E brake cables, there is a possibility that you can re use your factory e brake cables by relocating the brackets so they dont make contact with the wheels, what i did was buy some steel zip ties and attach the brake cable to the calipers and zip tie the loose part of the cable to the lower control arms, then relocate the bracket by drilling 2 holes one for the screw and one for the retaining fold (you'll see what i mean when you get down there) if you go this route you do not need to modify your e brake cable, now this isnt guaranteed to work(worked on my 88 but not my 87)
Hey folks,
can someone chime in about an emergency brake cable that will work with rear disks? The Raybestos ones I got (will post the part # soon) won't work
Got A TC rear axle and want 5 lug axles to increase your choice of wheels? Here's the answer...:
Use the 94-98 axles Mustang axles. Use 1990 Mazda MPV 3.0 V6 front rotors (10", 5 lug x 4.5" pattern, 2 7/16" offset ). While you are at the auto parts store, set a TC rear rotor side by side with the Mazda rotor and they are the same except for the offset.
The next step fixes the offset problem:
Use a Maximum MotorSports 1/8 spacer (MMWS6, Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader! ) between the inside of the rotor and the axle flange. The spacers may need to have the OD machined to fit properly. The stock rotor offset is 2 5/16" and the Mazda rotors are 2 7/16" offset. The 1/8" spacer puts the rotor back dead center alignment with the calipers.
The Mazda rotors are under $30 each, and I have seen them for $20 each. The MM spacers are two for $30 + $9 shipping. So the entire package costs $99. That saves $41, which most of us could find a very good use for.
5lugs...the cheap easy way.
Late model resto sells a kit for $400 to convert the basic 4-lug Fox into 5-lugs. Basically the kit uses OEM Ford components...in one easy kit with lube and misc items.
Basically, the requirements are as follows
Front (w/11" rotors): For the 87-93 V8 Mustang... 84-86 SVO or 84-92 Mark 7 front 11" rotors (either with or without ABS...doesn't matter)
Front (w/10" rotors): For the 79-86 and 87-93 4cyl cars, use the 83-92 4cyl Ranger front rotors
Optionally you can elect to replace the bearings at this time, or reuse the ones in your 4-lug rotors. Most often, they will directly swap over.
Rear: (All 4-lug drum rears) '83-'92 Ranger/Bronco II Left (driver) side axle (29-5/32") from a 4cyl or 3.0L V-6 with the 7.5" rear end, or '86-'97 Aerostar RIGHT side axles (29-5/32") is what you want. The 9" drums are off the 7.5" equipped ranger or aerostar.
Simple swap the axles and drums, and you are good to go.
Pros: Keeps stock fox offset up front and in the rear. Doesn't change a thing other than add a 5th lug. Cheap, Easy
Cons: Limited wheel selection. Front hub is the issue
List of the OEM Sn95 wheels that fit the front rotors without modification
94-96 16" Pony Wheels
94-95 17" GT wheels
94-97 Cobra 17" Wheels
1995 Cobra R wheels (OEM)
V6 Mustang wheels
Other SN95 wheels will bolt up, but you won't be able to run the center caps.
Maximum Motorsports said:Do not install a 1996-04 spindle on a 1979-93 or 1994-95 Mustang fitted with a stock-geometry k-member!
Doing so will significantly increase bumpsteer because...
* The steering arm on the 1996-04 spindle is about 1.02" (26mm) lower (relative to the rest of the spindle) than the steering arm of any 1979-95 spindle.
* The lower steering arm forces the outer tie-rod end to a lower position.
* That new position is far too low for the steering rack location of any 1979-95 Mustang, and radically changes the steering geometry.
* It is impossible to correct the geometry with a bumpsteer kit because the outer tie-rod end needs to be raised so much that it would have to occupy the same physical space as the steering arm.
Maximum Motorsports said:1994-95 spindles will increase the front track width by 0.120" (3.1mm) per side.
1996-04 spindles will increase the front track width by 0.320" (8.1mm) per side.