Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

a91what

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Just take your time, I mentioned the trigger wizard before that is what helps you get TS and your mechanical timing lined up right. The ms can only do its thing once all parameters match up.
 
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hoopty5.0

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Got it fixed. It runs better than the a9l did. I'm so happy I can hardly stand it.
 
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hoopty5.0

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I got it pretty well dialed in. Idles at 750, cruises well, decel is not too lean anymore. Little too much timing at WOT, but that's an easy fix. Here's the latest and greatest with a short datalog.
 

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a91what

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I got it pretty well dialed in. Idles at 750, cruises well, decel is not too lean anymore. Little too much timing at WOT, but that's an easy fix. Here's the latest and greatest with a short datalog.
You can set up overrun fuel cut, in the fuel settings during high rpm decel it will just cut all fuel. much safer IMO.
 

hoopty5.0

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You can set up overrun fuel cut, in the fuel settings during high rpm decel it will just cut all fuel. much safer IMO.
Good to know. Can you explain the differences between open and closed loop idle control and what I should be using?
 

a91what

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open loop idle control is what you are using now. it sets the iac to work as warm up valve, in the idle control settings the warmup duty settings can adjusted more duty raises the idle less lowers it.
Closed loop idle is a MF to get set right I'm still fighting mine now, the idle will be adjusted by the iac based on PID settings. Now not everyone will have an issue using CL idle my cam is very choppy. CL will adjust to most conditions and does not require you to add in an idle up circuit for large loads like when the AC is turned on or a large electric fan.

if the open loop idles great and does not require throttle to keep the car running with a load, by all means use that. The adaptive idle control you have set up in your tune to raise the timing when the rpm starts to fall will help keep it from stalling.

IMO open loop is much much easier to tune and I may very well be using here in the future.
 
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hoopty5.0

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Good to know, thanks. I switched on the A/C today and it definitely didn't like that at all.

I had to unplug the IAC earlier though. it was sounding like a fog horn and idled up to 1100 rpm once the car got warm. I'll have to mess with that tomorrow.
 

a91what

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Good to know, thanks. I switched on the A/C today and it definitely didn't like that at all.

I had to unplug the IAC earlier though. it was sounding like a fog horn and idled up to 1100 rpm once the car got warm. I'll have to mess with that tomorrow.
make sure that the iac is in good condition, set the frequency on the iac to a higher number they don't like low speed oscilation when used in warmup I like 153hz maybe more. you may need to go into the warmup valve settings and lower the duty cycle from 30% down 5% at a time till you reach target. at some point lowering the duty cycle will result in no change in idle speed this is the lowest you can safely set the duty cycle.
 
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hoopty5.0

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make sure that the iac is in good condition, set the frequency on the iac to a higher number they don't like low speed oscilation when used in warmup I like 153hz maybe more. you may need to go into the warmup valve settings and lower the duty cycle from 30% down 5% at a time till you reach target. at some point lowering the duty cycle will result in no change in idle speed this is the lowest you can safely set the duty cycle.
Oh, ok. I had it set to 63 because that's what the help note int TS recommended. I'll crank it up.
 

addermk2

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I can probably be of some help here as well... just tag me in your questions
 
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hoopty5.0

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Info on how to delete a distributor for COP


. As far as the cam sync for sequential injection, I used the Price Motorsports option, but you can combine parts from a 3.8L V6 (Windstar van or similar) and the Explorer 5.0 cam sync. You need the housing from the 5.0 and the shaft from the 3.8 for the 351W. The 351W cam sync will also fit 351C, 351M, and 400M engines too.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1802946-351w-efi-swap-crank-trigger.html

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0...talk-distributorless-crank-triggers-such.html

You definitely want to have a press handy to be able to do it easily. But yes other than that it's a direct drop in. The 5.0 and 5.8 blocks are the same in the distributor area. Common misconception is that the 5.8 needs a longer shaft because of the taller deck height. This is not the case. The 5.8 just happens to have a larger pump drive hex.
 
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LarsD

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This is a really interesting thread. Making me want MS for my LX as I was not happy with QH so I removed it. Been running on the stock A9L ever since.
 

hoopty5.0

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This is a really interesting thread. Making me want MS for my LX as I was not happy with QH so I removed it. Been running on the stock A9L ever since.
Do it! I loved mine before I pulled the engine. Have you exorcised all the other demons in your motor?
 

LarsD

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Do it! I loved mine before I pulled the engine. Have you exorcised all the other demons in your motor?

I sure hope so. I was having that random dying problem. It looks like it was a combination of a bad 3G alternator + underdrive pulleys that were slowly killing my Redtop batteries.
 

a91what

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Ouch. If you do the ms swap, we are here to help. I can walk you thru the software and get you setup. Before you decide download the tunerstudio program and look thru it it's free.