- Jul 7, 2005
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Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
- Thread starter a91what
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I am using Edis coils... so I got a set of weaponX wires for them and am cutting to fit.
I cut the flap on the evap case and have the foam glued to the new evap. Rain came in so I am done for the day.
When you're done, I hope that you are going to tell us how to cut this, glue that, and screw to other parts together with sheet metal screws. We all want a plan so that next time the heater core blows out after a 6500 RPM turn that it only takes 30--45 minutes to replace the heater core.
My heater core blew with a 5200 RPM 1st to 2nd gear upshift in front of the local Ford Dealership... Great second gear rubber and the rear end even danced sideways a bit... But when the cabin filled with steam, then I knew that fun was all over with...
My heater core blew with a 5200 RPM 1st to 2nd gear upshift in front of the local Ford Dealership... Great second gear rubber and the rear end even danced sideways a bit... But when the cabin filled with steam, then I knew that fun was all over with...
I can take pictures of what i did today and some of the reassembly, i figured that the dash removal has been covered many many times so i didnt bother to document it all that well. I will got you plenty of pictures and an explanation of the heater core and evaporator replacement.
All of you guys could cut your firewalls there where the heater core protrudes through and make that a remove-able access panel that exposes that stupid heater core the next time the engine is out.
Think of it in the same light as your fuel pumps....
Either remove a panel that exposes the pump (through the trunk floor) or drop the tank.
or...
Create a removeable panel that exposes that heater core, or drop the dash.
Either way it's a simple fix that nobody here will do because of the infrequency of either fix.....then,...the very next time that it has to be done,.....what coulda been a half hour will again take a day.
You have a very good point, but cutting up a structural/fire barrier scares me.
It seems a lot like cutting an inspection plate hole right on the firewall behind a Wright 3350 Cyclone aircraft engine. By the way, they had a magnesium accessory gearbox and were famous for catching fire and burning the engine right off the wing.
With that in mind, if I was a little more ignorant, or foolhardy, maybe I would be inclined to try it....
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What Joe is saying Mike is maybe this is a project for Dave! Lol
Here is my 2¢ worth. To make an access hole with a removable panel for the purpose of making it easy to service a part that is capable of lasting years and 70-80 thousand miles and in most cases longer is a stretch, the access hole for the fuel pump is ok, it's hidden, so no harm but to have a panel in the engine compartment that will have to look like it belongs there and likely will be noticed (duh) by mustang people and not get funny looks/questions is going to be a fair amount of work, it can be done I'm sure but I can't see it myself.
I was asked to give a detailed explanation of how i went about replacing the heater core and evaporator with the air box still inside the car.
Here goes nothing.
This write-up assumes you did not fully remove the dash. I simply removed the center console, glove box, and the panel below the steering wheel. After pulling the screws that bolt the dash to the firewall and drop the steering column, the dash will pull just far enough back to make this possible. This cuts the time required to do the installation down dramatically.
Once the airbox has been freed from the firewall and placed on the floorboard, you will see 4- screws holding the panel lid on the heater core. They will be 5/16 hex head screws remove them and pull the heater core lid free, the heater core is now easily removed.
The evaporator core is a bit more involved, the photo below was taken right after cutting the flap in the evap case. I used a wood flute bit in a dremel tool and took my time, after about 2 mins i had the flap made and the Evaporator removed.
You can clearly see the outline i followed, when you get to the tabs on the right be sure to cut them directly in half up the middle this is important for the clip used to hold the flap closed. Dont forget to clean the loose plastic off the lid surround and vacuum out the air box.
Another shot of the airbox so you can clearly see the flap, and heater core location.
Most replacement evaporators from the auto parts store wont come with the foam installed, carefully peel it off and install it on the new one. I used a small amount of spray adhesive to ensure it would stay in place during installation.
This step is by far the hardest part, DO NOT FORCE the evaporator core into place. If you can have a helper hold the dash away some from the airbox while you fiddle with the evaporator core do so. I did not have any help so i just took my time, after some finagling it slide right in.
Here goes nothing.
This write-up assumes you did not fully remove the dash. I simply removed the center console, glove box, and the panel below the steering wheel. After pulling the screws that bolt the dash to the firewall and drop the steering column, the dash will pull just far enough back to make this possible. This cuts the time required to do the installation down dramatically.
Once the airbox has been freed from the firewall and placed on the floorboard, you will see 4- screws holding the panel lid on the heater core. They will be 5/16 hex head screws remove them and pull the heater core lid free, the heater core is now easily removed.
The evaporator core is a bit more involved, the photo below was taken right after cutting the flap in the evap case. I used a wood flute bit in a dremel tool and took my time, after about 2 mins i had the flap made and the Evaporator removed.
You can clearly see the outline i followed, when you get to the tabs on the right be sure to cut them directly in half up the middle this is important for the clip used to hold the flap closed. Dont forget to clean the loose plastic off the lid surround and vacuum out the air box.
Another shot of the airbox so you can clearly see the flap, and heater core location.
Most replacement evaporators from the auto parts store wont come with the foam installed, carefully peel it off and install it on the new one. I used a small amount of spray adhesive to ensure it would stay in place during installation.
This step is by far the hardest part, DO NOT FORCE the evaporator core into place. If you can have a helper hold the dash away some from the airbox while you fiddle with the evaporator core do so. I did not have any help so i just took my time, after some finagling it slide right in.
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Nice job!
grab a brew, kick buzz saw off the couch and put your feet up for a few minutes.
she will walk over to ya, bend down real close to your ear and whisper
'take a shower, you stink'
grab a brew, kick buzz saw off the couch and put your feet up for a few minutes.
she will walk over to ya, bend down real close to your ear and whisper
'take a shower, you stink'
I will have to finish the explanations tomorrow, i am tired! i went and did a small side job today and put the car back together....
have you seen what that "hole" looks like in 50% of the cars that are pictured here? Two dead heater core nipples hanging out with no heater hoses attached, and two threaded stumps hanging out of the firewall that used to go to an A/C compressor. How much more ugly can it get? Even when all of that sht is hooked up, it's still an eyesore. A well done access panel with symmetrical fasteners (think like Nik's hood scoop) is by far the lesser of two evils.