Discussion in 'Feedback Area | Testing Zone' started by VibrantRedGT, Apr 29, 2004.

  1. Table of Contents
    1. Heads-Flow Rates.
    2. Intakes-Flow Rates.
    3. Cams-Top 10 off the shelf cam specs.
    4. Mufflers-Horsepower and decibel shootout.
    5. Mass Air Meters-Flow Rates.
    6. Throttle Bodies-Flow Rates.
    7. Stangnet User Combo's-Which combo will work best for you?
    8. Edelbrock Intake Install-How To with pics.
    9. Window Lift Bushing Install-How To with pics.
    10. Misc How To's-Links to many tech articles.
    11. Rocker Arm-Installation Instructions.
    12. Cooling Section-Fan Switch How To and many diagrams (ccrm, etc.).
    13. Timing-How to adjust timing.
    14. Abbreviations and functions-Many sensor abbreviations (IAC, ECT, ACT, etc.).
    15. Production Numbers-By year and color codes.
    16. Cobra Specs-All about the 94-95 Cobra.

    Thanks for all those who participated. This is what I have so far. If you have anything we could add to this then e-mail me. This should help with all those What cam?, Which head?, etc. questions.

    1. HEADS-Flow Rates For 18 Different Heads

    How much flow do you want? Which head is best?


    2. Intake Flow Rates (few of them)-


    1.Stock 5.0 E8ZE-6250-CA, Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.444,
    Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.6 rockers-.444, Duration Intake (at .050)-204, Duration Exhaust (at .050)-204, Lobe Center-116, Emissions Legal-Yes

    2.X303, Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.542, Valve Lift Exhaust
    w/1.6 rockers-.542, Duration Intake (at .050)-224, Duration Exhaust (at .050)-224, Lobe Center-112, Emissions Legal-No

    3.Lunati 50017, Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.500, Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.6 rockers-.510, Duration Intake (at .050)-218, Duration Exhaust (at .050)-226, Lobe Center-112, Emissions Legal-No

    4.B303, Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.480, Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.6 rockers-.480, Duration Intake (at .050)-224, Duration Exhaust (at .050)-224, Lobe Center-112, Emission Legal-No

    5.Crane 2040, Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.498, Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.6 rockers-.498, Duration Intake (at .050)-220, Duration Exhaust (at .050)-220, Lobe Center-110, Emissions Legal-Yes

    6.Crane 2030, Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.533, Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.6 rockers-.544, Duration Intake (at .050)-216, Duration Exhaust (at .050)-220, Lobe Center-112, Emission Legal-Yes

    7.Crower 15511, Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.468, Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.6 rockers-.486, Duration Intake (at .050)-218, Duration Exhaust (at .050)-224, Lobe Center-114, Emission Legal-Yes

    8.Crane 2031, Valve Lift Intake w/1.7 rockers-.513, Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.7 rockers-.529, Duration Intake (at .050)-214, Duration Exhaust (at .050)-220, Lobe Center-112, Emissions Legal-Yes

    9.Steeda #19, Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.480, Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.6 rockers-.480, Duration Intake (at .050)-220, Duration Exhaust (at .050) w/1.6 rockers-226, Lobe Center-115, Emission Legal-Yes

    10.E303, Valve Lift Intake w/1.6 rockers-.498, Valve Lift Exhaust w/1.6 rockers-.498, Duration Intake (at .050)-220, Duration Exhaust (at .050) w/1.6 rockers-220, Lobe Center-110, Emissions Legal-Yes



    Results based on 5.0 Mustang Magazine December 2002 issue (page 55). Test car is a ’90 Coupe with 370 HP and 11 second potential. A number of 66 pulls were made to compile this information. Where does your muffler stack up?

    The results in HP order:

    1.Flowtech Warlock (open) 374.2 hp/ 333.1 tq
    2.Bassani Real Street 373.7 hp/ 333.8 tq
    3.Hooker Maxflow 373.5 hp/ 333 tq
    4.Borla XS 373.3 hp/ 332.6 tq
    5.Magnaflow 372.8 / 332.5 tq
    6.MAC 372.3 hp / 331.5 tq
    7.Flowtech Afterburner 372.3 hp/ 330.1 tq
    8.Hooker Aerochamber 372.1 hp/ 330.4 tq
    9.Bassani 372 hp/ 333.5 tq
    10.Spintech 371.6 hp/ 332.2 tq
    11.Edelbrock Performer RPM 370.9 hp / 331.3 tq
    12.Borla XR1 370 hp/ 334 tq
    13.Flowtech Terminator 369.5 hp / 331.3 tq
    14.Dynomax Ultra Flo 369.4 / 333.2 tq
    15.Flowmaster 369.4 hp / 331.8 tq
    16.Flowtech Warlock 366.3 hp / 325.3 tq
    17.No muffs 365.2 hp / 330.1 tq

    Sound Off in Quietest to Loudest (Decibels):

    1.Borla XS, 80db at idle, 90db at 2,000 rpm, 110db at WOT.
    2.Hooker Maxflow, 80db at idle, 90db at 2,000 rpm, 120db at WOT.
    3.Magnaflow, 82db at idle, 91 at 2,000 rpm, 114db at WOT.
    4.Flowmaster, 82db at idle, 93 at 2,000 rpm, 115db at WOT.
    5.Flowtech Warlock, 83db at idle, 92 at 2,000 rpm, 112db at WOT.
    6.Dynomax UltraFlo, 83db at idle, 94 at 2,000 rpm, 113db at WOT.
    7.Borla XR1, 83db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, 118db at WOT.
    8.Bassani Street, 83db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, 120db at WOT.
    9.Edelbrock RPM, 84db at idle, 93db at 2,000 rpm, 118db at WOT.
    10.Bassani Real Street, 84db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, MAX. (120+db).
    11.Flowtech Afterburner, 86db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 115db at WOT.
    12.Flowtech Terminator, 86db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 119db at WOT.
    13.Hooker Aerochamber, 87db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 114db at WOT.
    14.SpinTech, 87db at idle, 97db at 2,000 rpm, 116db at WOT.
    15.MAC, 87db at idle, 98db at 2,000 rpm, 119db at WOT.
    16.No Muffler, 91db at idle, 103db at 2,000 rpm, MAX. (120+db).


    1.Stock 5.0L 58MM (89-93 Mustangs), 606 CFM
    2.Stock 5.0L 70MM (94-95 GT/Cobra Mustangs), 815 CFM
    3.Pro-M Bullet (75MM), 964 CFM
    4.Ford 80MM (Lightnings), 1017 CFM
    5.C&L 73MM, 1171 CFM
    6.Modified 80MM (Flow Bar Removed), 1368 CFM
    7.C&L 80MM, 1415 CFM
    8.Pro-M 77MM (Shorty/Supercharged Version), 1543 CFM
    9.Pro-M 77MM (Standard Version), 1562 CFM
    10.Pro-M 83MM, 1598 CFM
    11.Pro-M 80MM, 1612 CFM


    1.Ford Stock 5.0L 60MM, 526 CFM
    2.Accufab 65MM, 616 CFM
    3.BBK 70MM, 726 CFM
    4.Accufab 75MM, 845 CFM
    5.Accufab 90MM, 1225 CFM
    Which 94-95 Combo will work best for you? We have put together a few Stangnet user’s rides who have stout combo’s. We tried to represent each Manufacture (AFR, Edelbrock, TFS, etc.). It is broken out into N/A and Blower.

    Paul Riva (Killercanary)
    - 1995 Vert-12.31 at 111.15 MPH, 293 HP / 327 TQ, 1.76 Sixty Foot, 3,690 Race Weight

    Stock Block, AFR 165/60cc pedestal mount heads (box stock), Edelbrock Performer Intake (casting flash removed), Flow Tech Induction custom cam, 1.6 FMS rockers, 24lb FMS injectors, 190lph Walbro fuel pump, Kirban adjustable FPR, 75mm Pro-M/Granatelli MAF, 65mm FMS throttle body, FMS SS shorty headers, Bassani offroad X pipe, SS 2.5" flow tubes, Dynomax Welded Race Magnum mufflers, Stock tail pipes, ASP aluminum underdrive pulleys, Homemade CAI, EEC Tuner Stock 62K mile bottom end, DG ultrathin head gaskets, Global west subframe connectors, Global West LCA's (installed AFTER best ET), Hooker 4 point car bar, TKO tranny with 6 tooth inner/19 tooth outer speedo gears(installed AFTER best ET), Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, FMS aluminum DS (installed AFTER best ET), 4.10 FMS gears, 245-50-16 Nitto 555R street driven drag radials.

    Robbie Carter (2L8ULUZ2)
    -1994 GT-12.85 at 106.80 MPH, 307 HP / 328 TQ, 8.06 at 85.3 in the 1/8 mile, 7.56 at 95.86 in the 1/8 with 150 shot.

    Holley Systemax Heads part# 300-551-1, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, FMS E-303 Camshaft, Crane "cobra" 1.7 roller rockers, BBK/Edelbrock 70mm TB, C&L 76mm MAF, FMS 24# Injectors , Aeromotive Adj, Regulator, March Underdrives, Hooker Supercomp Equal Length headers, BBK Off road H-pipe, Dynomax Ultra Flo welded cat back, JMS Chip , KYB AGX Shocks and Struts, MT 26x10.5 ET Drag Tires, NOS 05115 Nitrous Kit (150hp).

    Jesse kuhlman (yellow1995Cobra)
    -1995 Mustang GT-12.734 at 107.09 MPH, 1.705 60 ft.

    GT40X Heads, B Cam, 1.72 rockers, Typhoon Manifold, 70mm Throttle Body, Pulleys, Stock Mass Air, Homeade CAI, BBK Unequal Shortie Headers, Offroad X-pipe, Magnaflow Catback, MSD 6AL, 24# Injectors, FMS 9mm wires, Auburn pro diff, 31 Spline axles, 3.90 gears, Cobra Computer, twEECer, Short belt (no ac/smog), D&D lower control arms, 50/50 Lakewood Drag Shocks, Nitto DR's.

    Robert Shuble (gmkillr)
    -1994 Cobra-12.97 at 106.15 MPH, 1.72 Sixty Foot.

    Stock GT40 (Iron) Cobra Heads, Stock Cobra Cam, Stock Cam, Stock 1.7 Rockers, Homemade CAI, Pro-M Bullet 75MM MAF, BBK 65mm t.b., BBK 1 5/8 shorty headers, MAC Prochamber, Summit Turbo Catback, Smog & Sgr Delete, 4.10 Gears, 255lph Fuel Pump, EEC-IV Extender, MAC Underdrive Pulleys, Aluminum Driveshaft, MM Caster Camber Plates, MM Full Llength Subframe Connectors, Lakewood 90/10 Struts, Lakewood 50/50 Shocks, Granatelli Front & Rear Coilovers, Pro3i Lower Control Arms w/ Spherical End.

    Tony Goon (Fiveotony)
    -1995 GT-13.03 at 105.48 MPH, 1.68 Sixty Foot, 290 HP, 3280 Race Weight

    FRPP GT40P Heads (Milled .020), FRPP E303 Cam (4 degrees retard), FRPP Timing Chain set and gears, FRPP “P” Headers, FRPP Cobra Intake, PPI 70 MM Throttle Body, 4.30 gears, FRPP 31 Spline Traction LOK Differential, 31 Spline Moser Axles, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, Asp underdrive pulleys, Unlimited Performance Power Pipe w/Big Mouth Filter, Pro-M 75 MM Bullet MAF, FRPP 30lb Injectors, Walboro 190 LPH, Kirban Adj. Fuel Pressure Regulator, Dynomax Bullet Mufflers w/ Turndowns, Off Road H pipe, Subframe Connectors, Steeda Heavy Duty Upper Control Arms w/ Poly Urethane Bushings, FRPP Heavy Duty Clutch with Unlimited Performance Firewall Adjuster and Aluminum Quadrant, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster Coil And 2 Step, Taylor 8MM Wires, 34 degrees of total timing, Pro 5.0 shifter w/ Steeda Tri-Ax handle, Steeda Shift knob, 1/2 inch Phenolic Intake Spacer, Dyna Mod Ignition Module, Superchips Chip, Holeshot Rims w/ 8.5 inch Slicks, ET Fronts, Best Autometer Phantom Gauges, Sport Comp Tach, With Sport Comp Fuel Pressure Gauge (outside of the car).

    Brad (green94droptop)
    -Mustang Vert, 13.05 at 105.67 MPH

    GT40X (Stage III Ported, Ferra 1.94/1.60 Valve, Milled to 62CC) Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, Cobra 1.7 Pedestal Roller Rockers, Crower 15511 camshaft (278*/282*, 218*/224* @.050, .498"/.529" lift, 114* LSA), FRPP 65mm TB, Pro-M 75mm MAF, MAC Fenderwell Cold Air, FRPP 24lb injectors, Walbro GSS340-high pressure 255lph Fuel Pump, 18* of timing, Generation 1 (plug and play) Performance Improvement Harness from Pro-M w/ A9L computer, MAC 1 5/8" Industrial Plated Unequal Headers, MAC 2.5" Off Road H-Pipe, 2 Chamber Flowmasters, Stock T-5 w/ Pro 5.0 Shifter, FRPP King Cobra Clutch, FRPP 3.73 Gears, FRPP C Springs, Tokico Premiums Shocks/Struts, J&M C/C Plates, Steeda Subframe Connectors w/ Crossbrace, Granetelli Motorsports Double Adjustable Upper CA's, Granetelli Motorsports Weight Jacker/Adjustable Lower CA's, 275/40/17" Nitto Drag Radials Running 20psi At Track And 26 On Street On Stock 8" Tri Bar Rims.

    Steve DeGrave (SmokingGT50)
    -95 Mustang GT Opal Frost-307 HP / 316 TQ

    Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads, Edelbrock RPM Intake, FRPP E303 Cam, BBK 70MM Throttle Body, C&L 73mm MAF, Bassani Full Length Headers, Bassani Off Road X-pipe, 3.73 Gears, Flowmaster Cat Back, FRPP 24# Injectors, AODE car Converted To Tremec 3550, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, Mac White Face Gauges, Bullit Shift Knob And Console Bezel, Cobra RR hood, Y2K Cobra R wheels w/ 275/35/18's. NOS Big Shot kit. TwEECer RT <-- Best money I have spent.

    Chris Holleman (venomsvt)
    -95 Mustang Cobra, Black-315 HP / 343 TQ

    306 CI, Forged Pistons, TFS TW Heads, TFS TrackHeat Intake, Crane 2031 Cam, FMS 65mm TB, Pro-M 75mm MAF, MAC CAI, BBK LT Headers, BBK Shorty H, 2 Chamber Flowmaster Catback, 255LPH FP, Kirban AFPR, BBK Underdrives, Autologic Chip By LaRocca's Performance, Steeda Tri-ax, SPEC Stage 2 Clutch, Steeda 3 PC Clutch Kit, FMS Alum D/S, FMS 3.73, SVO Girdle, Maximum Motorsports: C/C plates, LCA'S, Alum Rack Bushings, Subframe Connectors, Panhard Bar, Tokico Illumina 5-Way, H&R springs, Powerslot Rotors, SS Braided Lines, Flaming River Steering Shaft.


    Troy Chapman (Redsnk95)
    -95 Mustang, 11.42 at 123 MPH

    302 B50 block, Vortech V-1 T-trim, TFS R intake, 70mm BBK TB, 80mm Pro-M Meter, AFM Super Bypass Power Pipe, Vortech Mondo Bypass, AFR 185 64cc Pedestial Mount, 1.7 Crane Roller Rockers, FRPP E303 camshaft (~.528" lift w/ 1.7 rr's), Sieman Deka 55lb Low Impedence Injectors, Custom Fuel System, 3.55 Gears, T-56 Tranny, PMS.

    Kevin Prusinski (Ponyboy19)
    -1995 MUSTANG GT, 460 HP / 453 TQ.
    ATI procharger P1-SC Non Intercooled Supercharger 14# boost, Custom bent blower Tube, Trick Flow Heads (Box stock), Crower 15510 cam (LC 114 duration 212/212 lift .531/.531 @ .050), Edelbrock Performer Intake (box stock), Edelbrock 65MM Throttle Body, Double roller Timing Chain, FMS 1.6 Roller Rockers, 3/8 Phenolic Intake Spacer, 3.5" Pro-M Univer Mass Air Meter, Romac Alluminum 50oz balancer, 42lb Motorsport Injectors, Walbro GSS340 255lph, Vortech T-Rex Inline Auxillary Fuel Pump, Kirban Billet Fuel Pressure Regulator, 10.8-11.0:1 air fuel ratio, 17 degrees total timing, MSD 6AL Ignition, MSD Coil, Acell 300+ Cap/Rotor, Homemade Powerpipe, Saleen Equal Length 1 5/8 headers, MAC 2 1/2" Off Road H-Pipe, 2 1/2" Flowmaster 2 chambers With Dumps, Custom Chip And Dyno Tune.

    Ed (Zerort)
    -Mustang GT, 11.61 at 122 MPH
    Stock short block, Stock pistons-cam-lifters-waterpump-oil pump, etc., Stock T-5 Tranny, Edelbrock Heads (1.90 x 1.60) w/light Cleanup Work, 1.7 Cobra Rockers, Cobra intake w/ported Lower, Stock MAF, Stock fuel rails, Stock Balancer, 65 MM Throttle Body, FRPP 36 lb Injectors, S-Trim Vortech w/ Alternative Auto intake system, 2.95 Blower Pulley, Tuned w/Autologic Software, 3.73 rear gears, MAC long tube headers, MAC O/R H-pipe, DynoMax Super Turbo Mufflers, Flowmaster Tailpipes.


    Stu Collins (sdc13)
    -1995 Mustang GT Vert, 307 HP / 345 TQ

    Stock Heads, Stock Cam, Stock Intake, Stock Rockers, Stock Fuel System, Novi 2000 Pullied For 9#’s, MAC 1 5/8 Headers, Summit 2.5" Off Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster 2.5", 3.73, B&M Ripper, Paxton FMU, Custom Dyno Tune & Autologic Chip by Swanson's Performance, Saleen springs, KYB Shocks, Steeda Subs.

    Mike (OinkAodeOink)
    -1994 GT Vert, 316 HP / 307 TQ, 3570 lbs. W/Driver, 13.31 at 108 MPH.

    Stock Heads, Stock Cam, Stock Intake, Stock Fuel system, FMS 65MM TB, Pro-M 75 MM MAF, FMS 373 gears, B&M Shift Improver Kit, BBK Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, BBK Shorty Headers, BBK Off Road X-Pipe, Flowmasters 2 chamber Dumped, Vortech S-trim, AFM Powerpipe, ASP 7" Crank Pulley, 3.3" Blower Pulley, 12:1 FMU, BFG DR's 235X60X15, BBK 1.5 Inch Specific Rate Lowering Springs, Otherwise All Stock Suspension.

    Robert Colosimo (RC)
    -1994 GT, 386 HP / 392 TQ

    Polished Vortech SQ Trim, Chrome Power Pipe, Polished Power+Plus Intake, Polished BBK 70mm TB w/Polished Edelbrock Elbow, Pro-M 77mm MAM w/UPR Big Mouth Filter, 30# FMS Injectors, BBK Electric 255lph In Tank Pump, MSD 155lph In Line Pump, MSDD6BTM, MSD Coil Blaster, FMS 9mm Wires, FMS Ceramic Headers, Magnaflow X-Pipe, Flowmasters, 3.73's, Steeda Springs, Steeda C/C Plates, FMS Aluminum Driveshaft, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, 180* T-Stat, PA Shift Performance Kit, PI Stallion 2800 Stall Torque Converter, B&M SuperCooler.
  3. 8. Edelbrock Intake Install

    94-95 Edelbrock Performer 5.0 Upper and Lower Intake Manifold Install
    By Hillie16

    Getting started

    Changing the intake manifold on a 5.0 appears to be a daunting task, and I approached it with some trepidation, but this install ends up being fairly easy. As long as you are careful, and clearly mark, record, or can easily remember where each electrical connection, vacuum line, nut and bolt goes as you remove them, it should be very easy to do. Nothing relocates very far from the original position on the stock intake. It must be noted though, that the Edelbrock manifolds have holes that are not occupied by anything on the stock intake, and must filled with plugs. The lower manifold has 3 (Fig 1),


    the upper manifold also has 3 (Fig 2).


    All the proper plugs were not included with my kit. Also the vacuum fittings included with the manifold were not the correct size. This may have been just an oversight with mine only, I wouldn't expect that as a usual practice from Edelbrock. Also make sure you have a new thermostat gasket, and unless it was already done recently, I would suggest picking up a 180 degree thermostat. I also replaced the plugs, wires, and cap & rotor. Removing the distibutor is not necessary, but I highly recommend it, as the lower manifold will be MUCH easier to remove and install. You'll also need a torque wrench to torque the lower manifold bolts to the proper specs. You'll need a good assortment of sockets, extensions, hex wrenches, and open end wrenches to reach all the bolts as well. Have plenty of antifreeze on hand, and after the install is complete, an oil change is recommended. Also a bottle of pipe dope is recommended. Also the stock strut tower brace WILL NOT clear this intake. I bought the Steeda chrome-oly brace available from www.partshopper.com as a replacement...most aftermarket strut tower braces will clear the aftermarket intakes.


    First, disconnect your negative battery terminal. Then drain the coolant system. The engine MUST BE COOL when you do this. I parked mine overnight,and drained it in the morning. Remove the radiator cap. Then, open the plug on the radiator, on the bottom on the passenger side. There are also to hex drain plugs in the block. The passenger side plug is easiest to get to, it's right below the #1 spark plug. I could only get one out, the other started to strip out. I would highly advise removing one of the plugs in the block, as I had NO coolant left in the manifolds when I removed them, thus none to clean out of the valley. Make sure screw the plug back in. Remove the strut tower brace. Next disconnect the accelerator cables (Fig 3A) and remove the accelerator cable bracket (Fig 3C). Remove the bolts attaching the EGR to the intake (Fig 3B).


    Next go disconnect all vacuum lines and electrical connections. There are 3 vacuum lines that connect to the upper manifold, two of which are on the underside of the runners, they may be easier to remove after unbolting the upper intake. (Fig 4) There is a fitting on the upper manifold that will be save to be placed on the Edelbrock upper. (Fig 4A).


    If you look at front of the fuel rail on the passenger side, you'll see a black cap. pull the cap off to reveal a schrader valve. Have a big rag or towel handy, and use this valve to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Now you should be ready to remove the upper intake. Remove the bolts attaching the throttle body to the intake. There are two bolts under the "5.0 HO" plate on top of the stock intake. Remove the plate, then remove all the bolts on the upper intake. Carefully remove the upper intake. Using a rag or towel, (an old T-shirt works good) cover the ports in the lower manifold, so no debris, nuts or bolts can find their way in there(Fig 5).

    Now you are ready to remove the fuel rails and injectors. You DO NOT need to disconnect the fuel lines! First unplug the electrical connecters to each fuel injector (Fig 5)


    Remove the 2 bolts on each side holding the fuel rails onto the lower manifold. Now carefully lift on the fuel rails. You can either lift the rails and the injectors out as an assembly, or detach the rails from the injectors, and remove each injector seperately. Lift the fuel rails over to the passenger side out of the way of the lower manifold.

    If you do not want to remove the distributor, it is not completely necessary but I HIGHLY recommend it, as the lower manifold will be VERY difficult to remove, and even more difficult to install the new lower. It is also very easy to remove the distributor. Using masking tape, mark each spark plug wire according to it's correct cylinder (Fig 6).


    Note the raised numeral "1" on the distributor cap. This indicates the plug wires which goes to the #1 cylinder and can also serve as a marker in relation to the cap clamps to replace the cap in the correct position. Remove the cap, and mark the position of the rotor inside the cap, and the base of the distributor in relation to the block. Remove the distributor hold down clamp. Now CAREFULLY lift the distributor out of the engine, being careful not to turn the shaft. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE WHILE THE DISTRIBUTOR IS OUT OR THE REFERENCE POINTS WILL BE USELESS!

    For the next step, you need to disconnect all the coolant hoses, including removing the fitting behind the thermostat housing. Now remove the thermostat housing. Remove the PCV valve from the rear of the lower manifold. Now remove all the bolts for the lower intake manifold 1/4 turn at a time til you can remove them by hand. Make sure there is nothing else connected to the lower manifold. Now lift the lower manifold out of place. Using paper towels or rags, stuff the intake ports so that no debris from the gaskets will fall into the intake ports on the heads(Fig 7).


    Be very careful doing this, you don't want to lose the towels in the ports...it will be a lot of work to get them out. Clean the mating surfaces, as clean as possible so that you will get a good seal. Clean any debris left over out of the valley.


    Before putting the Edelbrock lower in, make sure the proper plugs are in place as described at the beggining of the article. Remove the coolant temperature sensor from the stock lower and put it in the new piece. Remove the rubber seal for the PCV valve from the stock lower and put it in place in the Edelbrock lower. Also make sure the PCV baffle is placed in the bottom of the lower manifold using the pins provided.

    Now make sure you clean the gasket surfaces very good, I used a soft bristle nylon brush attachment for the drill to do it, I also layed a towel in the valley to avoid any pieces of leftover gasket in the valley. Lift the rubber endcaps on the front and back of the block and throw those things in the garbage along with the cork end gaskets included with the gasket set. USE FEL-PRO GASKETS for the best seal but either way the end pieces included are worthless.. Also use the black RTV sealant. My method was to put a thin layer of the sealant on the mating surface of the head, using my finger to smear it around. I made it a bit thicker around the coolant ports. Then lay the gasket down. Run a thick bead on the front and back mating areas on the block, making a THICK blob of sealant where the head and block meet at the corners. Also make a thin layer on the mating surfaces of the lower manifold.

    Now you will need help, someone else to hold everything out of the way to lower the manifold into place. you want this to be as close to perfectly in place as possible to keep the gaskets in place. Now put the bolts in, torque them down in the correct order (Fig 8).


    The specs call for 15-18 ft-lbs of torque. I started at 10 ft-lbs, and worked up in 2 lb increments, til I got to 18 making sure to do so in the correct order. Now cover the ports in the new lower with a rag, and let the lower manifold sealant cure overnight, 24 hours. Check each of the bolts again for proper torque.

    Now screw the the coolant fitting in behind the area where the thermostat housing goes (Fig 9).


    MAKE SURE this fitting is going in straight. I crossthreaded this hole and it took three days to find the correct tap to fix this problem (which is 1/2 inch pipe thread BTW)

    Using a very thin coat of KY Jelly, lubricate the O-rings on each injector. The easiest way I found to install the fuel injectors is to install each injector one at a time and then place the rails onto the injectors. make sure everything snaps into place. Plug each electrical injector connection back into place. Screw each provided stud into it's proper place in the lower manifold (Fig 10).


    Place the PCV valve into it's hole. Reattach the thermostat housing, using a new gasket and preferably a new thermostat. Reconnect all the coolant lines.

    Now, using the marks you made when you removed it, drop the distributor back into place, making sure your lines line up perfectly. If you don't line them up, the timing will be off. Bolt it back down using the original clamp. Refer to the wiring diagram

    Make sure that you have the correct fittings in place in the upper intake. Place the upper to lower gasket in place, dry, not with sealant. This gasket stays dry. Once again, you
    will need some help, have someone hold up the upper intake, as you attach the vacuum lines to the correct fittings. Gently lower the upper manifold into place. Thread all the nuts onto the studs and tighten them snugly, but be careful not to overtighten them. You'll need an open end wrench to tighten the bolt in the center of the manifold, this is time consuming, but make sure the bolt is tightened well (Fig 11).


    Now attach the plenum cover. Again leave the gasket dry, this gasket also does not use sealant. Again, snug these hex head bolts tightly, but do not overtighten them (Fig 12).


    Before bolting on the throttle body adapter you need to drill out the lower right corner bolt hole to 11/32, this bolt will thread into the adapter itself from the back of the intake flange (Fig 13).


    Bolt the EGR to the adapter, and the adapter onto the upper intake, this gasket is also dry as is the EGR gasket. There is a fitting left on the stock upper intake that needs to be screwed on the throttle body adapter (Fig 14).


    Reattach the vacuum lines to this fitting, the photo shows this fitting while still on the stock intake, but it reconnects the same (Fig 15).


    One line needs extended, but the adapter kit includes the extension. Bolt the accelerator cable bracket onto the adapter. Again, use a dry gasket, and bolt the throttle body onto the adapter. Connect the accelerator cables to the brackets. Make sure all electrical connections to throttle body etc. are reconnected. Bolt the new strut tower brace (if you have one) in place. Refill your coolant system. Change the oil. Now let the engine run and check for leaks. Check the back of the intake for oil leaks as this is the usual spot. Now just keep an eye on it for the next few weeks for leaks.

    Have any questions? [email protected] or GeorgeFarcus on AIM.


  4. 9. Window lift bushing install.

    That window not going all the way up or making clicking noises? It's not the motor but the plastic bushings inside the motor. Here is a step by step to help fix the problem.

    Pics came out a little blury but you will get the idea.

    Pop off the plastic cover. Start from the top with your fingers and pull up. Remove the two gold phillips screws holding the switches.


    Remover the phillips screws.


    Pull the tab before the speaker out with some plyers.


    Remove the four phillips speaker screws. You won't have to disconnect the speaker. The speaker magnet will catch on some metal.


    Disconnect the window motor connector. Now work the window motor side through the hole.


    Here are the three 8MM bolts holding the window motor in place. Before removing them put a screw driver in the window tract. Some say the window will fall it you don't. Mine did not but do it for safety precautions. Now put your arm through the speaker hole and use your other hand to remove the bolts. The window lift will fall right out now.


    Bring it to a work bench.


    Remove the cover with a screw driver. You can see here where it is clamped (screwdriver is pointing to the notch).


    With the cover off you can see the mess of chewed plastic bushings. Clean all the bushing material up.


    Remove the gear ring. This will be a pain. I used to small nails. Stick in the holes and pull out. You will figure you own way when you get there.


    Now pull the steel gear out. Also pull the white plastic gear out. At this point you can just purchase an entire gear kit from Cardone. Part number is 42-94 and costs around $20 (easier way). There is no assembly required with this route. Or you can go to the dealer and get plastic bushings like I'm installing here for $13.


    Put the new plastic bushings in place. Now put the entire assembly back in the window lift housing. Put the gear ring back on and dab a little grease on it. Put the cover back on and reverse the window lift removal procedure. (Screwdriver tip pointing to the bushings.)


    10. Other Misc. Tech Links

    by Chris Neighbors


    By Scott Halihan


    By Sean Foushee


    by Scott Halihan


    by Scotty Manby


    by Scott Halihan


    by Scott Manby


    by Fiveofanatic

  5. 11. Rocker Arm Adjustment Instructions
    1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.

    2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.

    3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.

    4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

    5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

    6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.

    There may be some initial valvetrain noise when the engine is first fired up but once oil pressure has stabilized and the engine heats up, it should quiet right down to a normal level.

    Remember that some racier camshafts will have a mechanical sound to them and will not be a silent as factory units.

    12. COOLING
    Have cooling issues? The stock EEC turns the high speed fan on at 208 Degrees. The stock radiator is less than 3/4 inches thick. These two issues cause the 94-95's to run hot. Ford did this for emissions purposes. This however is bad for performance.

    To correct this you must get a hold of your cooling fan. Either have it turned on when the key is on OR have a switch to turn it on.

    Here is the keys to lower temps:
    180 Thermostat
    Fluidyne or equivalent Radiator
    70% Water / 30% Coolant
    Fan on HIGH

    Fan Switch
    by Troy Chapman (Rednsk95)


    CCRM Diagram

    Cooling Fan Diagram

    Low Speed Fan Diagram
  6. 13. How to set timing on your 1994-1995 Mustang
    By David Courtright (1fstgt)

    Tools required: timing light, socket to loosen distributor hold down bolt, bright colored marker.

    1. Get under your car to see the marks on the harmonic balancer. If i have to explain what a balancer is or where it is, you shouldn't be setting your own timing. Using the bright colored marker, put a mark on the 10* timing line and wherever you are going to set the timing to. Most people mark 14*-16* it just varies. Some engines will let you run 16* without detonation and some won't it all just depends on gas octane, heat, injector size, and fuel pressure. Start out at 14* to be safe. Anyways, mark the 10* and wherever you want to set the timing to. I mark the 10 with one color and the 14 with another color. This allows you to see the marks very clearly when you are up top with the light.

    2. Next, disconnect the SPOUT connector. This is a two pink wire connector located in the passenger side fender towards the front around the air box. Unplug the grey part of the connector from the black part. Now your SPOUT is disconnected which takes the computer out of the equation while setting timing. you will have to plug this back in at the end so don't lose it.

    3. Locate the timing pointer from the top of the engine compartment. It's a little bracket above the balancer and it's easiest to see from the left side of the engine compartment. This is what you will be looking at with the timing light.

    4. Hook up the timing light to the number one cylinder plug wire. This is the cylinder closest to the front on the passenger side. Hook up the light to the battery. The light will flash every time the number one cylinder fires. This is what you set the timing off of.

    5. Loosen the distributor hold down bolt. Do not remove all the way. You will be turning the distributor to adjust timing.

    6. Start your engine, your light should be flashing. point the light at the timing pointer down below. You should see the two marks that you made.
    Now turn the distributor until the desired mark lines up with the pointer. That's all there is to it. Now tighten down that hold down bolt and recheck your timing to make sure when you tightened the bolt that the timing didn't change.

    7. Shut off the engine. Reconnect the SPOUT connector and go for a drive. Do some full throttle accelerations to make sure there is no detonation. Detonation sounds kind of like a very rapid rattling noise. If it does make this rattling noise, that is very bad and you must adjust the timing back down. If you don't you will really mess up your engine. Retard it two degrees and then drive again to see if it detonates. This all depends on the conditions, some will, and some won't.

    14. Abbreviations and Functions: By Paul Riva

    EEC- Electronic Engine Control; this is the “computer”. There are a few different calibrations or processors found in the 94-95 cars. They are:

    ECT- Engine Coolant Temperature; this is used by the EEC to tell the temperature of the engine. This value is used in a number of different tables in the EEC programming and the EEC also uses this figure to know when to turn on and off the electric cooling fan.

    ACT- Air Charge Temperature; this is used by the EEC to determine the temperature of the incoming air. The reason for this is hot air is less dense than cold. As detailed below the MAF sensor uses voltage to calculate the amount of air coming into the motor, but the MAF doesn’t know how dense this air is. If this sensor wasn’t there, the car might be tuned to run great at 30*F, at 90* it would be rich as there are now less oxygen molecules per volume of air than there was at 30*.

    MAF- Mass Air Flow; this sensor is used by the EEC to calculate the amount of air entering the engine. In the 94-95 cars, the values from this sensor also help determine engine load. Load is used in the majority of the tables in the 94-95 processors and therefor is a CRUTIAL value. “Recalibrate” MAF use a “tricked” voltage to the computer to compensate for larger injectors. Basically this is done to trick the EEC into thinking it has less air coming in than it really does. The EEC thinking it has less then what is really coming in shortens the injector pulsewidth, but since the injectors are larger than stock, the MAF companies have found the ideal “tricked” voltage to make for a good air fuel mixture. Since the calibrated MAF is using a “tricked” voltage, load is thus effected. Its best to get a MAF that reports voltage just like the stock unit, but then have the EEC injector tables modified by a chip, but this comes at an increased cost and can be a little tricky unless the tuner knows exactly what they are doing. Pulse width is the amount of times the injector opens up to squirt fuel into the head’s intake port. Increasing fuel pressure will allow more fuel to flow through the injector during the same amount of time.

    PCV- Pollution Control Valve; this is a devise that recirculates crankcase vapors (like blow-by) into the upper intake. Without it there is no way for crankcase vapor to escape which can hurt performance and could result in leaky or blown gaskets.

    Cam- Camshaft; this is essentially the brains of the motor along with the EEC. The cam alone determines when air enters and leaves the combustion chamber, and also determines the timing of these events. The cam is normally defined by its specs. They are LSA, duration (both advertised and at .050”), lift, and ramp speeds. The LSA stands for Lobe Separation Angle and this values determines the amount of overlap (or time when both valves are open at the same time). The lower the LSA the more overlap there is. Typically naturally aspirated cars (or NA for short) run LSA’s in the 112-lower range, and boosted cars (ones with superchargers or turbos) run higher LSA’s to help prevent the incoming pressurized air/fuel charge from getting blown out the exhaust valve. Duration is the amount of degrees the valve is open, duration at .050” is a method of standardizing this measurement since advertised duration varies between cam manufactures. Lift is how much the valve is opened. Roller rocker ratio also effects this value; a higher rocker ratio results in more lift. Ramp speed is what determines how quickly valve opens. Think of two cams, both with the exact same duration and lift. One cam with a faster ramp speed will reach ½ of max. lift before the other. So for a given amount of duration and lift two cams can act quite differently.

    '94 BY COLOR:
    Laser Red (E9)-22,345
    Black (UA)-19,849
    Deep Forest Green(NA)-18,869
    Crystal White (ZR)-18,760
    Rio Red (E8)-13,793
    Teal (RD)-11,948
    Bright Blue (KF)-6,191
    Opal Frost (WJ)-4,048
    Canary Yellow (BZ)-4,038
    Vibrant Red (ES)-2,453
    Iris Metallic (GC)-1,304


    '95 BY COLOR:
    Laser Red (E9)-29,450
    Deep Forest Green (NA)-27,792
    Black (UA)-27,112
    Crystal White (ZR)-26,899
    Rio Red (E8)-22,533
    Teal (RD)-9,845
    Bright Blue (KF)-7,819
    Opal Frost (WJ)-5,881
    Canary Yellow (BZ)-3,497
    Sapphire Blue (JA)-2,584
    Vibrant Red (ES)-1,625


    GTS Production Numbers

    w/AODE: 1,522

    By Color
    Canary Yellow-344
    Vibrant Red-25
    Rio Red-777
    Laser Red-1,123
    Sapphire Blue-96
    Bright Blue-197
    Deep Forest Green-1,002
    Opal Frost-312
    Crystal White-847


    16. Cobra Specs
    Here is a list of items that are unique to the Cobra vs the GT (94-95)
    If anyone has anything to add to this list feel free to e-mail me.


    The Cobra engine was under rated at 240bhp from the factory campared to the GT's 225bhp and was only available with a 5 speed and 3.08 rear end gears.

    Cast iron GT40 heads
    Cast aluminum Cobra intake manifold
    Crane 1.7 rocker arms
    24lb fuel injectors
    Cobra specific ECU (computer)
    "Cobra" stamped valve covers with build sticker and signature
    Engine oil cooler
    Front mounted power steering fluid cooler
    Lightened flywheel
    Phosphate coated transmission gears
    Overdriven waterpump pulley
    Cobra specific camshaft
    Cam specs: Duration: 227°/Intake & 270°/Exhaust
    Lift: .485/.485 Intake/Exhaust
    Lobe separation: 118.5°


    13" Front brakes
    11.65" rear brakes
    "Cobra" embossed front calipers
    Cobra specific brake booster
    Cobra specific rear sway bar
    Cobra specific shocks/struts/springs
    K-member that is slightly stiffer than the GT's
    No strut tower brace

    Steering wheel center / Airbag cover embossed with "Cobra"
    White faced gauges
    160mph speedometer
    "Cobra" embroidered floor mats

    Cobra specific 17" wheels
    Cobra specific rear spoiler with integrated 3rd brake light
    Cobra specific front bumper cover
    SVT emblem on decklid (95-up, not on 94)
    Cobra emblems on front fenders (no 5.0L emblems)
    "Crystal" (clear) headlights
    Round cobra specific foglights

    Other info:
    The 94-95 Cobra (and GT) came with a 60mm throttlebody, not the 65mm alot of people believe it to have. The 93 cobras came with a 65mm.
    Although the 94-95 Cobra came with 24lb injectors it still uses the same MAF (mass airflow meter) as the GT. The Cobra specific computer compensates for the 24lb injectors.

    Many people say the Cobra came with underdriven pulleys but from what i've heard it only has a Cobra specific overdriven waterpump pulley. Even if they are slightly underdriven they are nowhere near the same as real underdrive pulleys.

    94-95 Cobra trivia information (posted on the SCOA bulletin board posted by "Dano" from the SVT cobra recognition guide)
    1. '94 was the first year of the front facing Cobra snakes!
    2. These two years were the only ones to have the "Crab Claw" spoiler, with built-in LED brake light! (The GT's stop lamp was mounted on the rear decklid)
    3. Only three colors were offered:
    a. Rio Red Tinted Clearcoat
    b. Crystal White
    c. Black Clearcoat
    4. The '94 Indianapolis 500's official pace cars were GT's converted to Cobra specifications.! They were five converts, with a four-speed AOD automatic trans! The actual "Pace Car" was driven by Parnelli Jones. 1,000 of these replicas were built, for sale to the public! If you have a '94 convert, it's an Indy 500 replica, with all the special badges & markings, and it's red!
    5. The easiest way to tell a '94 from a '95:
    a. The '95 has an SVT badge on the trunk lid.
    b. The '95 has a vertical flair attached to the front of the rocker panel extension.
    6. ALL '94 Cobra converts were Rio Red Indy Pace Car replicas.
    7. ALL '95 converts were black.
    8. The '94 convert tops were saddle color, and the '95 convert tops were black. No other color combinations were available!
    9. '94 and '95's converts came with saddle interior.