Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

Casper93Fox

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Steve, finallly got to try out the new revamped tune. Had an issue with the FPR. Purchased a Aeroquip and set it to 39psi. Helped the idle and running issue. Still have the cold start issue. Cannot seem to get it right. Did some driving and 1,2,3 gear runs. Looks a little lean right off throttle but not bad. I have attached the cold start and driving datalogs.Thanks for the help.
 

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a91what

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Steve, finallly got to try out the new revamped tune. Had an issue with the FPR. Purchased a Aeroquip and set it to 39psi. Helped the idle and running issue. Still have the cold start issue. Cannot seem to get it right. Did some driving and 1,2,3 gear runs. Looks a little lean right off throttle but not bad. I have attached the cold start and driving datalogs.Thanks for the help.
Here is a revamped fuel table, It looks like you may have some noise on the tps sensor make sure there are no plug wires near the harness and that the sensor is in good condition.
 

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Casper93Fox

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Thanks for the advice Steve. I saw what I thought was fluctuations but thought it was normal as I have little experience with normal. Funny thing with the cold idle I started it up and worked very well until it hit 155Deg and then the idle surged to 2K and stayed there.
The TPS is brand new but I did re-route my TFI harness to that side past that harness. But everything was shielded when I buttoned up the extension with wrap. I think I need to check my 10 pin connectors for corrosion. It was a used harness and did sit for a while. could be part of my idle problem with the IAC and it not getting a good connection.
Will let you know what happens. How's the blower coming? some here think you are a little crazy for doing that it seems like. Send me a vid of it running if you get a chance. would love to hear it.
later.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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My car did the same thing in idle... I believe Steve inverted the IAC for me. Sounds like your cold start idle up may be backwards. It should start higher and come down as you warm up. That drove me nuts at first.

Don't live by my advice on this subject. I'm still learning....
 

a91what

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I actually drove the car around the block for the first time tonight. For a complete mess of a tune it ran well enough to get me home. I need to drop some fuel in the tank to take it any further. Stupid stupid rich, lol 9-10afr when accelerating.. I already redid the fuel table for tomorrow removed 17% from the accel area of the table should net me a 12-12.3 AFR...

So rich it was causing a miss...lol it's easier to change plugs than swap pistons.:nice:
 

Casper93Fox

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Nov 28, 2017
34
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Dallas
My car did the same thing in idle... I believe Steve inverted the IAC for me. Sounds like your cold start idle up may be backwards. It should start higher and come down as you warm up. That drove me nuts at first.

Don't live by my advice on this subject. I'm still learning....
Sick fox thanks for the response. I have tried that. still cannot get it to start and idle at all with it reversed. So I do thing the normal setting is on the right track. I think the duty cycle % in very touchy. Has to be real close to the correct setting or it will just not work. Glad yours is running well. Patience with this will finally get it set up.
 

Casper93Fox

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Nov 28, 2017
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Dallas
I actually drove the car around the block for the first time tonight. For a complete mess of a tune it ran well enough to get me home. I need to drop some fuel in the tank to take it any further. Stupid stupid rich, lol 9-10afr when accelerating.. I already redid the fuel table for tomorrow removed 17% from the accel area of the table should net me a 12-12.3 AFR...

So rich it was causing a miss...lol it's easier to change plugs than swap pistons.:nice:
Very cool. Always feels good to finally get to drive your hard work. Yea 9-10 is puffin black smoke out the tail. LOL. we call it sending smoke signals. Glad when you put fuel in your tank it stays there. Filled mine up and it started leaking out of the sending unit area of the tank. Looks like I will be pulling the tank on Thursday. Last of the old gaskets on the car. Will replace the filler neck gasket also.
Yup not piston swaps in the future for anyone I hope. That is the ultimate FUBAR.
 

90sickfox

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Sick fox thanks for the response. I have tried that. still cannot get it to start and idle at all with it reversed. So I do thing the normal setting is on the right track. I think the duty cycle % in very touchy. Has to be real close to the correct setting or it will just not work. Glad yours is running well. Patience with this will finally get it set up.
My car runs, drives and idles but there's still a lot of work to do. Its not where it needs to be. My time is just jacked up this time of year.

I had to go through a bunch of stuff. Steve walked me through it. I had to reverse the IAC and adjust my idle screw open until it would idle. You could pull the IAC off and look at it when you turn the key on with the car cold. It should open up. If it doesn't then reverse it and watch it.

My car used to do it but you could have a completely different issue.

I'm very new at MS. Just trying to help any way I can. I'm sure Steve will chime in again at some point soon.

I'm learning....slowly...
 

Pat Krum

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Yeah, no sht. He told me he never offered me the 351 now.

I'm going to lose on this deal, no doubt. I'm keeping Doby though. Too much effort there and new parts. I will somehow get him the money and cut off that part of my family. Enough.

So I've got a hardon for a 351 now......time to look at craig's list.
 

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a91what

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Yes, load a stock tune. It will start the car.

Do you have any experience with standalone ecu? Are you familiar with the basics of tuning?
 

stanglx2002

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I thought I would post this here to see if I could get some help from some smarter people than me.

I have been doing alot of research trying to get ready for swapping out my current AOD to a 4R70W transmission in my mustang. One of the features I would like to incorporate is the use of Paddle Shifters. After reading the brief section of the manual http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Tra ... l-1.0.html (6.3.2.7 Paddle Shifter) it brings up using the "horn" as the output, which makes me assume that I would be using the current horn wiring for both the paddle shifter (Up/down) and the horn.

After searching, I didn't find the need wiring diagram as to how to make this all work. I do understand that I need to breakup the horn wiring of 5v(?)/ground into 3 separate volts: Up, Down, Out (Horn).

Couple questions I have now:
1. If I take the 5V from the microsquirt's Vref, how do I get it up the steering column (Are my below thoughts correct)?
- I would be cutting the existing horn wire in half
+ Half that goes up the steering column goes to Vref on the microsquirt (if you can tell me which pin that would be awesome)
+ Half that goes to the horn goes to an output on the microsquirt (if you can tell me which pin that would be awesome)

2. If I do the above, I assume I will need to setup a voltage divider with resistors (Like my diagram above) to breakup the single Vref voltage into 3 different voltages upshift, downshift, horn?

3. Is it ok to use a single ground spot for all three (upshift, downshift, horn) in the steering column?

Sorry for not understanding as wiring is definitely a weak point for me. You have to talk to me like a 5 Year Old Child when it comes to is kind of stuff. I don't understand wiring very well, so any help would be appreciated.
 

90sickfox

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I thought I would post this here to see if I could get some help from some smarter people than me.

I have been doing alot of research trying to get ready for swapping out my current AOD to a 4R70W transmission in my mustang. One of the features I would like to incorporate is the use of Paddle Shifters. After reading the brief section of the manual http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Tra ... l-1.0.html (6.3.2.7 Paddle Shifter) it brings up using the "horn" as the output, which makes me assume that I would be using the current horn wiring for both the paddle shifter (Up/down) and the horn.

After searching, I didn't find the need wiring diagram as to how to make this all work. I do understand that I need to breakup the horn wiring of 5v(?)/ground into 3 separate volts: Up, Down, Out (Horn).

Couple questions I have now:
1. If I take the 5V from the microsquirt's Vref, how do I get it up the steering column (Are my below thoughts correct)?
- I would be cutting the existing horn wire in half
+ Half that goes up the steering column goes to Vref on the microsquirt (if you can tell me which pin that would be awesome)
+ Half that goes to the horn goes to an output on the microsquirt (if you can tell me which pin that would be awesome)

2. If I do the above, I assume I will need to setup a voltage divider with resistors (Like my diagram above) to breakup the single Vref voltage into 3 different voltages upshift, downshift, horn?

3. Is it ok to use a single ground spot for all three (upshift, downshift, horn) in the steering column?

Sorry for not understanding as wiring is definitely a weak point for me. You have to talk to me like a 5 Year Old Child when it comes to is kind of stuff. I don't understand wiring very well, so any help would be appreciated.
I don't know a lot about what you're trying to do....but on my 88 the horn is 12v. It stays hot at all times. The horn pad is a switch that sends the 12v lead sending power to the horns.

All the paddle shifters I work with at work are 5v reference. I've heard of guys running a 5v feed wire to the cruise control buttons on stock steering wheels for certain inputs/outputs.

Seems like you could easily take a 5v from MS and cut the 12v feed wire at the CC switches....then they'll switch 5v to the controller.

Its been a very long time since I had a stock steering wheel. The horn and CC switches use the same wire to feed power to them. If you wired a relay you could keep horn function. The relay would have fused 12v battery power, chassis ground, another ground, and the trigger would be the 5v now coming from the horn.

The actual control of the switches through MS will be left for you and Steve to solve. That stuff is still a little over my head.
 

a91what

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The only way I can see this working is if you can somehow separate the signal from both buttons. I don't think this can be done in it's current configuration... you may have to sacrifice some kind of function on the wheel such as cruise control to repurpose the wiring.

Without knowing what kind of input you need for this I suggest trying to use a low input (ground) rather than a 5v or 12v input.
 
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a91what

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That is what I am trying to figure out how to do is split the signal 3 ways through the horn wiring, since that is what the manual says to do.

Here is some more information if you guys can help me figure out as this is foreign language to me: http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/mshift/voltshift.html

This is also from the manual:
upload_2018-1-12_8-54-40.png
I see now, it's allowing you to set your own parameters on the horn output wire from the wheel. It appears to be on one signal wire meaning you can use 12v to each button then use a voltage drop to make each one have a different return voltage. The simple way I think would be to use a simple resistor of different values on each button so when each is pushed individually they send different voltages down the signal wire. This would be your up/down signal voltages. Then record the voltage when both buttons are pressed this will trigger the horn.

Now VD thru a resistor is simple to figure out VD=IxR or current*resistance I'm not certain the input on the microsquirt will have any kind of a measurable load so you may need to play around with different configurations to make this work.

Also it appears that the wiring will no longer go from the button to the horn, the microsquirt will trigger an output to the horn.

There are more than one way to get this done this is just my take on it from the light reading I did
 
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stanglx2002

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I see now, it's allowing you to set your own parameters on the horn output wire from the wheel. It appears to be on one signal wire meaning you can use 12v to each button then use a voltage drop to make each one have a different return voltage. The simple way I think would be to use a simple resistor of different values on each button so when each is pushed individually they send different voltages down the signal wire. This would be your up/down signal voltages. Then record the voltage when both buttons are pressed this will trigger the horn.

Now VD thru a resistor is simple to figure out VD=IxR or current*resistance I'm not certain the input on the microsquirt will have any kind of a measurable load so you may need to play around with different configurations to make this work.

Also it appears that the wiring will no longer go from the button to the horn, the microsquirt will trigger an output to the horn.

There are more than one way to get this done this is just my take on it from the light reading I did
So do i follow this diagram then?

volt_shifter.gif


I understand the wiring of a voltage divider in the steering wheel that goes to each paddle shifter and the horn.

What I still don't understand is the how the microsquirt will be triggering the horn only when pushed? According the the above diagram, it looks like the horn go off anytime a paddle shifter is pushed or the horn button? What would stop it as it is only "T" to the microsquirt?
 

a91what

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So do i follow this diagram then?

volt_shifter.gif


I understand the wiring of a voltage divider in the steering wheel that goes to each paddle shifter and the horn.

What I still don't understand is the how the microsquirt will be triggering the horn only when pushed? According the the above diagram, it looks like the horn go off anytime a paddle shifter is pushed or the horn button? What would stop it as it is only "T" to the microsquirt?
The microsquirt is simply looking for the voltage on the line, notice in the program it shows 3 voltage selections up down and horn. The source will not have the correct voltage for the horn untill both buttons are pressed, then it will trigger the horn output.
You will have to figure out the voltage for each button with a DMM then plug those values into tunerstudio for the switchpoints.
 

Mustang5L5

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Quick question. How much rewiring of the OEM harness is needed for the MS3? Does it install in place of the factory ECU or am I pretty much doing a total rewire?
 

stanglx2002

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The microsquirt is simply looking for the voltage on the line, notice in the program it shows 3 voltage selections up down and horn. The source will not have the correct voltage for the horn untill both buttons are pressed, then it will trigger the horn output.
You will have to figure out the voltage for each button with a DMM then plug those values into tunerstudio for the switchpoints.
I thank you for all your help so far. I am sorry for being so dense, but I still dont understand the wiring to the microsquirt itself. I understand the usage of resistors at different ohms to divide the supply voltage to give different voltages based on which switch is being pushed Up, Down, or Horn. That makes total sense to me, that you would need push each switch individually to get the voltage going to the microsquirt and input that into the Paddle Shifter entry screen in Turnerstudio.

Reading more on the megashift manual sense it has more info then transmission control manual does. It recommends to use a 5V supply as it will be more stable voltage supply.

Below I am still confused:
1. 5V Vref from microsquirt - Which wire is that? Everyone just says to just use it from the microsquirt, but Im not see which wire that is
2. If I cut the existing horn wire in half
+ Half that goes up the steering column goes to the 5V Vref on the microsquirt
+ Other half that goes to the horn goes to an output on the microsquirt (if you can tell me which pin that would be awesome)

@a91what
 
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