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Discussion in '2005 - 2009 Specific Tech' started by cleveland, Jul 11, 2005.
How is it upside down? No direction is up.
good pic there cleveland !. dyno shots are the next on the list,, have fun and be safe ;-)
Nitrous Oxide in your bottle is in a liquid state, therefore the nitrous is on the bottom of the bottle. So flip your bottle warmer heating pad so that it is wrapped around the bottom (side facing down) of the bottle and is heating up the nitrous instead of the air. Works quicker.
Thank you for clearing that up.
One more thing... Do you think I'll have any pickup issues with the bottle mounted in the way that it is? I suppose I could still mount it with the valve facing forward in the vehicle but I'd rather leave it be.
Here is the corrected position of the heater element on the bottle.
And I used the black bracket already in place on the driverside tower to mount each of the solenoids; nitrous/purge and fuel. I finally had to get creative and bent the mounting brackets to be usefull at all.
I'll start on the wiring again later today. Until then.
That looks sweet! The bottle position is fine. I actualy run mine behind my drivers seat so my right hand is my remote bottle opener.
Thanks for the response Long Stroke I just needed a confirmation of the "okayness".
Not much in the updates department for the last day but I did run the heater wiring from the trunk to the firewall. I also used some angled 1" x 2" blocks of wood to space the holddown hardware off the trunk floor so it wouldnt "jingle all the way" anymore.
Hopefully this Monday my fuel solenoid AN fitting, TPS and Fuel Rail adapter arrive by way of Fedex so I can finish wiring this sucker together so I can then worry about getting it tuned.
so since thats a wet kit I presume no retune needed?
I wouldnt dare run it without the air/fuel ratio being monitored first. Thats why Im having the vehicle dyno tuned before I do anything else.
Im going to be throwing back on the stock airbox assembly to bring it back to "normal" so I can get a baseline.
Everything has finally been wired but I need to test if the Fuel and Nitrous Solenoids work under WOT only. The Purge works and the Bottle Heater activates as soon as I switch the 3 way toggle to the on position.
I'll take some detailed pictures of the wiring under the hood, switch panel (when painted) and another pic of the trunk.
Looks good! NX is the best kit out there, my buddy had ZEX on his 97 GT and it sucked dog nuts. Keep the pics rolling!!! There are also some super sweet billet bottle mounting brackets made by some company in Texas I think and they would really church up the look.
This is where the Purge will eventually shoot, just like a snorting horse. I had to order a 3 AN T fitting to split the steel braided nylon hose and I'll be picking that up and also a 3 AN 1/8" Steel fitting for the Purge Solenoid tomorrow to complete the circuit.
My missing 4 AN 1/8" fitting still hasnt arrived so I havent finished installing the supply line from the Zex 05 GT Fuel Rail Adapter to the Fuel Solenoid. Hopefully tom. :crosses fingers:
This is the Zex TPS that I decided to use since I had to order the Fuel Rail Adapter from them anyways. Its programed by the touch of a button instead of NX's set screw.
And lastly, here is the custom switch panel that I finally painted. The black booted toggle operates both system standby/bottle heater and the Purge Solenoid. The red covered switch is the "Go-Baby-Go" after WOT and 3500+rpm are both achieved.
For those of you who have the Zex TPS, how did you go about programming it correctly and do you actually hear the solenoid click at full throttle when the key is in the ON position.
I have used them on my race cars in the past. You connect the white wire from the ZEX TPS Switch to the yellow TPS wire on the '05 Mustangs throttle body. Turn on the ignition, engine off, arm the nitrous system (i.e. apply power to the tps switch), depress and then release the programming push-button. Observe the LED, it should be solid red, indicating it is in learn mode. Depress the accelerator pedal for ten seconds, release. The LED should be flashing from red to green to off, this informs you that the program has been accepted. Turn off the arming switch, turn back on......and from that point on, your solenoids will click at WOT.
I wish that was the case that they did click because @ WOT I dont hear a peep from them. Im going to do some eletrical testing now to see if I can just bypass the switches and give them direct power. Im a wiz when it comes to wiring so this is pissing me off that I cant get them to click.
cleveland that looks awsome!.. make sure you take a pic with the blast of gas from the front.. ahha..
Okay, I think I've got a problem with the Zex TPS. The 2 green wires that are suppposed to connect and provide power to the solenoids @ full throttle (through the relay first though) dont even power a 12v electrical tester (with bulb). Basically, I used the aligator clip end of my tester on 1 of the 2 green wires and I grounded the sharp end of the tester to the battery ground and nothing lit @ WOT. This leads me to believe that there is no issue caused by my wrong doing but that the TPS is to blame.
My question to ask is... To those of you with Zex nitrous kits for your 05 GTs, can you please test that the green wire on the TPS can power a 12v tester when grounded? That would be great if someone could do this so I can move on and hurry up with getting this system activated for dyno tuning/drag this next Friday or Saturday.
Much appreciated cause Im very much annoyed.
I switched the position of the bottle in the trunk btw and I finally finished the entire purge line assembly. The fitting for the Fuel Solenoid still hasnt arrived so I havent installed the Fuel Rail Adapter yet.
Well, the 2 green wires are supposed to be 12v negative lines (ground) to the solenoids so I rewired a bit and I can makes the 'noids click but only by bypassing the relay. The relay is now the issue but Im not sure how to wire that. The white wire is now the ground and the black is 12v power. I thought about just switching those two around but Im not quite sure if that will do anything. Im lost till tomorrow morning I guess.
Okay, the corrected wiring for the Bueler 40/50 Amp Relay, which is provided for by Nitrous Express, is to switch the black (originally meant to be +12v) to ground and the white (originally meant to ground or to wire the Fuel Pressure Safety Switch) to the Positive Battery Terminal. This makes sense because the Zex TPS had switched wiring for the main green wires from +12v to ground when compared to the NX TPS.
I did find an instruction manual that at least shows the zex wiring diagram with relay prior to the Fuel and Nitrous Solenoids.
The important thing is that I finally solved my issue and the solenoids now click at WOT.
I'll go get my bottle filled later today so I can continue on to test for leaks.