what oil are you running?

Discussion in '2005 - 2009 Specific Tech' started by autumn_again, Sep 25, 2008.

  1. I would not use any viscosity other than 5W-20; this discussion has come up in other forums, and Jim at JDM tuning said that the cam phasers in these cars are very sensitive to viscosity changes and they have seen up to 30 hp gains from putting the right oil in the car to get the valve timing working again.
    The regular Motorcraft filter has a very good reputation, I don't know if there is much reason to use something else. I use Mobil 1 and the Motorcraft filter.
  2. I'd love to see that 30 hp gain ... :rlaugh:
  3. He was saying that the wrong viscosity oil was causing a 30 hp loss, not that the oil they switched to made any gains over what should have been in there to begin with. From what I understand, the variable cam timing is dependent on the right viscosity being used, and when it isn't the system won't work right. I may have misunderstood what the guy at JDM was saying, but I would guess that he knows what he is talking about, he has a S197 with no power adders running 11.15.
  4. Huh? :rolleyes:

    I guess one of my big questions is...will the 0-20 satisfy Ford's warranty requirement? Also, has anyone been running 0-20 in their Mustang?

    It seems that the better flow at cold temperatures would be a benefit...and at warmer temps it acts the same as a 5-20, right? (feel free to chime in here oil experts...I don't pretend to be one).

    My car is at almost 1K miles and I'm changing it to full synthetic next weekend. I've done it before in all my cars without any problems whatsoever except for my last one that shipped with Mobil 1 from the factory.

    As for Mobil 1...I've used it, I think it's OK, but the oil always looks filthy black when it's time for the oil change whether that is at 3K or at extended frequencies. Now I know I've read that oil color is supposedly not an indication of quality but that doesn't seem to matter to the oil change guys when they scorn me for how terrible my oil looks...or when I change it myself and it's pitch black. It seems just like conventional oil in that respect.

    Amsoil on the other hand always looks like I just changed the oil (perfectly clean) and it also smells different; where Mobil 1 smells like regular oil Amsoil almost has no odor which leads me it's more "synthetic" than Mobil 1 "synthetic". Just rambling here...and I don't pretend to be an oil expert so those that are please offer your opinions. It also kills me to be an Amsoil advocate (since their company seems practically cult-like in their fanatical followers and their sales practices) but damn...I swear my cars seem to have more horsepower and fuel efficiency, plus it looks cleaner when I dump it. The only thing I don't like about it is the lack of API certification which the owner's manuals say I need...and the price. Any opinions?

    I haven't decided what oil I'm going with yet (0-20, or 5-20, Amsoil, RP, or Mobil1?) so more opinions to sway my decision are appreciated.
  5. I'm 2200 miles into a run on the Mobil 1 0W20 and have seen no noticible gain in fuel economy. The car has 8400 miles on it and I changed out the factory fill at 500 miles with new Motorcraft 5W20 and FL820S filter. Switched to M1 5W20 at 3000 miles and tried the 0W20 at the 6k change. I've always used M1 so guess I'll go back to 5W20 and be done woth it.
  6. My opinions. Feel free to disagree.

    If you want to keep the warranty in place, do NOT use any viscosity oil other than what is stated by Ford in the owner's guide unless you have a written letter from Ford Motor Co. that says that another particular oil is acceptable and will not void the warranty.

    Essentially, 0W oil uses viscosity improvers to reach 20 weight when the oil is hot. The same thing with 5W, except the viscosity improvers are not the same because they do not need to increase the weight of the base oil's viscosity as much.

  7. Although I am not an expert, I do know that one can not determine the condition of the oil by just the way it looks and smells or even the amount of miles/time it had on it.

    Many stationary industrial engines have the oil changed only when the oil analysis indicated it is necessary. Mucho $$$ were saved by analysis based oil change intervals (many units hold well over 500 GALLONS of oil with the filters holding 75+ GALLONS alone!) Additionally, the analysis spotted small problems (metal content, coolant, etc.) which was the original reason for the analysis due to the fact that these were emergency use engines that we couldn't allow to fail. They were used as generators (nuclear power plants) or storm drain pump power units. People would tend to get a little pissy if the local nuclear power station had a meltdown or they woke up with 3 feet of water in their homes because a power unit failed. Unfortunately, "highly detailed" oil analysis costs a couple of hundred dollars each. Not very cost effective for an oil change that costs less than 50 bucks.

    Auto and oil manufacturers have tested the oil and engines for thousands of hours and have determined the safe intervals for oil changes using the cheapest dino based oils that met the API standards in order to get a worst case senario. You can make book that there is a "fudge factor" built into those recommendations as neither the car maker or oil producer wants to be advertised as producing a product that fails. The use of full synthetic oil is just an additional safety factor that we gearheads are willing to pay for for the peace of mind.

    With all that being said, I would think that a "dirtier looking" oil would be a good thing. That would tell me that the oil's detergent was removing sludge and gunk (technical terms for water, acids, carbon deposits, etc.) as designed. I would be more suspicious if the oil was clean as a whistle after a few thousand miles. Of course I could be wrong as I am not a expert on oil, but that would be my opinion.
  8. That is quite true and one of the reasons why auto makers got away from 10w-40 oils is due to all the additives required for so large of a viscosity span. They also found that the "40" part of the viscosity span dropped very quickly to "30" (less than 1000 miles) while still having all of the additives which are not really the best stuff for lubrication. Of course, again I am not an expert and this is just my opinion.
  9. will using the royal purple void my warranty? i didn't think about that until after i purchased it, i haven't thrown it in yet, and still have the chance to return it. Its still 5w20, but its not the motorcraft oil recommended, and its also a full synthetic.

    I know a lot of people say it doesn't matter as long as they can't trace it back to the oil I used causing the problem. Its not like i am throwing some cheap 2.99 autozone special synthetic blend mixed in a garbage can behind mcdonalds, I'm using a well reputable company.
  10. For a 2007 Mustang GT, the engine oil needs to meet Ford specification WSS-M2C 930-A with API Certification Mark. If the bottle says that on it, then you should be fine. If not, you need to contact the oil manufacturer and get, in writing, that the oil meets the Ford specification. If you can not get that assurance, I would not use it.
  11. Have you really ever heard of Ford denying a warranty claim because of oil? Nope, not going to happen, especially within the factory warranty period. If you've got a oil related engine failure than you're to blame more than likely.
  12. actually, i have....
  13. No, I have not. I have heard, however, that GM has refused to repair engines under warranty because the incorrect viscosity of oil was used.
  14. I don't think for is really going to go all CSI on you for using a non-motorcraft oil. After-all; Ford is a motorcraft company, of course they will recomend that.

    And as for Royal Purple, I am dissapointed. I usually go up to my cabin and get around 27 miles to the gallon. I changed the oil to Royal purple at 1000 miles on the car, I ran to the cabin this weekend and I only got 23 at the HIGHEST.

    Could this be because I put pure synthetic in a brand new car, first oil change?
  15. As far as Ford denying a claim because you didn't use their own, that'd be against the law.

    As far as Royal Purple causing less mileage ... The oil had NOTHING to do with that ... There are way too many variables to say that the oil did it. I've been running Royal Purple synthetic since 1,000 miles on my car and never saw a difference in mileage because of it. There are way too many things that effect gas mileage. The only time I'd say that a oil could change a mileage is if you used a different weight oil.
  16. Mobil 1 5w-20 and an appropriate Wix filter.
  17. i thought we were talking about ford denying a claim because of the weight of the oil, not the brand.
  18. We were but Wind Farmer said the brand and that's why I commented like I did.
  19. According to the owner's manual, Ford ONLY will cover if you use the recommended oil (0w for V6, 5w for V8) and it must be Motorcraft oil. Fuel and oil additives are NOT recommended and failure of an engine part due to this is NOT under warranty. That being said...I don't see how ford could trace it being a motorcraft oil... The way I see it with using the 0w in a V8, Ford spent thousands of hours and probably millions of dollars designing and testing this engine with different oils, etc etc etc. If Ford recommends 5w, that's what I'm using...no matter the company as long as it's reputable. In my honda, I ran 10/30 Mobil 1 for a good while and beat the crap out of it. I think I would frequent 5-8K miles on it before changing it. Car had 183K miles when I bought it with two pistons needing rings. Did a full rebuild on it and beat the crap out of it for 100K miles to see how well of a rebuilder I was. Car was redlined, overheated, and raced. Engine was pulled from car and given to a new owner about 2yrs ago, and to the best of my knowledge, he still drives it today. I DID however feel a butt-dyno improvement by putting RP in my tranny/engine...but I get the same butt-dyno feel after washing my mustang. :D

    That being said, I use 5w20 motorcraft syn blend on the motorcraft recommended 820s filter. I will not use additives.

    I, too, have heard of GM denying warranty due to "not using the right oil" or whatever. I also have witnessed a GM plant close, a couple million dollar bailout sent their way, "employee pricing" incentive, "buy one get one free" incentive, and many other attempts to "add more life-boats to the titanic." And this hasn't all been ONLY recently with all the talk about the economy in the ****ter.

    My question with the oil I'm using is how often should I replace it? I know I've heard full synthetic can go like 15K before needing a change, or whatever (not that I would...) but what is recommended for this setup? I don't recall reading it in the manual other than "regular intervals."
  20. manual says 5K between changes, but I still change mine at 3k. The manual also recommends motorcraft, not requires.