Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

[Habu135]

Mounted the oil catch can. Text drive complete and no more spewing oil.

Decided to go with the larger 12 AN fitting equipped Catch Can as I figured the larger fitting would aid in greater breathing. The limiting factor though is really the rubber tubing running from the PCV port to the catch can.

So, in the rear (traditional PCV) port area I added the missing screen, the rubber grommet, a 1/2" to 3/8" brass fitting spray painted black to blend in and then tubing to the catch can. On the passenger's side valve cover I did the same 1/2" to 3/8" brass fitting, rubber grommet to tubing to the other side of oil catch can. 14 AN fittings complete the securing of the rubber tubing and had to be purchased separately as the catch can did not come with them.

The problem I ran into was that I had to utilize a socket to screw in the brass fitting as it was so tight against the rubber grommet and PCV port(s).

I also used Rock Auto to purchase the screen as everywhere else was outrageously expensive. The Moroso Catch Can was purchased from Summit, and the brass fittings from my local hardware store.

 

[Habu135]

I'm continuing to work all the bugs out of my car. The current one is the oil pressure gauge within the instrument cluster doesn't work. I tried replacing the circuit board. No change. If I unscrew the wire to the top of the sending unit and ground it the needle moves. Does that indicate a bad sending unit? I can't think of anything else.

 

[General karthief]

That's the way it was done in 'the old days', ground the sending unit wire to the intake, needle sweeps to H. Now I don't know if the gauges are done differently and that may not work anymore, sending units used to be cheap.

 

[Habu135]

Damn car. You fix one thing and something else breaks. Unbelievable

 

[Mustang5L5]

That;s what makes it "fun"

 

[Habu135]

Ok. So the car and I are back on speaking terms as I fixed the inoperative oil pressure gauge needle.

I'm looking at it today talking to myself and I'm saying that it has to be electric related. All the instrument cluster wires are plugged in and the needle jumps when grounded. Then I remember with the old engine setup there were two wires that ran from the oil pressure sender. So I grab a spare wire and ground it and touch the top of the sender and BOOM the gauge comes alive. So I added a eyelit to one end and ran it to the side of the firewall. Incredible. Oh, and the left blinker that wasn't working for some odd reason also fixed itself.

I suppose I'll keep her around a while longer and dump some more money into her.

 

[General karthief]

Is the ground wire from the back of the drivers side head to the firewall present?

 

[Habu135]

Is the ground wire from the back of the drivers side head to the firewall present?

Yes, but the LMR sending unit is plastic per the description.

"Durable plastic construction"

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-PS243/1990-93-Oil-Pressure-Sending-Unit-50L

 

[Habu135]

Time and money. That's "all" it takes. Oh, and a lot of persistence.

 

[Habu135]

 

[95BlueStallion]

I'm with ya man. Just built a Dart based 363, and put a TKX behind it. There were several little hiccups to get it going. I'm still working on my tune for driveability, as my Ed Curtis cam is rowdy. I've had moments of "why didn't I just buy X," or "why didn't I do X?" As it's started to get closer to "right" I am learning to enjoy it like I thought I would.

 

[Habu135]

I'm with ya man. Just built a Dart based 363, and put a TKX behind it. There were several little hiccups to get it going. I'm still working on my tune for driveability, as my Ed Curtis cam is rowdy. I've had moments of "why didn't I just buy X," or "why didn't I do X?" As it's started to get closer to "right" I am learning to enjoy it like I thought I would.

My recent engine and transmission project was quite pricey, but it's now essentially an amusement park ride on wheels and is constantly bringing a smile to my face and my young sons. And that makes it worth it.

 

[Habu135]

So I figured out the issue causing my new Ford Performance Z2363 engine to barf out oil at high rpm. The dipstick that this engine came with is a universal dipstick. Meaning, its current position is not the correct length to give an accurate 7 quart reading. I learned this after changing the oil this past weekend and checking the oil quantity at both the 6 and then 7 quart level. Both times the dipstick did not indicate any oil in the engine. I called Ford today and was advised the dip stick is universal and the shaft holding the dipstick needs to be trimmed down length wise for this application. I suspect my mechanic continued to add oil until the dipstick indicated full when in reality it was overfilled and likely had 9 or 10 quarts of oil. I asked FRPP to add a line in the instructions as the fault clearly lies with them.