n/a aode...what kind of numbers?

Killercanary said:
Now we're talking!!!

P.S.- R.C., I just read that part I wrote and it seems like I'm mad... I'm not, I was just explaining why I went a little :OT: There's no flame intended.:nice:

:lol:

I think you and I are on good enough terms that we dont take a comment as a :flame: , unless we actually call the other an A$$hole! :rlaugh:

Losses: Went from 189HP/249TQ to 203/278 with the Converter alone...7% increase in HP from one mod.(and the stall was for the Blower, and the Blower wasnt on yet)

Usually 20-25% losses on stock AODE, 10-15% on Manual...The 7% gets me closer, but also allows me to launch at higher RPM.

UNCLE JACK:
Somebody offer some info here, I often wonder how far behind the 5 speed guys I am
WHen you say "close" depends. Youre really close in HP..As far as close at the track, depends on the driver. I probably couldnt break 13.0 in Killer's car, but he is under 12.5.

The AODE with converter will beat the 5-speed with similar mods if that driver is unskilled. With the same driver making a pass in each, the 5-speed probably wins if he is a skilled driver.

The cool thing about the PI Stallion, is when Im on the highway, say at 50MPH, and I gun it, there is the millisecond delay for the Vortech to throw you back, then there is a 2nd millisecond delay on the Stallion kicking in and throwing you back even more :nice:

GOOD LUCK!
RC
 
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gcomfx.com said:
Are there no other N/A AODE guys on here? I'm looking forward to a rebuild with heads and cam next year.... just curious what the best setup is for us "slower guys" -- lol

I am pretty much dead stock on my '95 coupe, i run about 15.2 (Yes, I still have 2.73 gears) I have 3.73s ready to go in, but I would like to put in a low end supercharger. I hate hitting the darn rev limiter...

My son has a 95 vert, and his best N/A is 14.4 on all season radials, and he's a BIG guy and has all teh options - Mach460, leather, etc.
His mods on that run are:

Flowmaster cat back
3.73 gears
FRP pulleys
K&N FIPK
Lentech valve body
B&M shifter

He has an E-Cam, slicks and a 3000 stall TQ converter to install for next years runs. I figure for sure he'll be in the 13's next year without anything else.


:nice:
 
the setup im currently working on is as such
Trickflow Street intake (awsome piece of hardware!)
shorty (equal length) headers
prochamber
-------what hp # u think this setup has?

upcomming
CAI
pulleys
gears
t/b
----------and all of them together # ?

what do u think ill be putting down when these mods are complete, by the way whats the stock rwhp of a 94 5.0 gt AODE? i was under the impression it was 215, sounds like alot less the way you guys are talking?

keep it real
-wood
ps: its a coupe
 
mr_woodster said:
what do u think ill be putting down when these mods are complete, by the way whats the stock rwhp of a 94 5.0 gt AODE? i was under the impression it was 215, sounds like alot less the way you guys are talking?

215 is stock at the crank..

about 25% loss in the AODE = about 170HP to the wheels :( :nonono: :notnice:

With Gears (dont count in dyno), Headers, X pipe, Flows, pulleys, K&N, my car dynoed 189 at the wheels. That is a gain of about 20 hp to the wheels, which I think is about right for those mods. (8-10 for pulleys, and 10 for exhaust/headers).

RC
 
Holly, man i was way off...man this aode sucks power like no other! the freakn awd cars have 25%loss in the drive-train!!! What would be the cheaper/better route to cut back on this massive loss?

A:convert to 5speed
b: shift kit + stall converter

and what would be the better choice for a daily driver, weekend warrior setup?

its hard to picture a v8 only putting down less than 200hp at the wheels...that i just wrong.

keep it real
-wood

( :nonono: gonna hafta go blown just to get it past the 25% loss )
 
94GTLaserRC said:
215 is stock at the crank..

about 25% loss in the AODE = about 170HP to the wheels :( :nonono: :notnice:

With Gears (dont count in dyno), Headers, X pipe, Flows, pulleys, K&N, my car dynoed 189 at the wheels. That is a gain of about 20 hp to the wheels, which I think is about right for those mods. (8-10 for pulleys, and 10 for exhaust/headers).

RC

just wondering RC, are you still using the underdrive pulleys with your vortech?

I can't believe theres that much of a gain with pulleys.

what band pulleys are you using?

thanks
 
94GTLaserRC said:
As stated before, The Stallion bumped me from 189 to 203 HP and 249 to 275 tq.

I chose that route b/c I like the AODE. Others here have converted to t-5. That is YOUR choice.

GOOD LUCK!
RC

im not awsomely familar with a new tq converter, how would having a 2500-3000 stall affect daily driving, i mean i dont want to peel out at every light (just some of them :nice: ) also what am i looking at as far as pricing if i go with a shift kit and converter?

keep it real
-wood
 
As stated before in this thread, automatic dyno number are usually quite inaccurate representations of how much power is actually getting to the wheels. What throws it off is that the slippage when unlocked makes the engine speed higher compared to the wheel speed (or road speed) that the dyno expects to see, say from a manual car.

The torque converter serves the function of multiplying torque going into the transmission istead of the more direct approach taken by manual transmissions. Which means that, when setup properly, the auto will technically put more power to the pavement over a broader area than the manual.

As for dyno numbers, I saw a comparison somewhere, using an AODE I think. One run made with the converter unlocked and one with it completely locked up. The locked up numbers were substantially higher than that of the unlocked run. The car had been swapped to an automatic from a 5spd, and the dyno numbers from the "locked-up" converter run were within about 5 or 6 hp of the 5sp runs. That 5 or 6 hp could either be drivetrain loss, or anything else for that matter.

Man, I wish I could find that article, again. :bang:


We had 215 hp stock? Wow, I completely forgot that! :banana:
 
Put the car on the dyno today. Did 280 hp, and god knows what torque. It was free so i didnt complain, however, his dynojet computer was having problems reading rpm, so they did not include torque/rpm graph numbers.

The guy told me if i didnt have an auto he would have put money on me breaking 300.

Im pretty pleased i guess. I pulled that number with stock torque converter, stock fuel injectors and mass air flow. And with shorty headers. I have no doubt that i could break 300 with longtubes, a custom burned chip, and upgraded air/fuel system. Just stuff to upgrade when the vortech gets in. But first the torque converter!

Oh, and the best part is that i beat a 4.6 98 gt with a supercharger on :p
 
50_Dave said:
Put the car on the dyno today. Did 280 hp, and god knows what torque. It was free so i didnt complain, however, his dynojet computer was having problems reading rpm, so they did not include torque/rpm graph numbers.

The guy told me if i didnt have an auto he would have put money on me breaking 300.

Im pretty pleased i guess. I pulled that number with stock torque converter, stock fuel injectors and mass air flow. And with shorty headers. I have no doubt that i could break 300 with longtubes, a custom burned chip, and upgraded air/fuel system. Just stuff to upgrade when the vortech gets in. But first the torque converter!

Oh, and the best part is that i beat a 4.6 98 gt with a supercharger on :p
very impressive 50_dave, thats pretty much the same setup im looking at down the road, alread have the trickflow intake +short(equal) headers and prochamber. How much a difference did the shift kit make for you? and also what was the $$ on it? (sorry so many questions about $$ , just trying to get a good idea of what it takes to get this aode into this century)

keep it real
-wood
 
well, when i had my tranny rebuilt, i got a lifetime warranty, and had all hardened materials put in. One of the things the tranny guy did for me, was add the manual valve body with the rebuild. I spent 1700 bucks on the rebuild, and get a lifetime warranty on it.

My first to second shift is instant, as is my second to third. I break the tires lose i shift so firm into second. Being that i dont have a custom chip burned, just a chip with the rev limiter bumped up to 6300, it makes it nice being able to shift right at 6 grand. You will see a good .2 off your time with a shift kit if you dont have your shift points already programed for you.

No problem with the questions, i have just as many as you do im sure. As far as the shorty headers, who makes them? I went with ceramic coated shorty unequals because of how of a pain it was to work around my shorty equals from mac.
 
50_Dave said:
No problem with the questions, i have just as many as you do im sure. As far as the shorty headers, who makes them? I went with ceramic coated shorty unequals because of how of a pain it was to work around my shorty equals from mac.

Yep, using Mac's 1 5/8 equal lenght shorty headers (HTS coating)to a 2.5 prochamber. The equals were not that big of a pain on driverside, but it was a real butt on the passengerside, due to smog equipment. Originally we were goin to go with unequals, but mac didnt have them in stock ( i live fairly close to there showroom/manufacturing facility in southern california). Either way im pretty pleased with the looks and performance, deffinalty liven'd up the rear tone :nice: one of these days ill post a sound clip....one of these days !

keep it real
-wood
 
94GTLaserRC said:
:rolleyes: ummm...Who said Im using underdrives?

RC

well you said you were running pulleys before and i saw your post on corral about a chromed water pump pulley:

Chrome Water Pump Pulley..94/95
This is a stock chromed WPP off my 94.
Swapped it out for a smaller cobra wpp.

Check out Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...item=2442252949

RC


the cobra that you replaced it with came factory with underdrive pulleys, didn't they?

i was just curious if you could still use pulleys with a supercharger (i know you can't with the crank pulley)?
 
Dan95-5.0 said:
well you said you were running pulleys before and i saw your post on corral about a chromed water pump pulley:
the cobra that you replaced it with came factory with underdrive pulleys, didn't they?
i was just curious if you could still use pulleys with a supercharger (i know you can't with the crank pulley)?

No...You got it backwards...An underdrive pulley for the water pump, is LARGER, not smaller. I had underdrives before..

NOW, my alt is stock, and my WPP is an OVERDRIVE..pumps more water. When the blower went on, I put the stock WPP back on (smaller than underdrive). The Vortech belt didnt quite clear, so I went with the smaller Cobra pulley, which again is overdrive.

Hope that clears it up...! BTW...That pulley sold.!
RC
 
94GTLaserRC said:
No...You got it backwards...An underdrive pulley for the water pump, is LARGER, not smaller. I had underdrives before..

NOW, my alt is stock, and my WPP is an OVERDRIVE..pumps more water. When the blower went on, I put the stock WPP back on (smaller than underdrive). The Vortech belt didnt quite clear, so I went with the smaller Cobra pulley, which again is overdrive.

Hope that clears it up...! BTW...That pulley sold.!
RC

cool. thanks for the info. :nice:

i didnt know that the cobra WPP was an overdrive.
 
I know this is a super old post but I'd like to tell you about my 94 vert w/aode.

It has a 331 stroker in it with all the bolt ons. On the dyno it made 307hp/321tq to the wheels. I was very happy with that but I'm sure it could have been much better.

At the track I was able to pull a 12.78 at 108 with a 1.93 short time. Out of about 13 runs, 8 or so were in the 12.8/12.9 range and the rest were in the 13.0 range. That was on 18" BFG DRs too. I was only launching at around 2200rpms that time out. I'm heading back to the track tomorrow 6/4 to try and launch harder to hopefully better my 60' times and get a trap speed around 110 and a 12.5 timeslip.

Hope this helps show what is possible with a heavy vert and aode.

Tony