load.

With the belt removed the car was breathing through a 1" tube, the engine did load up some and missfire but nothing spectacular. We assume the bad plugs have something to do with it.
Engine never knocked or made any odd noises.

Belt on the blower, knocking was audible as load increased the knocking became louder, then it sounded as if the world was ending. The engine ground to a halt but restarted easily.
I believe the blower knock and the backfire issue are tied together, I have not had time to remove the blower yet to look at the damage. When I do I will post carnage pics, this is why we always rebuild junkyard blowers........
 
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#2,318
Good info, I have rebuilt one of these before on the m90, however I did that one with a press. I am interested to figure out what is being eaten by the Eaton for it to lockup while running like it is.

Very strange it does not have the issue or any tight spots turning it by hand.
 
#2,319
From that guy's post up there said:
A few things to note if you are not sure you need to rebuild yours. If you hear any noise (mostly at idle) and it goes away with a bit of throttle, chances are your snout bearings are worn and/or bad coupler (the coupler is a little round bushing like piece that wears the holes where it sits and can become noisy).
Click to expand...
 
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