wheres the hp
- Thread starter Jax97cobra
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shallowreef
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I'm sure you have but did you get the car dyno tuned? If not that may release a s***load of power.
yes i did have the car tuned w a sct chip when i had it dynoed.....cost me $500
befor the tune it was at 272rwh. i kinda wish i had just bought a pms for 800!
but then i would have still to pay to have it dynoed. the guy that tuned it is a reputable tuner in my area and he said they were good #s but from what im seeing on here it really isnt that great. i bought the car with all the upgrades done to it...im kinda thinking maybee the cam lobes are worn or something
befor the tune it was at 272rwh. i kinda wish i had just bought a pms for 800!
but then i would have still to pay to have it dynoed. the guy that tuned it is a reputable tuner in my area and he said they were good #s but from what im seeing on here it really isnt that great. i bought the car with all the upgrades done to it...im kinda thinking maybee the cam lobes are worn or something
shallowreef
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Black95GTS
Active Member
Jax97cobra said:
Well you didn't list an aftermarket fuel pump. And you need one deperately bad. I suggest that as the first step! Without additional fuel, there will be no additional power.
Adam
shallowreef
New Member
blksn955.o
Founding Member
From sim. combos the track heat seems to stick out to me as too big for that setup. I would see if someone can swap you a street heat upper and see if there is an improvement.
A fuel pump is also in need like said above.
with a tune I would think high 290-310 would be a good est. Your close though so not a real bad issue.
A fuel pump is also in need like said above.
with a tune I would think high 290-310 would be a good est. Your close though so not a real bad issue.
shallowreef
New Member
Black95GTS
Active Member
blksn955.o said:
Hmmm I don't know about that. I believe, but I'm not positive, that the AFM cam ideally spins to 62-6300 RPMS.
As the owner of a street heat, I can tell you from personal experience that it definately bottle necks at 5500. Leaving 7-800 RPMS on the table is
The second I get higher flowing heads and a cam I will be swapping to a track heat upper. The street heat is really only good for stock or MAYBE unworked GT-40 heads.HP = (Trq * RPM) / 5252. All other things being equal, less RPM = less HP.
Adam
blksn955.o
Founding Member
I have seen it with a few fox's. For whatever reason it just does not go well with the stock TW heads.
and I would say that street heat is better than a set of un-ported gt40's...by bit unless your saying the street heat is less of an intake than the gt40 intake...that is matched to the gt40 heads from Ford.
either way he is close...maybe its that the power he has is just what its going to put out.
and I would say that street heat is better than a set of un-ported gt40's...by bit unless your saying the street heat is less of an intake than the gt40 intake...that is matched to the gt40 heads from Ford.
either way he is close...maybe its that the power he has is just what its going to put out.
Black95GTS
Active Member
blksn955.o said:
Sorry, I confused you... I meant that unless you are running stock heads or stock GT-40 heads, then you need a bigger intake then a street heat. Anything bigger then those two sets of heads will want to support higher revs then a street heat is good for.
The street heat is essentially a stock replacement intake. IMO. When combined into an HCI package, I personally feel that the street heat will leave power on the table.
You may ask, Adam, why did you buy the street heat then? Well, I would say that I plan to spray my car long before I do the cam and intake. My car won't see revving much past 5500 for at least a year.
Adam
blksn955.o
Founding Member
I believe the street heat is sold with the TFS package with the TW as a matched set.
and very good points Grady...that should have been the first question asked.
Dynos are good for A/F, and checking what setup/change makes more power at a given day on the same dyno. Take it to the track and see what it does...if you go and bust out a mid-high 12 or low...low 13 at like 107mph...I wouldnt care what a dyno said.
and very good points Grady...that should have been the first question asked.
Dynos are good for A/F, and checking what setup/change makes more power at a given day on the same dyno. Take it to the track and see what it does...if you go and bust out a mid-high 12 or low...low 13 at like 107mph...I wouldnt care what a dyno said.
blksn955.o said:
Since you have said this
Have you ever thought about 1/4 mile results along these lines?
I feel many things can throw off dyno results from time to time.
however
I myself am no stranger to the 1/4 strip. I know all too well the driver can make soooooooo much difference when trying to compare one combo to another.
As a matter of fact, I myself feel I can get a better idea of what a combo is gonna do by dyno results rather than 1/4 mile results.
Let me just throw out two names that to me tell the whole story about how misleading 1/4 times can be:
Paul Riva
Jackie Chan
Comments anyone
Grady
blksn955.o
Founding Member
both ways have variable issues that change.
I just think that the dyno can be mis-leading in that it takes away from the real world sort of speek. So does the track with say a diff. driver than the owner. If the owner cannot drive the car to its full...then whats the point if someone else gets say a 11 or 12 1/4 mile out of it when the driver who ownes it runs it in the mid 13's.
I am of the thinking that both Dyno and 1/4 used together...like getting the most out of a combo by seeing what makes the most as far as parts, tune, ect. at the dyno. As well as taking it to the track to see how well it puts it down and how the driver works with those things.
kinda like what good is a 500hp dyno run when you cut a 2.9 60ft and shift slow ending in a 1/4 time of 13.5.
Or
A car runs the owners goal of low 12's but the combo is on a poor tune that is going to blow up the engine on the 3rd pass while leaving power on the table.
I just think that the dyno can be mis-leading in that it takes away from the real world sort of speek. So does the track with say a diff. driver than the owner. If the owner cannot drive the car to its full...then whats the point if someone else gets say a 11 or 12 1/4 mile out of it when the driver who ownes it runs it in the mid 13's.
I am of the thinking that both Dyno and 1/4 used together...like getting the most out of a combo by seeing what makes the most as far as parts, tune, ect. at the dyno. As well as taking it to the track to see how well it puts it down and how the driver works with those things.
kinda like what good is a 500hp dyno run when you cut a 2.9 60ft and shift slow ending in a 1/4 time of 13.5.
Or
A car runs the owners goal of low 12's but the combo is on a poor tune that is going to blow up the engine on the 3rd pass while leaving power on the table.
