Electrical Electric Fan Choices

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 90lxwhite, Nov 4, 2013.

  1. Hey, just read the link you posted from Mopar mag, thanks. Yo, this fan is cooler than I thought. Mike, you seem knowledgeable, know anyone that's installed one of these Delta PAG fans?
  2. If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using an electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator on 86-93 Mustangs isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car. If you have a 94 or later Mustang, the stock 3g alternator should be fine if it is working correctly.

    Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.

    The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. www.dccontrol.com. Cost is about $???. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.

    Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$120 See http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?html=pwmv3. eBay will have the controllers for a bargain price: do a Google search and see what you find.

    At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.

    Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30+amps and you need to use #10 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.

    If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.


    Note that the temp sensor in the diagram needs to match the thermostat in your engine. The preferred arrangement is to have it open about 5 degrees above the thermostat.

    To allow the ignition switch to control the fan so that it does not run when the ignition is off, connect the relay contact #86 to the red/green wire on the ignition coil or to the red/yellow wire on the coolant level sensor.

    If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is similar in function to the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
    See my post at http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-sooo-much-amperage-help.859590/#post-8645840 to get the drawings and full details.

    Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

    Tee adapter info:
    Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

  3. Wow, that alot of info, thanks jrichker for posting! I got a 66 mustang with alot of mods and a good stereo system. Yea, you're right about amp draw and I have an 100amp alternator now. Those startup power spikes will kill my 100amp alternator really quick. Do you know anything about these Delta PAG "brushless" fans? They claim only 16amp draw at 2,800CFM with soft-start operation. Any point of view will be appreciated. I'm going to call them on monday, have any good questions?
  4. Sorry, no experience with other than Ford OEM fans.
  5. I hear good things from this install. I put on a Black Magic 2800cfm one and it works well too.
  6. Here is my Black Magic 175, believe it's pulls 2800cfm. Simple install, two bolt brackets up top and two down low.

    #27 Grabbin' Asphalt, Feb 12, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014
  7. I grabbed a fan out of a Nissan Quest minivan. Fits the stock radiator nicely
  8. Use a DC Controller and forget all that mess: http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm
  9. Agreed, DCC Controller here!
  10. DC Controller? What? I dont agree. Its $150 for just the controller, it doesn't have soft-start, you cant digitally adjust temp settings or speed of the fan. And it doesnt run brushless fans. Anywho, already bit the bullet on the Delta PAG 16" Kit for $350. I think its better than piecemealing together old technology. Its one month back-ordered so I'll report once I get it.

    Delta PAG vs DC Controller:
  11. I don't know about these guys... I put an order in, waited almost three months, contacted with no response numerous times, then did a dispute through paypal to get my money back. I got my money back but still never heard from anyone at the company.

  12. I'd heard of these kinds of issues with DCC before. I've got two that I bought from people right here on SN through the classifieds. One of them I have installed. The other is going in my 89. So I cannot attest to how responsive the company is, first hand.
  13. Brian Baskins over on the Corral is the owner, maker, etc of the DCC controllers. His customer service is known to be sub par to say the least. I have always gotten quick respinses and good technical help from him, mostly through pm's.

    You mention that digital unit is on about a 1 month backorder. Sounds like the same thing with DCC
  14. Is it advisable to use a surge dampener diode even if you are using a store bought controller like the Hayden Automotive 3653 Economy Adjustable Thermostatic Fan Control?:

  15. I don't know what is in the Haden controller, it may or may not already have a diode to dampen the electrical surge. Adding one is cheap insurance - less than $2 and not hard to do. Look closely at the diagram I posted and you will find out how to do it.
    #37 jrichker, Jul 26, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
    DuderMcMerican likes this.
  16. Okay, will do. Thanks!
  17. well I hope that fan is the shiz... brushless is good tech but there is a reason why the OEM build the way they do... cuz it works.
    I use a Lincoln MKVIII fan in my car, low speed will cool my supercharged monster down very quickly. the high speed setting pulls in small children and pets so I don't use it.... both fan speeds are controlled by my MS system and some properly wired relays. simply doing a 3g alternator upgrade from an sn95 [130a] will run the fan.

    MKVIII fan specs. cost [ jy I paid 30$]
    single speed fan flows 4k cfm
    dual speed fan flows 3kcfm low speed and up to 5k high speed.
    90sickfox and grnhays like this.
  18. Not sure what you're saying, a91.:scratch: This is due to my ignorance, not that what you said doesn't make sense.

    Here's my fan backstory:
    - I'm upgrading to a 3g alt because my 2g is on its way out. It has trouble keeping my battery within range, and my windows, etc. clearly put strain the system--especially when driving at night with the headlights and stereo on. Also, northern Virginny has entirely too many people, so I spend a lot of time sitting in traffic.
    - Because I'm doing the alt upgrade, I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to do the fan, too. The car isn't overheating, but the old fan is cracked, rubs the shroud, looks like hell, etc. Although it's not overheating, I am paranoid about it this time of year because northern Virginny heat is stifling. Figured the fan upgrade would give peace of mind, not to mention a few extra HP from what I understand.
    - I pulled a nice dual fan off a '00 Contour this weekend while I was at the JY and am planning to do the alt/fan install this weekend when I make a trip up north to visit my dad.

    Would you consider the '00 Contour fan to be the shiz?

    Is there reason I shouldn't go ahead with the fan upgrade when I do the alt? It seems that you're saying OEM is the way to go.

    Good to know re using the low speed setting. I have read others who wired it up to use the high-speed, but I imagine that this can cool the radiator/engine TOO much, yes?

    Newb question: What's an MS system?

    Thanks for clarification!:flag: