Rear gas tank and front tilt hood pics..

OK everyone i finally came around to start painting my car. I decided i would add some piping to my air line compressor and a better air/drying filter. So i went to home depot to buy some pipe and it took me about all morning like 4 hours to finish.. It was around 3 when i decided to start painting. had car ready cleaned and dust free, walls all cover in plastic, weather at perfect maybe 90. I set up my gun, towels, tack cloth, suited up. mask.mixed my sealer.started spraying sealer on. everything going well. when it came down to putting my basecoat, first spray not even done with one side my car paint seemed like it wanted to run,,,,(it looked like that krinkle paint you see on flower pots where you paint first coat then second different, then it starts to look like its cracking. the you see the paint underneath. Thats how it looked, so i decided i keep painting since I had mixed my basecoat why waste...I painted everything. so i went around one more time to cover the spots that where showing through ,, even waited for my recomended flash time spray again. it started sagging at some points,,,, looked so bad that i actually stopped not to make it worst..then i wondered if i mixed right??? I was so mad:mad:...that i emptied my gun ,just threw some laquer thinner in the gun until it ran cleaned then remade a new batch... Same thing happened.. what a waist of paint.. Emptied my gun ran more thinner, turned everything off. went inside.. Frikking mad.Didn't even clean my gun. Then I went throught the whole thing checked my computer to see what could i have done wrong..everything was perfect except i looked at my currenttemperature in my computer it said 75degrees.. i guess it had cool down to where my paint wouldn't flash/dry correct... :mad:..My basemaker was for very high temp 90+..DUMB ASS!! thinking i wouldn't have enough paint.. i had called it a loss..NExt day i went into my garage car didn't seemed that bad . some runs some crakling.. so i said wet sand the bad spots and with the little paint i have left blend in those spots.. i even took the day off from work to try to save my car, since i only had 24 hours if i wanted to recoat without scuffing the whole car for clear coat,(thats what it said on the can it has to dry to a matte finish and should not be sanded).. well anyways i got everything set up AGAIN. spray my spot blended in with paint and had enough to go around the whole car and more .. I got really happy,,,,,,, Started clear coating.......but didn't really liked my finish its not as smooth as my engine bay and other stuff,,, It looked like orange peel in some spots after the clear.. So will have to do some wetsanding and polishing. Started putting car together noticed some small specs of dust.. oh well what can i expect for my first time...LOL.. Going to plish it to see how it turns out.. Sorry about the long story and my repeated words,mispells.. Had to vent a little,,:D.. well here are some pictures i took today , dusty but still looks ok..NOw everything looks dirty and really rusty...lol

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NOt the best pictures BUT oh well i will post some more later...
 
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I wish I could have seen the paint cracks you were talking about. What brand paint and clean did you use? The temperature should make too much of a difference. If you had high temp products and used them in low temp it would just take longer to dry. So if the flash time is 15 minutes between coats wait like 25 or 30. Just touch the tape above where you painted and make sure your finger doesn't stick to it. Same with the clear. Touch the tape where the clear is sprayed and if it pulls a little bit on your finger, (like a spider web) then you're ready for the next coat. If is doesn't pull like a spider web and your finger just goes in and comes out, wait another 10 minutes and try again.

Also, did you have a fan going in there to push all the fumes/overspray outta there and away from the car?
 
I've had some problems with it before. With Sikkens, if we had a break thru and had to respray it, everything you put on top of it would wrinkle the fresh underlying sealer. Flash times are very finicky with sealer. It just seems really really tempermental. A well prepped primer sanded to 600 is a perfect base to spray on.
 
thats from not using the correct temp activator and not waiting enough time to start base coating I think. That was my case when I painted a rear for a t-bird candy apple. Thats why sealer is the devil, its very very tempermental.
 
Well whatever it was i don't like it as much as my engine bay turned out. But well see what happends when its buffed... If it turns out that bad i will repaint down the road again. but at least it won't be that hard i wont have to do my jams and engine bay or do a color change im happy as of now...LOL. Like i said have to see it after the sanding and buffing...
 
I've had some problems with it before. With Sikkens, if we had a break thru and had to respray it, everything you put on top of it would wrinkle the fresh underlying sealer. Flash times are very finicky with sealer. It just seems really really tempermental. A well prepped primer sanded to 600 is a perfect base to spray on.

I 100% agree with this. The reason I like the sealer so much is because both cars I've used it on, I have had no shrinkage down the line. Any spots that are grinded on with 24, or 80, or even 150, then primed with Nason 2K Urethane always seemed come back like 2 months later. I don't know why. Both cars I had major body work done on, using the same primer, when I sealed them, I had no shrinkage, ever. That's why I like it. But like you said...it is tempermental. It can run/drip...
 
Well not sure what happened i thought i did the same thing with my engine bay had no runs with my sealer. it was my basecoat when everything seem to be looking bad. i actually have a picture of how some parts look..... but its only on the door stricker part forgot to redo this part... some parts look like when you force dry paint and its to hot or when you accidently drop some laquer thinner on fresh wet paint(NOT THAT I DONE THAT BEFORE:D)..it looked like it was crinkling... Its kind of hard to described i should of taken a picture dam it....the next day when i saw it i could only see where the painted crinkle it looked like when someone does a bad bondo job after paint then it starts to crack like my brothers car(LOOKING OVER SHOULDER:D)

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Heres what i did last night... the wing is on the tail lights are on temporarly. i need to take off some tape marks from previous taping that i did. (Dont use cheap tape guys you end up spending more money....Tip!!!)So heres how it looks without the licence plate.. Have to polish up the tail lights... but starting to look better...
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You're ready to buff, most clears air cure in about 16 hours. Force dry in 4 hours I think its ready to buff. If you have to Dupont number of the clear you used I have a Dupont info book and can look it up for you so you know for sure!
 
Yeah you're good to wetsand and rub. I usually wait two-three days in this crappy weather we have here 50 degrees right now. In the summer I'll paint in the morning, and rub it not the next day but the day after. If it's warm where you are...you're good.
 
Yeah you're good to wetsand and rub. I usually wait two-three days in this crappy weather we have here 50 degrees right now. In the summer I'll paint in the morning, and rub it not the next day but the day after. If it's warm where you are...you're good.


Thanks... Yeah weather is getting hotter over here it like having my very own oven in my garage...lol
 
SVT32VDOHC Would you happen to know what sand paper to use and what polishing comppound?Is it 1500 for the sandpaper.. I want to start polishing this weekend I'm off saturday and sunday so I want to invest my time on the stang...Any tips? I was going to take it in to get it done but I've done everything so might as well do it myself...I've seen it get done on a black buggy my friend had but it was a single stage. Would it be the same?